kernowsvenski
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What have you done to your Freelander today
- Thread starter Freelaner
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kernowsvenski
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Might be worth getting it shot blasted and painted. You may make a bit on it. I paid £100 for a second hand FL1 one and it was blasted, zinc primed and sprayed for £80Oh - and I tidied up the old subframe that I removed from the F2.
I’ve treated it and resprayed it, ready for listing on the Bay of E. I figure it’s ideal if someone doesn’t want to go to the expense of forking out for new parts. Looking at some of the salvage subframes listed on there, which are unprepared, I’d say it’s good.
If anyone is interested, drop me a pm. Would rather it went cheaper to an enthusiast who can make good use of it
kernowsvenski
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I will be feeding back to the suppliers for sure.
There's only one area of concern on the subframe, which I'd be able to repair invisibly. The rest is really very solid. There are plenty of rust traps in the design, which if going to make one last forever, would need blocking with welded in sections.
The whole assembly has been made to be manufactured at a minimum cost, rather than to I long lasting standard. But that's how mass production keeps costs down.
The jack is a few years old now. I bought it when I bought my FL2, as I needed something with a wide base and a high lift.
Yes, funny you say that…
Such a difference with a larger jack and jack-head.Still, my smaller (now spare) one did come in very handy for the recent subframe / diff jobs.
It was the height of the FL2 that prompted me to buy a better jack with a higher lift, plus my 30 year old one was beginning to allow the vehicle to slowly sink, which isn't exactly helpful, and wasn't high enough on full lift. Maybe I'll fix the old jack one day, but it's still ok for light loads, just not a whole car.Yes, funny you say that…
Still, my smaller (now spare) one did come in very handy for the recent subframe / diff jobs.
View attachment 329423
My 2nd one is ok… it’s only a few years old as I got it for the FL1. It has a good height, but I never really trusted it as it has a narrower body and smaller head. The F2, being heavier still, just necessitated a bigger tool. That was my excuse, anyway! I have a lot more trust in the new one.
There's one section that's not looking good. The rest is very solid.
Dar ran Dar ran
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That’s tasty 
kernowsvenski
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That went through an MOT!That’s tasty
Dar ran Dar ran
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You can understand the top bit being over looked but thats a dangerous defect and not exactly hard to see
kernowsvenski
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Yep. The hole on that rear face of the tube section was clear as day when I looked under the car and saw it, about a month or so after the MOT
Dar ran Dar ran
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Silver linings
I now have stopped kicking myself for not switching the rear end of mine “this summer “
It’s scabbed but definitely not rotten
I bet you a jam tart everyone is having a look under there’s after seeing that one
So good call
I now have stopped kicking myself for not switching the rear end of mine “this summer “
It’s scabbed but definitely not rotten
I bet you a jam tart everyone is having a look under there’s after seeing that one
So good call
Today I stripped the back cover off a replacement diff, to check the internals, and clean out any dirt.
Thankfully the replacement looks to be in good health, with minimal wear on the gear set. The residual oil was black, which is perfectly ok, much better than white or silvery oil.
I then sealed the back cover, and replaced the driveshaft seals, before mounting the diff in the shiny blue replacement subframe.
Thankfully the replacement looks to be in good health, with minimal wear on the gear set. The residual oil was black, which is perfectly ok, much better than white or silvery oil.
I then sealed the back cover, and replaced the driveshaft seals, before mounting the diff in the shiny blue replacement subframe.
Dar ran Dar ran
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Shiny 
GrumpyGel
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Good to see you back on LZ
GrumpyGel
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I know you've oriented them in different directions, but there's no way I'd get under a car supported by lumps of wood like that!
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