What have you done to your Freelander today

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Oh - and I tidied up the old subframe that I removed from the F2.
I’ve treated it and resprayed it, ready for listing on the Bay of E. I figure it’s ideal if someone doesn’t want to go to the expense of forking out for new parts. Looking at some of the salvage subframes listed on there, which are unprepared, I’d say it’s good.

If anyone is interested, drop me a pm. Would rather it went cheaper to an enthusiast who can make good use of it 😉
Might be worth getting it shot blasted and painted. You may make a bit on it. I paid £100 for a second hand FL1 one and it was blasted, zinc primed and sprayed for £80
 
I have fed back to the suppliers many times about the pad holes being in the wrong place.

I use a tank cutter to correctly position them. They overlap with the factory holes but it sits right then.

I think the pattern used for folding and drilling is wrong !!
I will be feeding back to the suppliers for sure.
 
I have to say, there is some stirling work going on on the FL1 @Nodge68. That subframe looks pretty solid for the most part!

*edit*

P.S. nice shiny new jack there!
There's only one area of concern on the subframe, which I'd be able to repair invisibly. The rest is really very solid. There are plenty of rust traps in the design, which if going to make one last forever, would need blocking with welded in sections.
The whole assembly has been made to be manufactured at a minimum cost, rather than to I long lasting standard. But that's how mass production keeps costs down.

The jack is a few years old now. I bought it when I bought my FL2, as I needed something with a wide base and a high lift.
 
I bought it when I bought my FL2, as I needed something with a wide base and a high lift.

Yes, funny you say that…😁 Such a difference with a larger jack and jack-head.
Still, my smaller (now spare) one did come in very handy for the recent subframe / diff jobs.

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Yes, funny you say that…😁 Such a difference with a larger jack and jack-head.
Still, my smaller (now spare) one did come in very handy for the recent subframe / diff jobs.

View attachment 329423
It was the height of the FL2 that prompted me to buy a better jack with a higher lift, plus my 30 year old one was beginning to allow the vehicle to slowly sink, which isn't exactly helpful, and wasn't high enough on full lift. Maybe I'll fix the old jack one day, but it's still ok for light loads, just not a whole car.
 
It was the height of the FL2 that prompted me to buy a better jack with a higher lift, plus my 30 year old one was beginning to allow the vehicle to slowly sink, which isn't exactly helpful, and wasn't high enough on full lift. Maybe I'll fix the old jack one day, but it's still ok for light loads, just not a whole car.
My 2nd one is ok… it’s only a few years old as I got it for the FL1. It has a good height, but I never really trusted it as it has a narrower body and smaller head. The F2, being heavier still, just necessitated a bigger tool. That was my excuse, anyway! I have a lot more trust in the new one.
 
Yep. The hole on that rear face of the tube section was clear as day when I looked under the car and saw it, about a month or so after the MOT
 
Silver linings
I now have stopped kicking myself for not switching the rear end of mine “this summer “
It’s scabbed but definitely not rotten
I bet you a jam tart everyone is having a look under there’s after seeing that one
So good call
 
Today I stripped the back cover off a replacement diff, to check the internals, and clean out any dirt.
Thankfully the replacement looks to be in good health, with minimal wear on the gear set. The residual oil was black, which is perfectly ok, much better than white or silvery oil.
20241108_111212.jpg

I then sealed the back cover, and replaced the driveshaft seals, before mounting the diff in the shiny blue replacement subframe.
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20241108_155823.jpg
 
Today I stripped the back cover off a replacement diff, to check the internals, and clean out any dirt.
Thankfully the replacement looks to be in good health, with minimal wear on the gear set. The residual oil was black, which is perfectly ok, much better than white or silvery oil.
View attachment 329693
I then sealed the back cover, and replaced the driveshaft seals, before mounting the diff in the shiny blue replacement subframe. View attachment 329694View attachment 329695
Looking good.
Someone will be happy 😉
 
Mot’d it (yesterday)
First one in over 10 years!
Strange driving it on the road again. When I brought it I didn’t have an iPhone. I repaired it with a Haynes manual. I drove listening to the radio and not bluetoothing to my phone.

How times have changed. It took me this to realise how different things are in the last 10 years
Good to see you back on LZ :D
 
Not today, but over the weekend, I removed the rear subframe/ suspension assembly, in readiness for a shiny replacement subframe, replacement rear diff, and reconditioned hub assemblies. I also replaced the tank cradle for a new one, although it's going to need some modification to make it fit the tank support pads correctly.
View attachment 329380View attachment 329381View attachment 329382View attachment 329383
I know you've oriented them in different directions, but there's no way I'd get under a car supported by lumps of wood like that!
 
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