Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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Dunno i'm guessing around 30mpg UK that is..
Other what have u done on ur disco today
- Thread starter gstuart
- Start date
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Thanks, just comparing, info that sort of thing just trying to get a Idea. Diesel or petrol
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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diesel
Dragonwalker
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Remember that US gallons are not the same volume.
I knows I searched the conversion chart
Dragonwalker
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Nice to see Thorapedia works ok
RogerStenning
Active Member
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Hmm. Although I got a good result at the end of things, Operations Discs & Pads did not go as planned...
The intent was to replace all the pads and discs for all four wheels, as I was getting a grinding noise, apparently from the rear nearside. THis, coupled with a visual inspection of the nearside rear disc, showing rough scoring in the outer edges of the disc, suggested to me there was a problem on that disc. So, easiest first, replace the front ones, where access is easier.
Wrong.
While the caliper, caliper guide pins, and pads, came out dead easy, the caliper carrier bolts, however, remain another story. They're still there. I spent most of yesterday trying to shift the blasted things, to no avail. I tend to the opinion that they're original installations, and the amount of rust around them would seem to confirm this. So, I gave up on replacing the disc (I have to go to work tomorrow, and this wagon's my daily drive), and jusdt replaced the pads. Since I couldn't do the disc on the offside front, I went to replace the pads only on the nearside, and this is where I got a surprise.
Removing the caliper on the nearside front required a lot of mucking about, and I found out after I'd removed the caliper just why: the screw holding the nearside brake disc in place was well bloody loose - I found this out because the disc wobbled in my hand. So, I removed screw (using only the bit from the screwdriver, it was less than finger tight!), cleaned out hole with an air duster, wire brushed the screw (which was FIIIIIIILTHY!), cleaned the brake disc again using a brake cleaning spray, and refitted the screw in the hole, finalising the thing with my impact driver. Having then fitted the replacement brake pads, guide pins, guide pin bolts, and the caliper itself, I then spun the hub a couple of times and lo and behold, minimal grinding!
Having remounted the wheels, I took the car on a test drive (up and down my street). The test drive produced no grinding whatsoever, even under the stress of a simulated emergency stop.
So, I never even had to mess about with the rear brakes, which was a plus!
So, the spares shelf in the garage is getting filled again. Now, I have a LOT of bolts, and four spare brake discs!
And, of course, a working wagon again
The intent was to replace all the pads and discs for all four wheels, as I was getting a grinding noise, apparently from the rear nearside. THis, coupled with a visual inspection of the nearside rear disc, showing rough scoring in the outer edges of the disc, suggested to me there was a problem on that disc. So, easiest first, replace the front ones, where access is easier.
Wrong.
While the caliper, caliper guide pins, and pads, came out dead easy, the caliper carrier bolts, however, remain another story. They're still there. I spent most of yesterday trying to shift the blasted things, to no avail. I tend to the opinion that they're original installations, and the amount of rust around them would seem to confirm this. So, I gave up on replacing the disc (I have to go to work tomorrow, and this wagon's my daily drive), and jusdt replaced the pads. Since I couldn't do the disc on the offside front, I went to replace the pads only on the nearside, and this is where I got a surprise.
Removing the caliper on the nearside front required a lot of mucking about, and I found out after I'd removed the caliper just why: the screw holding the nearside brake disc in place was well bloody loose - I found this out because the disc wobbled in my hand. So, I removed screw (using only the bit from the screwdriver, it was less than finger tight!), cleaned out hole with an air duster, wire brushed the screw (which was FIIIIIIILTHY!), cleaned the brake disc again using a brake cleaning spray, and refitted the screw in the hole, finalising the thing with my impact driver. Having then fitted the replacement brake pads, guide pins, guide pin bolts, and the caliper itself, I then spun the hub a couple of times and lo and behold, minimal grinding!
Having remounted the wheels, I took the car on a test drive (up and down my street). The test drive produced no grinding whatsoever, even under the stress of a simulated emergency stop.
So, I never even had to mess about with the rear brakes, which was a plus!
So, the spares shelf in the garage is getting filled again. Now, I have a LOT of bolts, and four spare brake discs!
And, of course, a working wagon again
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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A week ago i managed to paint my fuel tank cradle!
B4
Some Kurust and VHT black,
B4
Some Kurust and VHT black,
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Went to the main dealer to have some necessary work done. As my vehicle is still under a 1 year warranty, they tried to claim from LR but they declined the claim so I had to pay. BUT, when I went to collect the Disco the £485 bill was cancelled as 'a good will gesture' from my dealer!!!! I needed some smelling salts to bring me round!
JUKE179r
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I replaced the air filter on my V8's positive pressure leak detection system (NAS only).
Simple task. The old filter was trashed.
Simple task. The old filter was trashed.
JUKE179r
Well-Known Member
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Well, hopefully it will let me investigate the poor low down performance it has... Had a quick look last night and checked out a few values. MAF looks fine at 60 idle, rising into 300 plus on rev up. Need to take it for a spin but its currently blocked in, and Im on a job late morning, til this evening. So Sunday it is then...
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Sankey camping project arrived
Replaced the gearstick Bias plate and rubber gasket today. Pretty simple job, but time consuming. I'd watched a few youtube videos for a week before doing the job, so I knew what to do in advance. One thing I didnt account for was whoever replaced it before, had stripped the threads off the grarbox plate, and used a load of threadlocker to secure the bolts. There was enough grip to keep the plate tight but I guess I'll have to replace the top gearbox plate at some time. However, its done, and the stick isnt a floppy one now...
I can see how its a poor design, as the plate corrodes, due to the seal splitting, allowing water to ingress inside the workings. As you place the stick in 4th, its presses on the plate upright a little, causing stress. Then it breaks over time...
Next job, replace the clutch secondary cylinder, to see if I can stop the thing crunching unless I plant the clutch peddle into the carpet...
I can see how its a poor design, as the plate corrodes, due to the seal splitting, allowing water to ingress inside the workings. As you place the stick in 4th, its presses on the plate upright a little, causing stress. Then it breaks over time...
Next job, replace the clutch secondary cylinder, to see if I can stop the thing crunching unless I plant the clutch peddle into the carpet...
Shimsteriom
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How many miles left on the brake pads after the squeaky things starts doin' its thing?
Took the Disco for a drive today, with the Nanocom plugged in.... kept coming up with high temp warnings at 91-94c..... great.
Got it home to find the radiator was cold all over, apart from the inlet pipe. Hot air from the heater and a return flow to the header tank means the water pump is doing its stuff. Tried to do a bleed but the whole bleed assembly came out when undoing the nipple... great. Still, there was pressure and flow.
So, this week, I'll be off to Craddocks for a new top water hose, and a thermostat, hoping the head gasket isnt fecked.
Whats the cost to replace a head gasket these days... ??
Got it home to find the radiator was cold all over, apart from the inlet pipe. Hot air from the heater and a return flow to the header tank means the water pump is doing its stuff. Tried to do a bleed but the whole bleed assembly came out when undoing the nipple... great. Still, there was pressure and flow.
So, this week, I'll be off to Craddocks for a new top water hose, and a thermostat, hoping the head gasket isnt fecked.
Whats the cost to replace a head gasket these days... ??
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Depends on how hard you brake.
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weather conditions
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ambient temp
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how high you are above sea level
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or if you drive like a nobb
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usually bout a week
Shimsteriom
Master Procrastinator
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Best fit some new disks and pads thenDepends on how hard you brake.
.
.
.
weather conditions
.
.
.
ambient temp
.
.
.
how high you are above sea level
.
.
.
or if you drive like a nobb
.
.
.
usually bout a week
brianconwy
Well-Known Member
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I have seen sets on ebay with gasket and bolts for £87 but if you wanted genuine Land Rover you would be probably looking at doubling or trebling that price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DISCOVER...113278?hash=item33a526c3fe:g:WLEAAOSwmrlUx7pg
Just hope its something simpler like the thermostat.
