Other what have u done on ur disco today

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RogerStenning said:
I know where you mean - I used to work on the RAF side (as a civvy) back in the late eighties :)
Click to expand...

when the raf left biggin hill i got a tour, building after building

later on i returned to do all the oil central heating

raf bar was awesome, seeing all the memorabilia on the walls,
 
gstuart said:
if u ever need practice there's always mine , lol
Click to expand...

Heh. ten/ten for effort. zip/ten for effect ;) While you're relatively local, you're more likely to win the lottery! (certainly, better odds!) :p:D

brian47 said:
A couple of points regarding your recent service.
Your centrifugal filter housing looks like a previous owner has had trouble with the original bolt getting stuck and sheering off. It's an often repair, can't call it a common problem to drill the broken bolt remains out and secure the top of the housing with a small nut and bolt instead.
Click to expand...

Although most of us use WD-40 (not getting int o THAT argument!) or GT-85 (or even the holy of holies, PlusGas), when dealing with sticky nuts & bolts, it's always possible, I guess. There are tools for the job of shifting these burgered bolts if all else fails, but once I've got a few spares of the right size in, I think I'll try both metric and imperial size sockets, to see if I can't rock it out, after a liberal dosing with some decent penetrating oil.

brian47 said:
The main oil filter is a real PITA to replace, you need five wrists and three elbows on the same arm. I can't remember where I saw it, but I think I've seen a modification which extends the oil filter fitting to somewhere on the bulkhead or inner wing.
TBH, I find that the easiest way of changing that filter is to ring the garage and arrange a time to take the car in for a service.
Click to expand...

HA! "five wrists and three elbows" is selling the awkwardness of that all-but-inaccessible bleepety bleep bleep bleeeeeeep well short ;) Hmm. Well, I'll keep on looking for a well-made and suported mod, preferably for the damn hose, rather than the filter can. Must admit, I was seriously thinking the same lines (get a garage to do it) about the next oil change and service interval, but I'm a stuborn bleeper, so I may look to other tools, maybe one of those oversized plier-like wrenches, of which there are a few designs, and give one of those a try... hell, couldn't be any more trouble that last time, could it? (yeah, yeah, famous last words!) :confused::rolleyes::D
 
@RogerStenning

is good to see they put the oil filter in an easier location on mine, lol

IMG_0003.JPG
 
gstuart said:
when the raf left biggin hill i got a tour, building after building

later on i returned to do all the oil central heating

raf bar was awesome, seeing all the memorabilia on the walls,
Click to expand...

Being a civvy, we never got to see their messes :( fwiw, I used to work in the OASC (the big brick three-wing building next door to the Chapel) as a data entry clerk (AA(IT)) was the civil service grade), before going onto somewhat higher paid work elsewhere in London :)
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
Took the D1 to work Sunday (because doing 60 hours Monday to Friday isn't enough :rolleyes: )
Gave it a quick wash, not that you would notice lol.
Checked the tyres and one down to 13psi so looks like I've got a puncture to sort out.

Also decided it's time I sort out a service.
Any recommendations for where to get oil's and filters from? Including enough to cover the diffs and gearbox/tx box.

Chris
Click to expand...

maybe a bit late, but better that than never ;)

Oils and such like, almost anywhere, Halfords, local corner spares/accessories shop, whatever. Filter kit, Craddocks etc. Not been let down by Craddocks since I started using them, and a premium kit for my D2 TD5 set me back just under a score (£20), and included all the filters I needed :) Hope this helps :)
 
Cheers mate, had a look on there and £18 all in so not bad at all.

Remember being told in the past that mtf fluid from Land Rover wasn't that expensive and very good so tempted to get that.

Just got to remember how much I need of it and ep90 to do everything.
 
RogerStenning said:
Being a civvy, we never got to see their messes :( fwiw, I used to work in the OASC (the big brick three-wing building next door to the Chapel) as a data entry clerk (AA(IT)) was the civil service grade), before going onto somewhat higher paid work elsewhere in London :)
Click to expand...

I used to hold the rank of Flight Lieutenant in the RAFVR(T); the officers who run the Air Taining Corps squadrons.
As a commissioned officer, I have visited and lodged for a week or so at a time in a number of officer's messes. The ones which really stick in my mind would be RAF Cranwell, well it is the RAF's university and RAF Halton, the apprentice's school where the officer's mess was in a Rothschilds mansion.
I've also been in some which were little more than tin sheds, such as RAF Chivenor, but all that was years ago now.
 
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RogerStenning said:
Although most of us use WD-40 (not getting int o THAT argument!) or GT-85 (or even the holy of holies, PlusGas), when dealing with sticky nuts & bolts, it's always possible, I guess. There are tools for the job of shifting these burgered bolts if all else fails, but once I've got a few spares of the right size in, I think I'll try both metric and imperial size sockets, to see if I can't rock it out, after a liberal dosing with some decent penetrating oil.
Click to expand...

The difficulty with the little bolts for the rotary filter is that the bolts are steel and rust and the housing is diecast sh*tite and once the corrosions start the parts tend to weld themselves together.

RogerStenning said:
HA! "five wrists and three elbows" is selling the awkwardness of that all-but-inaccessible bleepety bleep bleep bleeeeeeep well short ;) Hmm. Well, I'll keep on looking for a well-made and suported mod, preferably for the damn hose, rather than the filter can. Must admit, I was seriously thinking the same lines (get a garage to do it) about the next oil change and service interval, but I'm a stuborn bleeper, so I may look to other tools, maybe one of those oversized plier-like wrenches, of which there are a few designs, and give one of those a try... hell, couldn't be any more trouble that last time, could it? (yeah, yeah, famous last words!) :confused::rolleyes::D
Click to expand...

There are quite a number of oil filter wrenches of varying designs and prices on the bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R4.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xoil+filter.TRS0&_nkw=oil+filter+wrench&_sacat=0
 
brian47 said:
I used to hold the rank of Flight Lieutenant in the RAFVR(T); the officers who run the Air Taining Corps squadrons.
As a commissioned officer, I have visited and lodged for a week or so at a time in a number of officer's messes. The ones which really stick in my mind would be RAF Cranwell, well it is the RAF's university and RAF Halton, the apprentice's school where the officer's mess was in a Rothschilds mansion.
I've also been in some which were little more tha tin sheds, such as RAF Chivenor, but all that was years ago now.
Click to expand...

Did the ATC thing as a nipper (228 sqn), then went RMP(v) in the T.A. Cpls messes are fun a lot of the time :eek::oops::rolleyes:;):confused::D
 
brian47 said:
The difficulty with the little bolts for the rotary filter is that the bolts are steel and rust and the housing is diecast sh*tite and once the corrosions start the parts tend to weld themselves together.
Click to expand...

I figured that might be the case, so it may well be the easy out route if rocking it doesn't do the job. Found out what it's supposed to be, btw, it's an M6x20 flange head bolt (thank you google image search, resulted in this (https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/td5/oil-cooler-oil-filter_53224), click on p/n #19 in the list to get the description!).

brian47 said:
There are quite a number of oil filter wrenches of varying designs and prices on the bay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R4.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xoil+filter.TRS0&_nkw=oil+filter+wrench&_sacat=0
Click to expand...

I was thinking about the fourth one down on the evilbay link, but the space between the base of the can and that turbo oil pipe is a bit narrow for it. However, I just found http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/ac...-compounds/da1117-td5-oil-filter-spanner.html :D Oh, and D'OH for not finding it before I needed the damn thing, lol :rolleyes:
 
Co-Pang-Yang said:
Cheers mate, had a look on there and £18 all in so not bad at all.

Remember being told in the past that mtf fluid from Land Rover wasn't that expensive and very good so tempted to get that.

Just got to remember how much I need of it and ep90 to do everything.
Click to expand...

WHOOPS - just noticed you have a D1, not a D2, forget the listing that was here, and go for the easy route to the fluids, which are all available from halfords (that's where I got my supply, although I used Castrol Magnatec stop/start 5W/30, this country doesn't get hot enough for the others, really ;))
 
RogerStenning said:
WHOOPS - just noticed you have a D1, not a D2, forget the listing that was here, and go for the easy route to the fluids, which are all available from halfords (that's where I got my supply, although I used Castrol Magnatec stop/start 5W/30, this country doesn't get hot enough for the others, really ;))
Click to expand...

That list is OK for the Td5 Disco 2, unfortunately Co-Pang-Yang has a 300tdi if his profile is to be believed. It's a bit of a pitfall I've fallen into in the past.
For the 300tdi:
  • Engine. 5W/30 by any make. 5.8 litres
  • Main gearbox. ATF. Dexron IID. 2.67 litres (Manual) 9.8 litres (Auto)
  • Transfer box. EP80 for UK temperatures. 2.3 litres
  • Axles and swivels EP80 for UK temperatures. 1.7 litres each
  • Power steering. Dexron IID
In your list you've listed the old Texaco PS fluid which you'll have a hard time trying to find. This has been superseded by Land Rover part number STC50519. It's not cheap, but you'll find it on the bay if you search the part number for about 16 or so quid for a half litre. LR price is over 22 quid.
 
gstuart said:
got to blank both egr valves next, lol
Click to expand...
Enquired about having my EGR's blanked on my 58plate D3 this week, with it being a later model they do the blanks, a software patch and a custom re map for £249,
which I didnt think was to bad a price
 
johnlad said:
Enquired about having my EGR's blanked on my 58plate D3 this week, with it being a later model they do the blanks, a software patch and a custom re map for £249,
which I didnt think was to bad a price
Click to expand...

urs is the eu4 engine then

sounds good for the remap

luckily mines the eu2 , so don't need a software flash

was amazed when i took my MAP sensor out, was blocked solid

i did get a patch to update my engines ecu , so my turbo actuator arm will motor left and right when i put the ign key in, to help prevent it from sticking , thus preventing an error and limp mode

personally i won't bother with a remap , am happy with its performance,
 
brian47 said:
That list is OK for the Td5 Disco 2, unfortunately Co-Pang-Yang has a 300tdi if his profile is to be believed. It's a bit of a pitfall I've fallen into in the past.
For the 300tdi:
  • Engine. 5W/30 by any make. 5.8 litres
  • Main gearbox. ATF. Dexron IID. 2.67 litres (Manual) 9.8 litres (Auto)
  • Transfer box. EP80 for UK temperatures. 2.3 litres
  • Axles and swivels EP80 for UK temperatures. 1.7 litres each
  • Power steering. Dexron IID
In your list you've listed the old Texaco PS fluid which you'll have a hard time trying to find. This has been superseded by Land Rover part number STC50519. It's not cheap, but you'll find it on the bay if you search the part number for about 16 or so quid for a half litre. LR price is over 22 quid.
Click to expand...

Brian, (and anyone else who noticed that I'd edited my original listing out), here's the original listing again, with a addition of my own relating to the tyres I have on my D2. Note that this relates to the Disco 2 TD5. Aside from the addition at the bottom on tyres, this is straight out of the Haynes Manual for the D2 diesel.

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0•19

Lubricants and fluids

Engine ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/40 or 5W50, to ACEA A1, B1
Cooling system ... ... ... ... ... ... Ethylene glycol based antifreeze with OATS corrosion inhibitors*
Manual transmission ... ... ... ... ... Texaco MTF94 transmission oil
Automatic transmission ... ... ... ... ATF Dexron IID or III
Transfer gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... 75W/90R API GL5
Front and rear axles ... ... ... ... ... 75W/90R API GL5
Braking/clutch system ... ... ... ... . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4
Power steering/ACE
Ambient temperature below -20°C ... Texaco Cold Climate PAS fluid 14315
Ambient temperature above -20°C ... Use the above or Dexron II or III

* Refer to your Land Rover dealer for brand name and type recommendations

TYRE PRESSURES (STANDARD TYRES) FRONT REAR

UP TO 4 PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE

Up to 2003 model year ... ... 1.9 bar 28 psi ... 2.6 bar 38 psi
From 2003 model year ... ... 2.1 bar 31 psi ... 2.6 bar 38 psi

FULLY LOADED

Up to 2003 model year ... ... 1.9 bar 28 psi ... 3.2 bar 46 psi
From 2003 model year ... ... 2.6 bar 38 psi ... 3.2 bar 46 psi

Insa Turbo Ranger 265/70 R16

Normal every day loading ... 2.4 bar 35 psi ... 2.4 bar 35 psi
FULL LOAD ... ... ... ... 2.75 bar 40 psi ... 2.75 bar 40 psi​

Before I list what I use, I should point out that Halfords have two branches on my way to and from work, which makes them easy to find. The local 'corner' spares shops also have the odd days when they've got early closing, which can be irritating if I forget about it!

For the engine, since I'm in the UK, I use 5W/30 for the engine (I prefer Castrol Magnatec stop/start); it's also apparently OK for short periods in hotter weather, such as a week in mid-France ;)
For the Coolant fluid, I use Halfords "OAT Ready Mixed Antifreeze"; it's the white 5-litre bottle with the pink fluid inside.
I have yet to find any Texaco MTF94, so advice on decent equivalents would be handy!
For the transfer box and front/rear diffs, I use Halfords "Gear Oil EP 75W/90 GL-5"
For the brakes and clutch, I use "Comma Dot 4"
For the power steering/ACE, I use the same fluid, a Dextron II - compliant fluid, as it's very unlikely I'll find myself in sub-minus 20 C temperatures, unless we get another ice age in London o_O;).

The previous owner lifted the Maroon Monster, by adding new springs and shocks all round, and added the Insa Turbo tyres. Gives the wagon a nice look, but I had (you might have noticed a thread on this a short while ago) to wind out the lock limiters to pass the MoT. I'll eventually get around to adding wheel spacers and extended wheel arches so I can wind 'em back in again, but it's not that much of a high priority, as I'm finding it less of an issue than I thought it might be. In the mean time, there are no published manufacturers guide for correct TP for them on the Disco, so I've searched around (on here and elsewhere), and found the consensus to be between 35 and 40 psi.

If anyone has comments on the above, I'm all ears (so to speak)!
 
@RogerStenning
Regarding MTF94, it doesn't HAVE to be the Texaco stuff, mtf94 as supplied by any reputable company should be OK.
Regarding the ACE/PR fluid. LR do recommend "Cold Climate Fluid" STC50519. I have heard, but I can't verify it that the life of the seals in the steering box and the pump could be reduced if the wrong fluid is used. I believe that Dexron IID can be used in an emergency.
Tyre pressures in the owner's handbook recommend 30/38 psi normal load and 30/46 psi loaded to max vehicle weight. Those are the front/rear pressures for the Disco 2 and listed in the post 2003.
 
Brian -

OK on the MTF94, thanks :)

Noted (VERY noted :confused:) on the ACE/PS fluids; I don't have a very local LR main dealer - nearest one is either Coulsdon or Sidcup. I'll have a dekko online, maybe one of the usual suspects/retailers might have the stuff :)

Noted on the TP figures. Since I've got Insa Ranger Turbos on mine, the official LR figures don't apply (note the tyre size difference for a start - mine are MUCH bigger ;)). I've also got both a hard copy (book) and a PDF copy of the handbook ("Owners_Handbook_01_MY.pdf"), and that shows the info on pp 203, as follows (Note: Relates to tyres supplied with vehicle at point of dealership sale):

Tyre pressures
Loading condition ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Pressure - bar (lbf/in 2 )
Normal operating conditions . ... ... ... ... ...... ... ... .. Front 1.9 (28) / Rear 2.6 (38)
Vehicle loaded to maximum gross vehicle weight ... Front 1.9 (28) / Rear 3.2 (46)​

Needless to say, given there are no official figures given for the Insa tyres, the figures (well, the consensus figures, at any rate) I'm using appear to be something of a work in progress :eek:;)
 
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