Other what have u done on ur disco today

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Drove my 2001 D2 back from down south to up't north, after a mud run and now got a strange squeak on the overrun and sometimes on the acceleration, if you accelerate hard it stops. Sounds clutch related, but going to check the propshafts as well. Sounds almost like a bird is living in there somewhere! I'm just glad I got back ok.
 
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Easter clean inside and out, now sitting on four Pirelli Scorpions.

Started to use the D3 again for commuting within Cheshire, serving us well presently.

Happy Easter all 👍🏻
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Is that a sintered-bronze bush for the turbo-wastegate pivot ? Mine was sticky, so decided to lube it.
Hardest bit was removing the heat shield - two bolts above exhaust manifold were ok but the rear one was welded to the turbo. Luckily the rear part of the bracket was broken, so only had to drill out two rivets & it came off ok.
A 17mm spanner fits on that square end of the shaft to work it loose, so didn't need to remove the wastegate.
Used wd40/diesel/acetone mix to penetrate & free-off, then engine oil to lube it.
Must get a bit hot just there, is there a recommended lube for that level of heat... (?)
Not sure how long the oil will last, but next time I lose power at 2800 rpm I'll know to check this again...🤞
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R-Two-D2 said:
Cleaned my MAP sensor, only cos I saw it somewhere on here... dunno if that mess was bad, or normal?
before & after pics... ('01 D2 td5 auto 129k)
View attachment 314096

View attachment 314097
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Well it's obviously better!
Is the lickle hole down inside it visible and clean?
Hope you din't stick anything down it and used sensor cleaner!
If it is OK it should drive a lot better!
Well done!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Well it's obviously better!
Is the lickle hole down inside it visible and clean?
Hope you din't stick anything down it and used sensor cleaner!
If it is OK it should drive a lot better!
Well done!
Click to expand...
Yes it wasn't blocked so a cotton rag and elbow grease was sufficient.
What is sensitive inside the hole? :D
 
R-Two-D2 said:
Yes it wasn't blocked so a cotton rag and elbow grease was sufficient.
What is sensitive inside the hole? :D
Click to expand...
Here is a link to a thread of mine about this sensor, the problems I was having and why!
And how it got sorted!
www.landyzone.co.uk

Air flow logged low, IAT logged high.

Hi all, looking for help with a problem that only seems to occur when the engine gets really hot and/or when the weather is hot. Could this simply be that the MAP/IAT needs replacing? The Fault is that as I pull away from a standstill, i.e when lights change or when joining a roundabout, the car...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Also to save @sierrafery some time here is a quote from him I found on another forum.
"Hi, the IAT is measured by the generally named "MAP sensor" in the intake manifold which actually has double purpose and gives both inputs(hence it's 4 wires), the sensor's protuberance is the IAT probe the MAP is the hole at it's bottom) the IAT is affected by EGR if you still have it fitted, a snorkel would have minimal to no effect on it as you said a bigger intercooler would lower it also the boost is important to be as high as possible"
from
 
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A nice new set of genuine injector washers and o rings arrived .... Reading some posts, I've decided to do a full compression test whilst the injectors are out, to see if thats the cause of my smoke problems.... So, ordered the sykes-pickavant tool, that fits inplace of the injector, so I can check all cylinders, rather than using a glow plug adaptor. Will be doing my lads TD5 90 as well, so two for the price of one tester... I need to get my finger out of my anus, and get my Disco running again.
 
Pulled the door runners out to touch up, and discovered the carpet in both footwells was drenched underneath. Hours later I have the carpets out, and now the fun of leak tracing begins.
Frustratingly it's not as simple as the A pillar drain holes, they seem fine. But fortunately it's not red, so not the heater matrix...
 
R-Two-D2 said:
Must get a bit hot just there, is there a recommended lube for that level of heat... (?)
Not sure how long the oil will last, but next time I lose power at 2800 rpm I'll know to check this again...🤞
Click to expand...
Yes . There is. This is what I used on my ‘40. Not cheap, but good up to 1200C!!! Ignore the 140C, incorrect info… I checked.
 

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Been fitting a new condensing rad to the D2. Bracket bent slightly (easily straightend) out of the box which is a big improvement over the one Autodoc originally sent me as the whole rad. was curved (like a bike one) + the drier pipe was pushed into the core, only took them about 3 months to sort it !
 

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Shedload said:
Yea, I've had good and bad experiences with autodoc. Not sure they actually have some of the stuff they advertise.
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I must admit it's the only problem I've had with them. It, the 1st rad, was sent back next day, I left it for a couple of weeks & then started chasing them & it was always "we're waiting for our returns dept. to inspect it" Like you say probably had to wait to restock. (Didn't even get the first one out of its packaging & as the outer Autodoc box was undamaged it must of happened in the factory)
 

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Ordered from them 3 times, 1st time when I ordered, website said item available for dispatch. I ordered and paid for 48 Hr delivery, booked a day off. Then item Not available ! Arrived ten days later.
Last time, I ordered some cheap shocks for wife's KA. Followed delivery info' right up until it said out for delivery with my local driver, Geoff.
Then. 'returning to supplier'. No explanation. I asked why, they didn't know but I could pay the difference for some Monroe items.
To say I complained would be an understatement ! They sent the Monroe's at the same price. 😊
Rant over.
 
Oil& filter change whilst it's in bits for the condenser rad.
Noticed my latest Meyle filters are now chinky compared to last year's Austrian 🙄
 

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