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You can isolate the lpg stuff just disconnect the 2 hoses and put a small bit of hose across the 2 outlets, done that before when the reducers were leaking. It doesn't cause a flow problem
What did you do with your Range Rover today
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Re. V8 airlocks.. i think.. can't prove.. the issue is air under the thermostat which keeps it cool so it doesn't open.
The trick seems to be, once you've got as much coolant in as you can, by squeezing the top hose, sacrificing virgins etc.. keep the revs at 2000 rpm so you get decent flow to the thermostat, warming it up quicker so it has chance to open. Once it's open then switch off and let it cool fully.
The trick seems to be, once you've got as much coolant in as you can, by squeezing the top hose, sacrificing virgins etc.. keep the revs at 2000 rpm so you get decent flow to the thermostat, warming it up quicker so it has chance to open. Once it's open then switch off and let it cool fully.
Right gonna be a bit of a long one guys so bare with me.
On the way back from the parents to mine I thought I would take the longer way home through town to see what happens with coolant temp and then decided to go further out anyway to check even more.
Coolant temp started off at 49c and moved up reasonably well until around 65 then it was a bit slower but not too bad, when I decided to go up the bypass at 70mph it was at 72c at the start of the bypass a few minutes later at the end of the bypass it had dropped to 68, going round the big island at the end it went up 75ish. Going 70mph on the otherside on the way back again by the end it had dropped to 68ish thought I would pop to McDonalds round the corner for something to eat and idle it for a while, it moved up to around 78 after about 5 minutes or so but it then took around 25 minutes of idling to reach 83 as soon as I started driving back to mine about 2 minutes of 30mph it had dropped back down to about 75.
Then when I pulled up outside mine since I still had the nanocom connected I thought I would check some other things out and bearing in mind this is off what the nanocom is reporting the battery voltage it was reporting at 13.5/6v so thought I would do a test and put the lights on just on dipped though, seat heaters, heated windows, fans on full and it dropped to 13.0/1 So assuming its accurate might mean its a new alternator needed. Might explain why I had the occasional srs light and the xyz position fault a few times aswell, I'd put the xyz fault down to the stiff cable/needing adjustment like i'd mentioned before but maybe thats not the case and they are being thrown by low voltage.
On the way back from the parents to mine I thought I would take the longer way home through town to see what happens with coolant temp and then decided to go further out anyway to check even more.
Coolant temp started off at 49c and moved up reasonably well until around 65 then it was a bit slower but not too bad, when I decided to go up the bypass at 70mph it was at 72c at the start of the bypass a few minutes later at the end of the bypass it had dropped to 68, going round the big island at the end it went up 75ish. Going 70mph on the otherside on the way back again by the end it had dropped to 68ish thought I would pop to McDonalds round the corner for something to eat and idle it for a while, it moved up to around 78 after about 5 minutes or so but it then took around 25 minutes of idling to reach 83 as soon as I started driving back to mine about 2 minutes of 30mph it had dropped back down to about 75.
Then when I pulled up outside mine since I still had the nanocom connected I thought I would check some other things out and bearing in mind this is off what the nanocom is reporting the battery voltage it was reporting at 13.5/6v so thought I would do a test and put the lights on just on dipped though, seat heaters, heated windows, fans on full and it dropped to 13.0/1 So assuming its accurate might mean its a new alternator needed. Might explain why I had the occasional srs light and the xyz position fault a few times aswell, I'd put the xyz fault down to the stiff cable/needing adjustment like i'd mentioned before but maybe thats not the case and they are being thrown by low voltage.
See my way when i was doing a mates p38 before I bought yours was fill via the top hose till I can't get any more in attach it to rad, fill via the coolant bottle, do a bunch of squeezing on the top hose while engine is still off at this point while blocking the return pipe and get what bubbles out I can like that then start it with cap off and basically still keep squeezing while return is still blocked as it is heating up. I personally had good success with that obviously at somepoint it would get a little hot on your finger so removed that and let it return to make sure there is a good flow and then maybe hold it at 2k rpm for a little bit, let it cool down and top up if needed. I tended to find at that point only around a litre or so would need to added if that.
My reasoning for filling via the top hose was that it should mean that water is definitely in the engine and at both sides of the water pump so there isn't a chance for it to run dry.
I found 2k revs my way basically helped get the airlock that likely would be in the heater matrix and that would quickly make it shift the bubbles for that small bit.
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That sounds ok for the alternator. Btw it was new in December '20.
13.6v is normal for a fully charged battery.
A better test is to leave the main beams on for 5 mins then start the engine. Use a multimeter to read the voltage at the battery, should be 14.7 but it will drop as the battery gets full again
13.6v is normal for a fully charged battery.
A better test is to leave the main beams on for 5 mins then start the engine. Use a multimeter to read the voltage at the battery, should be 14.7 but it will drop as the battery gets full again
Noted, not sure where my multimetre is so having the brother in law drop one off to me, after he finishes his shift in the morning. When it dropped to 13v idle got noticeably worse not miss firing but definitely rougher.
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Can't explain that one, it should still run ok, even if the alternator was completely dead, the battery has to get pretty flat before it dies
Yeah, I'll see what a multimetre says and if i'm still not happy I might pop and see the old autoelectrician whose been going for donkeys years and can trace anything electrical and repair it and see what he thinks about the alternator
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When you get the meter, measure the voltage between the positive post on the alternator and the body of the alternator then measure across the battery, should be with 250mv (i think) if not there's a bad (earth) connection somewhere or a dodgy cable (connection).
Scotiawhiskers
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On Otto we found that jacking the driver front corner up helped to burp the air through better too - high point on that corer then instead of the middle of the system.
Scotiawhiskers
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Only occurred to me as we were whizzing past. Not going online at 60mph in the drivers seat!Should have got in touch been in all day. Well some one's got to watch the missis do the garden
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When load testing the alternator with all accessories on the engine should be at 2000rpm. If it holds at 13v minimum then it's doing it's job.
As for the coolant, à quick test is to fill it up to the top of the coolant tank and at temp check for bubbles.
Another is to get a co2 test kit and see if it changes colour.
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Pressure check when engine is warm but not running. That way you can hear or see coolant escaping without the fan blowing it away.
Datatek
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Immediately after starting, you should see around 14.7 volts at the battery. I suspect you have the old 13.8 volt regulator in the alternator.
according to the paperwork that says the alternator was tested that Kermit purchased it says the set point was 14.7 but seems to suggest that it was tested at 13.5v not too sure. I'll take a pic of the bit of paper as one you guys might interpret it differently to me.
Right had a couple of minutes spare to check the voltage, battery read 12.4 before starting and immediately after starting was 14.1.
Didn't get chance to test on the alternator itself but the car started to smoke in the engine bay! Bad you might think? Not so! I think I have spotted the coolant leak! Looks like it was one of the blue hoses and was dripping on the exhaust hence the smoke also had the tell tale signs on the leads underneath. Just need to figure out how I'm gonna replace it as I don't think tightening up will work as that was something I checked the tightness off when I got a the car a couple of weeks ago so I'd suggest its already as tight as it will go.
Didn't get chance to test on the alternator itself but the car started to smoke in the engine bay! Bad you might think? Not so! I think I have spotted the coolant leak! Looks like it was one of the blue hoses and was dripping on the exhaust hence the smoke also had the tell tale signs on the leads underneath. Just need to figure out how I'm gonna replace it as I don't think tightening up will work as that was something I checked the tightness off when I got a the car a couple of weeks ago so I'd suggest its already as tight as it will go.
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Datatek
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Alternator sounds fine
Righto, the occasional xyz position fault that clears and is fine afterwards probably has more to do with cable being stiff/needing adjustment then. I did try to adjust it the other day but I couldn't get the split pin out for the life of me.Alternator sounds fine
Datatek
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If the cable is stiff you are going to have problems. Charging the battery might be a good idea as 12.4 is on the low side.
Yeah, i'm gonna double check what the battery says later after a drive and again after a few hours/tomorrow. It might have been on the low side from doing that quick little test last night then turning the car off last night pretty much straight away so might have just drained it a little more is all.
I plan on picking up one of those cable grease clamp things that motorbikes use on clutch cables and what not to see if it can force some further up the rubber aswell to see if that helps.
