What did you do with your Range Rover today

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stemac33 said:
OK done microswitches, all put back together and Nada again. No ignition, dash lights nothing.checked and cleaned earth's and locks still cycling with ignition off but stop when key turned to position 2.
Any ideas
Cheers
Click to expand...

The tailgate button is also run through the drivers door lock that can cause problems, but the missing volts will not help one bit.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Got yeh. Derr:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

but you were right on colours and it being on the side:)

upload_2023-4-15_18-39-10.jpeg

J
 
Passenger seat fuse-20 has been blowing regularly. Removed the two under-seat relays, and it still blew randomly. Traced to the lumbar pump wiring.

Disconnected it, because I could not be bothered to remove the seat back cover. Seat motors all working again - passenger will have to do without lumbar pump !!
 
Datatek said:
Silicone tube breaths diesel fumes, car stank after a while when I tried it. It does not actually leak just lets fumes through.
Click to expand...
It's the float chamber on my series, the cap is warped so not clamping on the seal enough. Daren't try and straighten it.
I've used the sealant I've got, it'll either work or it won't. At least it's not under any pressure
 
kermit_rr said:
It's the float chamber on my series, the cap is warped so not clamping on the seal enough. Daren't try and straighten it.
I've used the sealant I've got, it'll either work or it won't. At least it's not under any pressure
Click to expand...

How warped?
Flat both with emery?;).

Is it a paper gasket? get some thicker material;).

J
 
Datatek said:
Have you actually checked the battery
voltage? Otherwise, check the feed to the under bonnet fuse box is tight.
Click to expand...
Hi data yes new and charged mf31-1000. I found water in some connections in drivers kick panel so dried them off and cleaned up aswell as earth's.
The three lives under the engine fuse box, do they just feed the interior fuse box?, if so I was losing 3v along the way. Now got 12.9 all I did was remove them to check for corrosion and put them back.
 
stemac33 said:
Hi data yes new and charged mf31-1000. I found water in some connections in drivers kick panel so dried them off and cleaned up aswell as earth's.
The three lives under the engine fuse box, do they just feed the interior fuse box?, if so I was losing 3v along the way. Now got 12.9 all I did was remove them to check for corrosion and put them back.
Click to expand...
The connections do corrode, so removing and refitting them often sorts the problem.
As others have said, the white connectors need to be cut out, the wires soldered and insulated with glue filled heat shrink tube.
 
well cleaned the blue plug and gearbox seemed to behave the same anyway worth a shot though.

Found out the sponge material under the carpet drivers side is soaking wet, squeezing it seems to be clear and no sweet smell to it. O rings appear to be fine on the heater matrix and the spong material seems to be fine on that side section just below them so not coming from there, Looks like I'm missing the drain pipes that come out of those rubber bungs either side of the transmission tunnel though, but I haven't got working ac as there isn't a condenser on the car so I wouldn't have thought it would be from that.

Pulled off the kick panel passenger side and found an aux cable that seems to go towards the back. Was having a root round because yesterday out of nowhere sub decided it was going to start popping.
 
Khemitude said:
Do you happen to have a picture of the top of the engine bay where the dipstick comes up? I’ve got a lot of lpg gubbins bolted around mine, so unsure if they would actually end up being in the way of where it would come up.
Click to expand...

This is on Otto - GEMS rather than Bosch, so different plenum, etc. Autobox dipstick is the orange knob, above the plenum inlet and in line with the shiny aircon pipe.
Tube for it runs down between back of engine and bulkhead, to the gearbox.
upload_2023-4-15_20-39-28.png
 
kermit_rr said:
Yea, if it's critical, it gets torqued, if it's not important so much then it gets nipped up. I won't have torqued a drain plug and I'd be nervous on the thread hence tenancy to under tighten.

My dad is the opposite, if in doubt then tighten it some more then curse for a week when the thread strips. Don't get me started on that
Click to expand...
If in doubt, cross drill, undertighten and lockwire / pin.
 
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