What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Multimeter read 12.6 on the battery when I went out to it earlier which wasn’t bad since I’d only ran it for about 30 seconds because of the smoke. Tighten up every hose clamp I could get my hands on while I was there including the blue hoses to see if it makes a difference and topped back up on the coolant.
Thought I would pull up round the corner as it can be quite loud with the rattly cats on first start up and it’s a good job I did because when I lifted the bonnet I had left the cap off the expansion tank, oops.
 
pwood999 said:
Assuming your passenger seat is non-memory, then definitely pull the two relays first. That will prove if it's the lumbar wiring shorting, because everything else in the seat goes via the relays.

The lumbar is fed through the same connector that powers the recline & headrest motors (C952). My fix was to remove the Light Green & White connector pin from the housing & heat-shrink it. That way the 12V power feed to the faulty lumbar is removed, but the recline & headrest still work.

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This is brilliant. Thank you so much for this. I'll let you know how I get on. Nick
 
Glad you
Khemitude said:
Multimeter read 12.6 on the battery when I went out to it earlier which wasn’t bad since I’d only ran it for about 30 seconds because of the smoke. Tighten up every hose clamp I could get my hands on while I was there including the blue hoses to see if it makes a difference and topped back up on the coolant.
Thought I would pull up round the corner as it can be quite loud with the rattly cats on first start up and it’s a good job I did because when I lifted the bonnet I had left the cap off the expansion tank, oops.
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Found the leak!
 
kermit_rr said:
Glad you
Found the leak!
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Hey given that it was quite literally round the corner it moved to when I checked I don't think it did actually leak any out of the top ha ha.

Though too early to tell but after driving it earlier level seemed good and couldn't feel anything wet around those hoses so fingers crossed. Interestingly the coolant gauge seemed far more reasonable aswell as it it wasn't swimming about like before so maybe its helped with that too, I'll have to double check with the nanocom connected to see what its actually reading at to see if it is more stable.
 
Noticed a death wobble earlier when I was picking my uncle back up from the hospital when I hit 85, while likely to never do that speed normally still not good so thinking of replacing the steering damper first to see how it goes. Was thinking of going for one of the Terrafirma ones and can pick one up from the bay of fleas for £42 anyone got any experience with the terrafirma one?
 
Khemitude said:
Noticed a death wobble earlier when I was picking my uncle back up from the hospital when I hit 85, while likely to never do that speed normally still not good so thinking of replacing the steering damper first to see how it goes. Was thinking of going for one of the Terrafirma ones and can pick one up from the bay of fleas for £42 anyone got any experience with the terrafirma one?
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I got 5yr from my last terra damper. The problem is they sit with the seal pointing down and leak oil... :(
I replaced it with a bpart (I know)... And it does the same.. The cellular model.
https://www.britpart.com/parts/suspension-and-axle/steering/steering-dampers/dc6006
The next one will a be will be a standard landrover one If I can get it. ;)
 
Khemitude said:
Noticed a death wobble earlier when I was picking my uncle back up from the hospital when I hit 85, while likely to never do that speed normally still not good so thinking of replacing the steering damper first to see how it goes. Was thinking of going for one of the Terrafirma ones and can pick one up from the bay of fleas for £42 anyone got any experience with the terrafirma one?
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Doesn't the damper pretty much just hide issues rather than cure them?

I've been though similar with the 110 a couple of weeks ago. Main issue was a loose bearing but I did some other joints at the same time.
 
julianf said:
Doesn't the damper pretty much just hide issues rather than cure them?

I've been though similar with the 110 a couple of weeks ago. Main issue was a loose bearing but I did some other joints at the same time.
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To be honest I couldn’t tell you, I’ve only had this car for a few weeks now and this is the first time I expericianced it. To be fair the steering does grab a little more than I reckon it should when going over pot holes or a bump so I reckon the steering damper could do with being replaced anyway and I figured for the price and it seems like a 15 minute job it’s worth a shot.

I was mainly going off the rimmer bros YouTube channel where they mentioned it and the first thing they did was replace the damper which supposedly helped a great deal.
 
Khemitude said:
Noticed a death wobble earlier when I was picking my uncle back up from the hospital when I hit 85, while likely to never do that speed normally still not good so thinking of replacing the steering damper first to see how it goes. Was thinking of going for one of the Terrafirma ones and can pick one up from the bay of fleas for £42 anyone got any experience with the terrafirma one?
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It's unlikely to be the steering damper, much more likely the swivels if it's not just wheel balance. Easy enough to check the damper by undoing one end and seeing if it provides resistance to movement.
 
julianf said:
Doesn't the damper pretty much just hide issues rather than cure them?

I've been though similar with the 110 a couple of weeks ago. Main issue was a loose bearing but I did some other joints at the same time.
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I think so.

Can be all sorts on the P38A. Bushes, radius arm, trailing arms or panhard rod. Balljoint somewhere. Viscous coupling starting to seize. Antirollbar links. Propshafts. Wheel bent or not balanced or even odd tyres. Only thing you can do is start with the cheap and easy stuff and work your way through the lot.
 
Right gentlemen maybe I'm being dumb bout should there be something attached to the hole on the sump?

Also does this abs sensor look pushed in fully to you guys? I know Kermit thinks its a split reluctor ring and thats why occasionally the TC will kick in at basically full lock to the right when moving away but it seems the abs sensor on the opposite side is pushed in further.
 

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Khemitude said:
Right gentlemen maybe I'm being dumb bout should there be something attached to the hole on the sump?

Also does this abs sensor look pushed in fully to you guys? I know Kermit thinks its a split reluctor ring and thats why occasionally the TC will kick in at basically full lock to the right when moving away but it seems the abs sensor on the opposite side is pushed in further.
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Don't know about the sump and don't feel like crawling under the car just now.
I would say that ABS sensor is in all the way. You could give it a light tap with a rubber mallet to be sure. No harm will be done.
 
Finally installed my factory winch , brush guard and driving lights. Was a bit of a puzzle as to what to fit first. Turned out we had to install the bumper and brush guard first. The two bolts on each side that hold the crush cans in place were pushed through from the inside of the frame to just flush with the outside edge. We then had to take apart the winch tray brackets and bolt the shorter one onto the outside of the frame by pushing the crush can bolts through the rest of the way. Finally add the arms that go to the tray and the tray/winch.

While doing this I discovered my auto transmission oil cooler was leaking. Totally caked with oil soaked dust. Radiator was not much better so decided to replace both items from the parts bin. Had a lot of trouble getting the air bled out of the system. First time that has happened. Bit of a puzzle. Lastly I got a "transmission overheat" message on the dash without even running the car. Turned out I had not fully plugged the sensor into its socket when I installed the cooler. Had to add 3 litres of ATF to the transmission as a last job.

A good example of "one thing leads to another" when working on a P38.


upload_2023-4-18_13-2-13.png
 
Khemitude said:
Right gentlemen maybe I'm being dumb bout should there be something attached to the hole on the sump?

Also does this abs sensor look pushed in fully to you guys? I know Kermit thinks its a split reluctor ring and thats why occasionally the TC will kick in at basically full lock to the right when moving away but it seems the abs sensor on the opposite side is pushed in further.
Click to expand...
Don't know what that hole is for, maybe a temp sensor on some other car? No clue.
Re. the reluctor ring, i know it's split because you can see it.
Pull the sensor out and look down the hole, you can see the split clearly, screwdriver in and you can move it
 
Gord Wedman said:
Finally installed my factory winch , brush guard and driving lights. Was a bit of a puzzle as to what to fit first. Turned out we had to install the bumper and brush guard first. The two bolts on each side that hold the crush cans in place were pushed through from the inside of the frame to just flush with the outside edge. We then had to take apart the winch tray brackets and bolt the shorter one onto the outside of the frame by pushing the crush can bolts through the rest of the way. Finally add the arms that go to the tray and the tray/winch.

While doing this I discovered my auto transmission oil cooler was leaking. Totally caked with oil soaked dust. Radiator was not much better so decided to replace both items from the parts bin. Had a lot of trouble getting the air bled out of the system. First time that has happened. Bit of a puzzle. Lastly I got a "transmission overheat" message on the dash without even running the car. Turned out I had not fully plugged the sensor into its socket when I installed the cooler. Had to add 3 litres of ATF to the transmission as a last job.

A good example of "one thing leads to another" when working on a P38.


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Nice lights should reduce the cooling a good bit:eek:
 
kermit_rr said:
Don't know what that hole is for, maybe a temp sensor on some other car? No clue.
Re. the reluctor ring, i know it's split because you can see it.
Pull the sensor out and look down the hole, you can see the split clearly, screwdriver in and you can move it
Click to expand...

ah right fair enough, didn’t realise it was obviously split enough that it could be seen.
 
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