badfluffy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,769
- Location
- northampton
i was told the blue and the oat turn to jelly when mixed how true that is i have no idea
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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- Posts
- 35,853
- Location
- North Shropshire
Heard this too
Also heard mixing normal oil with fully synth is also bad..
Maybe we need to do a yootoob test
- Posts
- 13,198
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- Sud ouest France !
The mixing of oil basé types is certainly a good point.Heard this too
Also heard mixing normal oil with fully synth is also bad..
Maybe we need to do a yootoob test
- Posts
- 35,853
- Location
- North Shropshire
Allegedly someone i know 'topped up' with a different type of oil and it went hinkyThe mixing of oil basé types is certainly a good point.
- Posts
- 35,853
- Location
- North Shropshire
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
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- 2,769
- Location
- northampton
but isn't semi synthetic a mix of both anyway
- Posts
- 35,853
- Location
- North Shropshire
Don't quite me but i think not. I think semi is modified mineral oil, fully is man made
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,722
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Possibly but shouldn't happen. I guess there may have been some additives that reacted but I suspect there was another issue unless they got really unlucky. Synthetic has been modified so it is more stable so you can go longer between oil changes.
Went under a P38 V8 to do some work on it and soon got very.
What clown does this?
And then this
Yep some clown has welded the O2 sensor in, and the connection to the middle box has had an adaptor put in and then welded up. (sure it should have a flange there)
What I dont understand is the O2 sensors (both side) seem to have been moved to a different position and the old position blanked.
Anyway, I guess there will be sparks tomorrow and a bit more swearing.
J
J
.What clown does this?
And then this
Yep some clown has welded the O2 sensor in, and the connection to the middle box has had an adaptor put in and then welded up. (sure it should have a flange there)
What I dont understand is the O2 sensors (both side) seem to have been moved to a different position and the old position blanked.
Anyway, I guess there will be sparks tomorrow and a bit more swearing
.J
J
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,681
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
No solder in P38 radiators.
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 619
- Location
- Warwickshire, UK
Maybe not when they left the factory... who knows since then unless you're the first owner and never trusted a garage to touch it!
Pretty sure the garage have told the wife my car isn't getting fixed. They seem to keep disregarding her because she is a woman, and being in the Middle East is making it difficult for me to ring and find out what the **** is going on. They've changed a part which they didn't say what, the ABS/TC lights are still on, they have one more option which they didn't tell her what, at that point they are done working on it.
Seems my P38 days are over.
Seems my P38 days are over.
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- 35,853
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- North Shropshire
I know it's the wrong section
but i was asking for my 2A thought i said but maybe i forgot v
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,681
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Have you tried soldering plastic and aluminum?Maybe not when they left the factory... who knows since then unless you're the first owner and never trusted a garage to touch it!
- Posts
- 4,234
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Fitted new track rod & drag link to P38 project car today. Last weekend did the ball joints. Only difficult bits were getting the hubs out, & the pain in my knees & legs afterwards.
Nearly ready for MOT. Replacement CAT & O2 sensors sitting in Milton Keynes waiting for collection. Nothing wrong with the old one except the bar-stewards that nicked it.
Nearly ready for MOT. Replacement CAT & O2 sensors sitting in Milton Keynes waiting for collection. Nothing wrong with the old one except the bar-stewards that nicked it.
rich28uk
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 635
- Location
- Manchester
Cleaned and treated rear subframe on the l322, was picked up on second to last mot for corrosion but not structural, gave it a good wire brush and hammer with chipping hammer, absolutely solid under the surface, so treated with two cans of Bilt Hamber Dynax UB, quick and easy to apply and is meant to stop existing corrosion. Front to do over weekend or into next week, before we start with salt on roads.
Well with sore hands I type. Must remember to get a smaller set.
Anyway, the spares car is now in basically 2 bits.
Can you get an Engine/gearbox/TB out in 1 go? Yes, you can but wow it's a long chunk of metal
So now I can get to the plugs to change them much easier.
Need to deal with those pesky rusty exhaust manifold to downpipes later, as you can see a grinder worked quicker/easier.
But I did note that a small disc will not get all the way round so I sort of did something you shouldn't teach.
Next visit to the garage will be a big tidy up tools and spilt fluids I guess.
J
.Anyway, the spares car is now in basically
2 bits.Can you get an Engine/gearbox/TB out in 1 go? Yes, you can but wow it's a long chunk of metal
So now I can get to the plugs to change them much easier
.Need to deal with those pesky rusty exhaust manifold to downpipes later, as you can see a grinder worked quicker/easier
.But I did note that a small disc will not get all the way round so I sort of did something you shouldn't teach
.Next visit to the garage will be a big tidy up tools and spilt fluids I guess
. J
Attachments
jwrrc
Well-Known Member
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- 619
- Location
- Warwickshire, UK
I haven't... I'd be willing to bet some garages would give it a go!Have you tried soldering plastic and aluminum?
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 897
- Location
- Manchester
When we did Otto's heads / gaskets, I just undid all the head to manifold bolts and left the complete exhausts supported in the bay. I can imagine that would be a little trickier with the whole set of lumps coming out though.Well with sore hands I type. Must remember to get a smaller set
Anyway, the spares car is now in basically
Can you get an Engine/gearbox/TB out in 1 go? Yes, you can but wow it's a long chunk of metal
View attachment 277061
So now I can get to the plugs to change them much easier
Need to deal with those pesky rusty exhaust manifold to downpipes later, as you can see a grinder worked quicker/easier
But I did note that a small disc will not get all the way round so I sort of did something you shouldn't teach
Next visit to the garage will be a big tidy up tools and spilt fluids I guess
J
