What did you do with your Range Rover today

kermit_rr said:

I don't know either, but have the attitude.. they would stop making the blue stuff if there was no need of it

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i was told the blue and the oat turn to jelly when mixed how true that is i have no idea

badfluffy said:

i was told the blue and the oat turn to jelly when mixed how true that is i have no idea

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Heard this too
Also heard mixing normal oil with fully synth is also bad..

Maybe we need to do a yootoob test

kermit_rr said:

Heard this too
Also heard mixing normal oil with fully synth is also bad..

Maybe we need to do a yootoob test

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The mixing of oil basé types is certainly a good point.

Mark Piercy said:

The mixing of oil basé types is certainly a good point.

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Allegedly someone i know 'topped up' with a different type of oil and it went hinky

kermit_rr said:

Allegedly someone i know 'topped up' with a different type of oil and it went hinky

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But maybe that would be useful for curing oil leaks?

kermit_rr said:

Allegedly someone i know 'topped up' with a different type of oil and it went hinky

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but isn't semi synthetic a mix of both anyway

badfluffy said:

but isn't semi synthetic a mix of both anyway

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Don't quite me but i think not. I think semi is modified mineral oil, fully is man made

kermit_rr said:

Allegedly someone i know 'topped up' with a different type of oil and it went hinky

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Possibly but shouldn't happen. I guess there may have been some additives that reacted but I suspect there was another issue unless they got really unlucky. Synthetic has been modified so it is more stable so you can go longer between oil changes.

Went under a P38 V8 to do some work on it and soon got very.

What clown does this?


And then this


Yep some clown has welded the O2 sensor in, and the connection to the middle box has had an adaptor put in and then welded up. (sure it should have a flange there)
What I dont understand is the O2 sensors (both side) seem to have been moved to a different position and the old position blanked.

Anyway, I guess there will be sparks tomorrow and a bit more swearing.

J

J

kermit_rr said:

I understood the oat stuff was corrosive to solder, in old radiators etc?

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No solder in P38 radiators.

Datatek said:

No solder in P38 radiators.

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Maybe not when they left the factory... who knows since then unless you're the first owner and never trusted a garage to touch it!

Pretty sure the garage have told the wife my car isn't getting fixed. They seem to keep disregarding her because she is a woman, and being in the Middle East is making it difficult for me to ring and find out what the **** is going on. They've changed a part which they didn't say what, the ABS/TC lights are still on, they have one more option which they didn't tell her what, at that point they are done working on it.
Seems my P38 days are over.

Bix said:

Pretty sure the garage have told the wife my car isn't getting fixed. They seem to keep disregarding her because she is a woman, and being in the Middle East is making it difficult for me to ring and find out what the **** is going on. They've changed a part which they didn't say what, the ABS/TC lights are still on, they have one more option which they didn't tell her what, at that point they are done working on it.
Seems my P38 days are over.

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Sounds like you need the e-mail address of the garage so you can explain to them.

J

Datatek said:

No solder in P38 radiators.

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I know it's the wrong section but i was asking for my 2A thought i said but maybe i forgot v

jwrrc said:

Maybe not when they left the factory... who knows since then unless you're the first owner and never trusted a garage to touch it!

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Have you tried soldering plastic and aluminum?

Fitted new track rod & drag link to P38 project car today. Last weekend did the ball joints. Only difficult bits were getting the hubs out, & the pain in my knees & legs afterwards.

Nearly ready for MOT. Replacement CAT & O2 sensors sitting in Milton Keynes waiting for collection. Nothing wrong with the old one except the bar-stewards that nicked it.

Cleaned and treated rear subframe on the l322, was picked up on second to last mot for corrosion but not structural, gave it a good wire brush and hammer with chipping hammer, absolutely solid under the surface, so treated with two cans of Bilt Hamber Dynax UB, quick and easy to apply and is meant to stop existing corrosion. Front to do over weekend or into next week, before we start with salt on roads.

Well with sore hands I type. Must remember to get a smaller set.

Anyway, the spares car is now in basically 2 bits.

Can you get an Engine/gearbox/TB out in 1 go? Yes, you can but wow it's a long chunk of metal


So now I can get to the plugs to change them much easier.

Need to deal with those pesky rusty exhaust manifold to downpipes later, as you can see a grinder worked quicker/easier.
But I did note that a small disc will not get all the way round so I sort of did something you shouldn't teach.

Next visit to the garage will be a big tidy up tools and spilt fluids I guess.

J

Datatek said:

Have you tried soldering plastic and aluminum?

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I haven't... I'd be willing to bet some garages would give it a go!

marjon said:

Well with sore hands I type. Must remember to get a smaller set.

Anyway, the spares car is now in basically 2 bits.

Can you get an Engine/gearbox/TB out in 1 go? Yes, you can but wow it's a long chunk of metal
View attachment 277061

So now I can get to the plugs to change them much easier.

Need to deal with those pesky rusty exhaust manifold to downpipes later, as you can see a grinder worked quicker/easier.
But I did note that a small disc will not get all the way round so I sort of did something you shouldn't teach.

Next visit to the garage will be a big tidy up tools and spilt fluids I guess.

J

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When we did Otto's heads / gaskets, I just undid all the head to manifold bolts and left the complete exhausts supported in the bay. I can imagine that would be a little trickier with the whole set of lumps coming out though.