What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Had email back from BBS this morning asking for the SN on the back to possibly start an RMA.

I haven't fully decided what I want to do with P38A yet especially with having the lpg leaks. Though a mate is gonna mention it to someone at work that wanted to buy his basically scrap for £1k so thats a possibility he'd be interested in mine.

Though speaking about my friends one 4l 2000 Thor if I may pick your brains.

Basically repeated overheating, Now I did get it sorted for about a week with no overheating when I swapped the thermostat for him, I reckon viscous has probably seen better days and when I drained the coolant it wasn't in great condition so probably not the best of rads either. A large part of me reckons slipped liners/cracked block which I've told him but he seems to think otherwise but hey ho.

More worryingly although he doesn't seem to think so when he last overheated it and managed to top back up and limp into work he rang me later that day to say the battery had died and could I give him a jump seemed like an odd thing to happen but this is why I wanted to pick your brains,

I know jumping these cars isn't the best of idea and either way new battery is definitely need but the real worrying thing is key still in pocket when you try to jump it the moment you touch the leads to the car it starts trying to turn over, belts rotating and all. Did quickly try chucking the key in while it was doing it just to see if it would start though tbh unlikely to be enough power with it trying to go instantly so it obviously didn't.

I reckon while he was in work it must have been trying to turn itself over hence the complete battery drain.

Any thoughts on what could cause that issue?
 
marjon said:
@Khemitude Starter relay burnt closed???

J
Click to expand...
That was my first thought though at the time I looked at it I couldn't work out which one was meant to be the starter relay from the lid, I did try pulling a bunch that had the engine symbol with a lightning bolt through it so presumably one of them was bound to be that and it still did it but maybe I just didn't get the right one.
 
Khemitude said:
That was my first thought though at the time I looked at it I couldn't work out which one was meant to be the starter relay from the lid, I did try pulling a bunch that had the engine symbol with a lightning bolt through it so presumably one of them was bound to be that and it still did it but maybe I just didn't get the right one.
Click to expand...

The fuse boxes themselves have been know to burn out and cause issues too.

Have a smell and see if you can smell burnt stuff :).

J
 
Tried cleaning up the bottom of the sump, also went round checking tightness, and the front four I was able to actually get to tighten up a touch more unlike the rest and I suspect if it is sump gasket it was from the front so fingers crossed that nip up might have sorted it, doubt it but you never know.

Too early to say definitively but after checking the top hose yesterday and today after doing the thermostat a few days ago, there doesn’t seem to be any excess pressure apart from the small amount you expect to be there when undoing the cap which I have found is normal.

Looks like the hole in the thermostat might have been causing issues after all since it really struggled to get up to temp and if it did it was clearly only just in the range where the thermostat would just about start to open before closing again.
 
Last edited:
Okay maybe not sorted on oil leak unless that’s still what’s loosened up after giving it a bit of a rinse and drive
 

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Khemitude said:
Looks like the hole in the thermostat might have been causing issues after all since it really struggled to get up to temp and if it did it was clearly only just in the range where the thermostat would just about start to open before closing again.
Click to expand...
the stat is fully open around 96 which is what have me the headaches. when i last had the radiator off, i gave it a very thorough clean, inside and out and tested for any blockages. I'm pretty sure that its (was) as clean as it could be.
my issue was i personally that thats too hot for these old engines even if it doesnt immediately cause a problem, it will idle at that temp which suggests there isnt much cooling left at idle. the electric fans will come on at.. i think 108.. but they should probably come on much sooner
 
kermit_rr said:
the stat is fully open around 96 which is what have me the headaches. when i last had the radiator off, i gave it a very thorough clean, inside and out and tested for any blockages. I'm pretty sure that its (was) as clean as it could be.
my issue was i personally that thats too hot for these old engines even if it doesnt immediately cause a problem, it will idle at that temp which suggests there isnt much cooling left at idle. the electric fans will come on at.. i think 108.. but they should probably come on much sooner
Click to expand...
It would certainly be better if the electric fans came on at under 100C IMO
 
Had another look for oil leaks. Just about every hose that holds oil is sweating near the swage. Something is weaping right at the front of the sump and I just hope it isn't the front crank seal. And finally the cam cover gasket seems to be leaking and it isn't even a year old. That was Reinz too Everything you buy these days seems to be ****.
 
Khemitude said:
Had email back from BBS this morning asking for the SN on the back to possibly start an RMA.

I haven't fully decided what I want to do with P38A yet especially with having the lpg leaks. Though a mate is gonna mention it to someone at work that wanted to buy his basically scrap for £1k so thats a possibility he'd be interested in mine.

Though speaking about my friends one 4l 2000 Thor if I may pick your brains.

Basically repeated overheating, Now I did get it sorted for about a week with no overheating when I swapped the thermostat for him, I reckon viscous has probably seen better days and when I drained the coolant it wasn't in great condition so probably not the best of rads either. A large part of me reckons slipped liners/cracked block which I've told him but he seems to think otherwise but hey ho.

More worryingly although he doesn't seem to think so when he last overheated it and managed to top back up and limp into work he rang me later that day to say the battery had died and could I give him a jump seemed like an odd thing to happen but this is why I wanted to pick your brains,

I know jumping these cars isn't the best of idea and either way new battery is definitely need but the real worrying thing is key still in pocket when you try to jump it the moment you touch the leads to the car it starts trying to turn over, belts rotating and all. Did quickly try chucking the key in while it was doing it just to see if it would start though tbh unlikely to be enough power with it trying to go instantly so it obviously didn't.

I reckon while he was in work it must have been trying to turn itself over hence the complete battery drain.

Any thoughts on what could cause that issue?
Click to expand...
Manky and much abused ex-trade smoker Mk3 Escort I had decades ago had that sort of issue. Starter permanently engaged. When I got the starter off and stripped it, the piggyback engagement relay had fused shut, holding the engaging lever in and the main current feed live all the time.
Secondhand starter was the answer for about £10, although I could probably have just sourced and replaced the piggyback relay. But it had had hot starting non-turnover issues for a while so whole starter made sense.
 
Yesterday we took a heavily laden trip to our new place, and will probably take 2 loads over at times tomorrow as well. He sounds so quiet and refined now.
However the paranoid me was picking up a slight speed related resonance / vibration through the floorpan, so I am guessing once the move is over I will be having hi up on the big jack and having a good prod underneath to check all the drivetrain bolts / joints / bearings / etc.
 
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