What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Gave mine a wash, first one in 4 weeks, been using Carplan no1 super gloss spray sealant, about £8-10 from b&m and most supermarkets, spray on wipe off works really well, dirt just washes off. Then decided to paint rear exhaust back box as that made the back end look untidy.
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The oil leak underneath is now considerable. I think the sump gasket is weeping and it isn't even that old. I did find the rear cam-cover bolt up by the bulkhead was loose so have given it a smear of Hylomar and tightened it back down. I hope that's what was causing oil to drip down the join with the gearbox.

Looks like the weep at the front is minimal. I suspect it may be where the sump meets the front xover but there's stiff in the way. Odd as I put Hylomar on that the last time I put the sump back on. Only other thing I can think is the front crank seal.

The leak at the back is way better although something is still leaking just rear of the exhaust manifold and up a bit. Cannot see where it is coming from though.
 
Looks like the weep at the front is minimal. I suspect it may be where the sump meets the front xover but there's stiff in the way. Odd as I put Hylomar on that the last time I put the sump back on. Only other thing I can think is the front crank seal.

The leak at the back is way better although something is still leaking just rear of the exhaust manifold and up a bit. Cannot see where it is coming from though.
I'd give it wash down and retrace from the top downwards👍
 
It's britpart so tinfoil is probably overkill!! I did think a bit of gungum then try and re-fold the seam
gungum and aluminium foil laminate (usually 3 - 7 layers depending on location), wedged into place on a smear of gungum in the seam, then put some form of metal strip over it to keep pressure on evenly, then 2-to lots of clamps over it. Done that on lots of bike and several car exhausts.
 
I'd give it wash down and retrace from the top downwards👍

Oddly enough I think I sorted it. I took a fresh look and then twigged the cover for the tensioner was missing! No idea where it has gone but it must have worked loose and shot off somewhere. Replaced with the one off the scrapper but this time I put a smear of Hylomar - not to stop leaks but to stop it coming loose.


I'm not sure if the rear leak really was that cam-cover bolt. I've cleaned it down and done a test drive and it looks OK. I'll check again tomorrow, try a decent test-drive and then check again tomorrow evening. If still nothing I will book it in for its MoT test.
 
Well a bunch of stuff I ordered from island 4x4 weeks ago finally came today so fitted new pollen filters and used some self adhesive draft excluders to seal them on the covers.

Redid the ptfe on the hose Barb for the reducer Barb I replaced last month as there was still a slight leak but no where near as bad as before.

While I was picking up the draft excluder from screwfix I checked to see if they did the gas leak spray and they did for £3 so picked up a bottle of that and sure enough no leak there now but could still get a faint whiff of gas so sprayed all the point and found it was on the T for the copper lines to one of the reducers so nipped that up and it stopped bubbling.

Replaced the overflow/return pipe as that would let a little coolant out of touch slightly so I didn’t think it was sealing too well, upon taking the old one of it literally snapped in my hands which explains why there was a bit of hose clamped on the over the corner of it I assumed maybe for protection to stop the corner from rubbing but nope it seems like someone did that to deal with a break before. There was no blockage in the previous one but did find the new one gave a much better stream into the tank where it was more of a dribble before.

Fitted a new genuine coolant cap as one the o rings on the other one were seeming a bit flat but would also sometimes getting hissing after stopping from it unless really cranked down. the system was still under pressure so it wasn’t actually letting any coolant out but still.

I did find last week though after sorting out all the coolant leaks though the thermostat to water pump clamp did open back up again and seeped so nipped that back up the other day. Anyway I found that with no more leaks the system would still hold a lot of pressure even over night/few days I initially put this down to the lpg leaking back into the coolant though was getting no bubbling or anything like that. Tried only on the petrol but actually was the same. Pressure isn’t building up so much that it’s shooting off hoses or loosing coolant even on long trips as I took it up to Yorkshire for the week about 100miles each way. Just not seeming to release so since I’d already ordered the cap and hose weeks thought you never know might sort it.

Sniff test is negative for exhaust gasses anyway

On the way up to Yorkshire with @kermit_rr thermostat mod I could barely get it to temp. It just about sat at 12 maybe ever so slightly less on the gauge cruising along at 60mph the moment I went to 70 just to over take a lorry so for like 15 seconds the dial would go down from the increased airflow and take about 10 minutes to get to 12 again. That was on the Sunday before last in the day so it was decently warm

Coming back on Sunday just gone in the evening car was showing 13c the whole way back I couldn’t get it much past the first white line and round town it never really gets close to getting up to temp so I figure it worth swapping back to standard to see what happens



Thermostat hasn’t come yet though hopefully not waiting ages for it though as at this point I could have got it from one of the local motor factors quicker even though they have to order it in. and for not much more.

Oh and after cleaning up the underside of the engine before I went initially when I got to Yorkshire didn’t see any oil but when I got back the sump had a decent coating again. It’s actually starting to look like it’s the sump gasket rather than the front cover.

When I get under to the the thermostat I might see if any of the sump bolts need nipping up while I’m there.

I did do the Yorkshire drive all on lpg though and she did well with no issues even with those two slight leaks. Though did forget the gas filling cap at Morrisons in Wakefield… ordered another and put on today.
 
Well a bunch of stuff I ordered from island 4x4 weeks ago finally came today so fitted new pollen filters and used some self adhesive draft excluders to seal them on the covers.

Redid the ptfe on the hose Barb for the reducer Barb I replaced last month as there was still a slight leak but no where near as bad as before.

While I was picking up the draft excluder from screwfix I checked to see if they did the gas leak spray and they did for £3 so picked up a bottle of that and sure enough no leak there now but could still get a faint whiff of gas so sprayed all the point and found it was on the T for the copper lines to one of the reducers so nipped that up and it stopped bubbling.

Replaced the overflow/return pipe as that would let a little coolant out of touch slightly so I didn’t think it was sealing too well, upon taking the old one of it literally snapped in my hands which explains why there was a bit of hose clamped on the over the corner of it I assumed maybe for protection to stop the corner from rubbing but nope it seems like someone did that to deal with a break before. There was no blockage in the previous one but did find the new one gave a much better stream into the tank where it was more of a dribble before.

Fitted a new genuine coolant cap as one the o rings on the other one were seeming a bit flat but would also sometimes getting hissing after stopping from it unless really cranked down. the system was still under pressure so it wasn’t actually letting any coolant out but still.

I did find last week though after sorting out all the coolant leaks though the thermostat to water pump clamp did open back up again and seeped so nipped that back up the other day. Anyway I found that with no more leaks the system would still hold a lot of pressure even over night/few days I initially put this down to the lpg leaking back into the coolant though was getting no bubbling or anything like that. Tried only on the petrol but actually was the same. Pressure isn’t building up so much that it’s shooting off hoses or loosing coolant even on long trips as I took it up to Yorkshire for the week about 100miles each way. Just not seeming to release so since I’d already ordered the cap and hose weeks thought you never know might sort it.

Sniff test is negative for exhaust gasses anyway

On the way up to Yorkshire with @kermit_rr thermostat mod I could barely get it to temp. It just about sat at 12 maybe ever so slightly less on the gauge cruising along at 60mph the moment I went to 70 just to over take a lorry so for like 15 seconds the dial would go down from the increased airflow and take about 10 minutes to get to 12 again. That was on the Sunday before last in the day so it was decently warm

Coming back on Sunday just gone in the evening car was showing 13c the whole way back I couldn’t get it much past the first white line and round town it never really gets close to getting up to temp so I figure it worth swapping back to standard to see what happens



Thermostat hasn’t come yet though hopefully not waiting ages for it though as at this point I could have got it from one of the local motor factors quicker even though they have to order it in. and for not much more.

Oh and after cleaning up the underside of the engine before I went initially when I got to Yorkshire didn’t see any oil but when I got back the sump had a decent coating again. It’s actually starting to look like it’s the sump gasket rather than the front cover.

When I get under to the the thermostat I might see if any of the sump bolts need nipping up while I’m there.

I did do the Yorkshire drive all on lpg though and she did well with no issues even with those two slight leaks. Though did forget the gas filling cap at Morrisons in Wakefield… ordered another and put on today.
Test the new thermostat works in a pan of boiling water before you fit it, there are a lot of duff ones about.
 
Test the new thermostat works in a pan of boiling water before you fit it, there are a lot of duff ones about.
Yeah already planned on doing that.

Had no dispatch email again from island today about the thermostat so might just ring up local motor factors and see if one of them happens to have on on the shelf though when I did mates a couple of months ago they didn’t. If they do I’ll just get it and cancel the island order I can be impatient sometimes with wanting to do stuff on the car.

I got some new headlight blades as part of the order I got today, the old ones do they just pull of or is it some slide then pull type thing looking at the new ones I’d assume just pull and push the new ones on but not sure.
 
Little bit of a further update just got it up to temp what it seems to max out on anyway which is not quite 12 o clock on the dial by idling for about 45 mins. Opened the bonnet to check hoses and what not and unlike before where the coolant would push much further down from the cold mark because of the increased pressure it’s actually gone a little above it so that’s a good sign in my eyes that there isn’t as much pressure with the new cap/hose.

Funnily enough even having the bonnet open for a few minutes while running at “temp” started the bring the needle down so it really is only just about getting to temp and even then it’s a struggle to get it near that while driving.

Time will tell if hoses are soft in the morning though.
 
Bloody still leaking oil. Grrrrrr.
That's your name don't wear it out.

Though I know how you feel this oil leak on mine is proving hard to diagnose especially since I cleaned it up the other week it seems fine including on a long journey no spots after words sump was dry and dip stick said I hadn't lost any and now back to sump having oil on it lost oil off the dip stick.
 
That's your name don't wear it out.

Though I know how you feel this oil leak on mine is proving hard to diagnose especially since I cleaned it up the other week it seems fine including on a long journey no spots after words sump was dry and dip stick said I hadn't lost any and now back to sump having oil on it lost oil off the dip stick.

Doing my head in.

I have a vague memory that I was informed the turbo gasket was part of the kit I bought when I replaced the head but it wasn't and I ended up using the old one as I needed the car back on the road. I'm beginning to wonder if that is blowing oil from a pinhole that coats sticking out bits and then gradually pools and drips. Other candidate at the back is the half-moon part of the cam-cover gasket that is hidden by the bulkhead at the back of the engine. I just cannot see down there, even with a mirror. I have a horrible feeling I am going to have to start stripping it down to find the leak(s).
 
Well thermostat is on, had some trouble with air lock in lpg and heater matrix hopefully gone now i've put the car up a grass hill, waiting for it to cool down.

In worse news nanocom has gone kaput, will not power on. Fuse 33 not blown, even tried using a 12v powerbrick to the units power port and it wont switch on. I hadn't even got round to getting the unlock codes off it yet to be able to register it in my name so I can get on the forum to see if there is anything I can do to get it working again... thats £300 down the pan, even worse since i'm still having the p0705 xyz switch code come up every now and again and need to clear it for the gear box to work properly again and when cleared its fine for a while.

Starting to really regret buying the car now seems like everytime I do something then something else happens.
 
Well thermostat is on, had some trouble with air lock in lpg and heater matrix hopefully gone now i've put the car up a grass hill, waiting for it to cool down.

In worse news nanocom has gone kaput, will not power on. Fuse 33 not blown, even tried using a 12v powerbrick to the units power port and it wont switch on. I hadn't even got round to getting the unlock codes off it yet to be able to register it in my name so I can get on the forum to see if there is anything I can do to get it working again... thats £300 down the pan, even worse since i'm still having the p0705 xyz switch code come up every now and again and need to clear it for the gear box to work properly again and when cleared its fine for a while.

Starting to really regret buying the car now seems like everytime I do something then something else happens.
The Nanocom can be damaged if it is unplugged when not on the home page and also if the engine is started with it plugged in according to some reports. BBS will no doubt be able to fix it.
 
nanocom will also power via USB from a computer, ie for firmware updates. worth trying that in case its a cable issue
Already tried, absolutely nothing, got a little bluetooth dongle was able to connect that to the car and that was able to read a bit of data so obviously ports all working fine.

Just the nanocom that has given up
 
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