What did you do with your Range Rover today

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

Datatek said:
MF31-1000 fits the L322 does it not?
That Yuasa says "lead acid" you need a lead calcium battery.

I assumed it was the same.. a battery labelled calcium is still a lead acid battery
Eddie. It says sealed calcium in the detailed specs

marjon · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
was it the 020 you fitted?

Yuasa YBX5020 Silver High Performance Car Battery: Type 020

Yuasa YBX5 car batteries are high performance lead acid batteries. They have strong cranking power & offer a 5 year warranty.

www.bmstechnologies.co.uk

its a shame the 1000CCA mf32 doesnt fit

I fitted the S5 A15 Bosch.

The MF does fit but you have to fix it down with something. Also the posts are further inboard of the battery which gives issues.

J

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

marjon said:
I fitted the S5 A15 Bosch.

The MF does fit but you have to fix it down with something. Also the posts are further inboard of the battery which gives issues.

J

Bosch S5A15 AGM Starter Battery: Type 020

The Bosch S5A15 battery with AGM technology provides enough power for frequent starts and stops. Backed by a 5 year car battery warranty.

www.bmstechnologies.co.uk

this one?
thats AGM, can you set that option in the battery reset sequence? in my BMW you had to specify capacity and agm/sealed as part of the reset (which turned off stop start if you chose sealed)

marjon · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Bosch S5A15 AGM Starter Battery: Type 020

The Bosch S5A15 battery with AGM technology provides enough power for frequent starts and stops. Backed by a 5 year car battery warranty.

www.bmstechnologies.co.uk

this one?
thats AGM, can you set that option in the battery reset sequence? in my BMW you had to specify capacity and agm/sealed as part of the reset (which turned off stop start if you chose sealed)

Yes.

It was an AGM with a Jag/LR sticker that came out.
We dont have start stop so no issue.

J

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

i'll disconnect the battery and put my load tester on it tonight, see what that says.
after the low battery symptoms, i kept an eye on the charging voltage, which, while driving, flicked between 13.6 and 12.9, which doesnt seem right as it must have needed a decent charge at that point

Grrrrrr · May 22, 2023

Scotiawhiskers said:
Did about 60 mile triangular trip, heavily laden to the new place, then a nice steady waft to the garden centre for lunch and pick up the new garden furniture set. Good waft home, ready to squeeze a few more bits in to do a second run to the new place.
Had a couple of hours for food and rest, failed to set off for the new place. Non starter. Cranks freely, catches momentarily on first crank in 5 minutes but doesn't stay running. Then won't even catch. Nanocom not reporting any faults. Battery above 12.6v even after repeated cranking attempts. No petrol smell.
Not had time to check anything else as had to get over and get keys and deposit to the decorator ready for him starting tomorrow.
Ideas on checks to do tomorrow welcome, assuming he doesn't just burst willingly into life tomorrow....

Crank sensor? Or cam, possibly. Vague memory one gives a fault and the other doesn't. Think there was a discussion on it once.

Mark Piercy · May 22, 2023

Scotiawhiskers said:
Thanks. Broken RR and ineffective bike is not helpful at this juncture.

Taken a look at RAVE, I think my simplest plan is to drag out a couple of spare spark plugs, put them on 2 easily reached leads and crank to see if spark is good.
Then repeat after swapping over the ignition and fuel pump relays. If I have sparks on both, then both relays are good and ignition works. That will also show if the CKP sensor is working or not.
After that I am into fuel pressure issues (would be typical having not long since filled up and having a full tank), or IACV failure as RAVE says no-start can be an effect of failure. But we only replaced that with a brand new unit about 18 months ago during the top end rebuild as the old one was both coked up and unevenly worn.

Does the fuel pump tin when the ignition is turned on?

Flossie · May 22, 2023

Tyres off, valves cut out, just going to dress out a bit of kerbing damage before I'm off to easten yam yam land (brum) tomorrow and the powder coaters. :vb-eyebrows:

Datatek · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
i'll disconnect the battery and put my load tester on it tonight, see what that says.
after the low battery symptoms, i kept an eye on the charging voltage, which, while driving, flicked between 13.6 and 12.9, which doesnt seem right as it must have needed a decent charge at that point

That charge voltage is certainly not right. 12.9 is not charging, 13.6 is barely charging

Mark Piercy · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
i'll disconnect the battery and put my load tester on it tonight, see what that says.
after the low battery symptoms, i kept an eye on the charging voltage, which, while driving, flicked between 13.6 and 12.9, which doesnt seem right as it must have needed a decent charge at that point

Have you load tested it a 2000rpm with all the electric accessories on full tilt?

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

Mark Piercy said:
Have you load tested it a 2000rpm with all the electric accessories on full tilt?

I put heated screens and lights on while i was driving, didn't seem to make much difference

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
I put heated screens and lights on while i was driving, didn't seem to make much difference

Tried again.. heated seats front and rear, heated screens, headlights and heater blower on max, 13.2 at 2000 rpm
Left ignition and lights on for a couple of mins, engine off, then started up and my amp clamp said around +77A on the red battery wire so the alternator is definitely doing something
I've no clue how old the battery is or if the ecu was reset when the battery was changed.. i know it changes the charging profile but don't really know how our what to look for

Datatek · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Tried again.. heated seats front and rear, heated screens, headlights and heater blower on max, 13.2 at 2000 rpm
Left ignition and lights on for a couple of mins, engine off, then started up and my amp clamp said around +77A on the red battery wire so the alternator is definitely doing something
I've no clue how old the battery is or if the ecu was reset when the battery was changed.. i know it changes the charging profile but don't really know how our what to look for

I don't know enough about AGM batteries but the charging requirements are certainly different to a standard battery. Maybe what you have is a setting for AGM?

1988smithy · May 22, 2023

Changed a split intercooler hose

Cleaned map sensors

Sorted scabby battery tray

And while we're on the subject, hoofed a bigger battery in the hole

Only had it 2 days!

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

Datatek said:
I don't know enough about AGM batteries but the charging requirements are certainly different to a standard battery. Maybe what you have is a setting for AGM?

I don't know much either except they are used on start stop cars because they are more durable, battery chargers have a have different modes for sealed and agm
The sealed setting goes up to 14.4v, the agm setting up to 14.7
That said, considering sealed batteries should be charged at 14.7, should you be using the agm setting on sealed batteries?

Scotiawhiskers · May 22, 2023

Well, you'd never expect it of a P38 would you?
Been busy with other stuff all day, finally got to looking at Otto this evening. Popped the bonnet, took off 2 and 4, put in spare plugs and earthed them on the plenum.
unlocked again, ign 2, everything whirs and pumps as far as I can tell, another click and he bursts willingly into life with good strong sparks blazing off the spare plugs.
Shut him down, reconnect to the proper plugs, start him again, Nanocom on, no error codes or anomalous readings.
So in case it is a pump / relay / sensor beginning to fail, tomorrow or Wednesday will be a 2 car trip to the new place and we'll leave him there til we can check everything properly.

kermit_rr · May 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Tried again.. heated seats front and rear, heated screens, headlights and heater blower on max, 13.2 at 2000 rpm
Left ignition and lights on for a couple of mins, engine off, then started up and my amp clamp said around +77A on the red battery wire so the alternator is definitely doing something
I've no clue how old the battery is or if the ecu was reset when the battery was changed.. i know it changes the charging profile but don't really know how our what to look for

Been thinking, maybe it never had a battery reset when a new one was put on and as a result it's under charging because it thinks it's an old battery that can't take it? What's the worst that can happen if i do a reset now? I feel I've not much to lose. I'll make sure the battery is fully charged as well

Mark Piercy · May 23, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Been thinking, maybe it never had a battery reset when a new one was put on and as a result it's under charging because it thinks it's an old battery that can't take it? What's the worst that can happen if i do a reset now? I feel I've not much to lose. I'll make sure the battery is fully charged as well

How old is the new battery kerms?

kermit_rr · May 23, 2023

Mark Piercy said:
How old is the new battery kerms?

I don't know. A new one was allegedly put on in December, but i can't prove it

Datatek · May 23, 2023

kermit_rr said:
I don't know. A new one was allegedly put on in December, but i can't prove it

Is there no date code on the top of the battery?

What did you do with your Range Rover today

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