What did you do with your Range Rover today

Grrrrrr said:

Another f*cking disaster ...

New o-ring for the coolant heater pipe to block arrived. 1 bolt to fit, what could possibly go wrong? Pipe out, smear of Hylomar behind the shoulder and over the face of the connecting pipe. O-ring coated in Vaseline and slipped in front of the shoulder on the pipe. Pipe inserted and as I start to tighten the bolt my little 1/4" Halfords qrench just falls apart in my hands. At least 1 screw from it missing. Cannot find missing bits: it is ****ed and it is only a year or so old. Get the big wrench and ever so gently start to nip it up, holding the whole head in my hand rather than the end of the wrench. Still sone give so nip it up a bit more and then snap! F*cking bolt has sheared off in the block. No room for drill so whole front of the car has to come out except the effing gearbox cooler pipes are welded to yhe rad and won't shift. Last time I used more torque they sheared off. Absolutely soaked them in Plusgas and packed in for the day. I really have had enough of this. The f*cker is fighting me every single sodding step of the way. Not a single step has been without issue.

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Grrrrrr said:

It's a ****y little 6mm UNC bolt and that's all that holds it in. Nothing protruding so no choice but to drill it out. Heat hardened no doubt but at least the coolant won't have let it get that hot.

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Grrrrrr said:

It's a ****y little 6mm UNC bolt and that's all that holds it in. Nothing protruding so no choice but to drill it out. Heat hardened no doubt but at least the coolant won't have let it get that hot.

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Scotiawhiskers said:

No space to plug weld a nut onto it and take it out that way? Or too much risk of heat damage / welding the nut to the block too?

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Flossie said:

I did similar on a mk1 escort waterpump bolt in my yoof.
Tried a easi out and that broke off in the drilled out bolt, tried drilling that out and fecked the block, had to buy another injun

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Grrrrrr said:

It's a ****y little 6mm UNC bolt and that's all that holds it in. Nothing protruding so no choice but to drill it out. Heat hardened no doubt but at least the coolant won't have let it get that hot.

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gold rover said:

Got her back. With a nice new turbo

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Dopey said:

Now don't break it....

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gold rover said:

Jinxed it now, haven't you

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Mark Piercy said:

Drill out and an easyout maybe?

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Grrrrrr said:

Problem was access and the gearbox oil pipes welding themselves to the rad.

As it happens a neighbour not only had a right angled drill bit I got home to find he'd not only drilled it out but had tapped sone sort of helicoil i to it.

Anyway, pipe in place, cam-cover off (and wire mesh in top cleaned out), headbolts tightened another 90 degress and car reassembled. Leak-off pipe replaced. Heat-shield over exhaust was already in 2 pieces but pretty much fell apart with asbestos dust everywhere on reassembly. I am going to have to replave it, I think. Car started first time and seems to run OK except diesel was deipping in the floor. Seems to be leaking from injector #2. Not sure if it is yhe injector copper washer I played with or the high pressure pipe needs nipping up. Either way, it'll have to wait until Saturday now.

Incidentally, the reason you cannot get the copper washers for the injectors is because they're integral to the injector and don't come off, according to Land Rover. A bit at odds with what it says in RAVE. I may have chewed one up a bit ttying to get it off though.

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