Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
That driver pack looks pretty normal. When you see splits in the potting compound along the edge by the wires it's good sign that the electrolytic buried there has failed.
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
No guarantee that the driver pack is the problem, look for splits in the potting compounds First check all the connectors in the EAS box for loose contacts and/or corrosion. then check the earth points under the EAS box.
Scotiawhiskers
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 887
- Location
- Manchester
Took Otto to collect an IKEA order so we used him on his first anniversary with us. Lovely steady cruise watching the speedy idiots making fools of themselves. Clocked a total of about 125miles, taking us to around 1100 for the year. More than I'd expected given the downtime he's had. He of course replicated 2 of his original faults, with a split hose taking out the cruise control and a broken wire in my substitute arrangement stopping the tailgate release being consistent and forcing me to climb into the boot from the back seat.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,415
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
I expect it works but not good sign that you can see what ever reaction is going on from the outside
perhaps his spurious issue is only when it gets to a certain temperature?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,415
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
When I lift my T shirt ,
I am more the plastic rings that seagulls wear as fashion statementAh, I am more the full barrel that the 6 pack
- Posts
- 9,112
- Location
- North Lincs
I do around 26 miles a day and it happens at least once on either outbound or inbound trip. What I have noticed is, if I manage to tap the 'down' button if I see the 'raised' light, before they all become illuminated, it sorts itself out and won't go into fault mode.I expect it works but not good sign that you can see what ever reaction is going on from the outside
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Nowt visibly wrong with your driver pack.I expect it works but not good sign that you can see what ever reaction is going on from the outside
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Aha, mine was like that with a faulty height sensor. Try locking it at motorway height.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,415
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Selected height should be lit, flashing light (single) is height it’s trying to get to. Only time they all flash is bulb check at ignition 2 or if you jam springy things in there aka coils and cock it all up. Ask me how I know
There’s 4 lights but 5 settings. “Extended” mode is not manually selectable but you know as high setting flashes and you get the arrowed vehicle light on dash. It goes back to high on its own after a while
There’s 4 lights but 5 settings. “Extended” mode is not manually selectable but you know as high setting flashes and you get the arrowed vehicle light on dash. It goes back to high on its own after a while
- Posts
- 34,072
- Location
- North Shropshire
Spring has decided to give up in my tailgate switch
Need to scroll back and see what the fix was for an alternative spring
Need to scroll back and see what the fix was for an alternative spring
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
You can make a spring from piano wire obtainable in a model aircraft shop or on line. Or you can fit my mod.Spring has decided to give up in my tailgate switch
Need to scroll back and see what the fix was for an alternative spring
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,286
- Location
- northampton
broke the tempery gear selector i fitted 2 years ago, fixed it then drove it, really must make a permanent one
- Posts
- 9,112
- Location
- North Lincs
Cheers for that, mine does not go back down if the arrowed light shows if left. The standard height plus the top light flash alternately until it hits fault mode and says 35 mph max. I then stop, use the EAS kicker, turn off and back on again. It then stays good until the next time
- Posts
- 34,072
- Location
- North Shropshire
cheers, found the mod.. didnt know about the piano wire! i'll have a lookseeYou can make a spring from piano wire obtainable in a model aircraft shop or on line. Or you can fit my mod.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I used a home made piano wire spring until the actual micro switch failed.
- Posts
- 34,072
- Location
- North Shropshire
Managed to get mine apart quite easily, there's 2 micro switches but only one is used! It can't be that hard to start using the other one?
I wonder what the redundant one was for!?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,063
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I couldn't find a way to use the spare micro switch, but I guess anything is possible if you have the time to spend.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,070
- Location
- Shropshire
Finally done the matrix O rings.
Took the side cheeks off and knocked all the switches out of the EAS etc panel so I could have a proper go at getting the sticky finish off which was successful, bit of back to black cream and a buff and they look good again.
Screw on the matrix was bloody tight but it succumbed to my manly manliness. New screw fitted, not SS cap head as I didn't have one but thought I had. Loads of M6 but no M5. Bit of copper slip should keep it nice until the next time.
Hardest part was cutting the ducting, it's tougher than I thought and there isn't a great deal of room, I probably didn't cut it in the ideal place though. Old O rings were hard and squared off.
Fixed the light in the clock, just a bit of mank on the earth, changed the bulb anyway, managed to get the green condom off the old bulb by soaking it in hot water.
Furry strip stuff around the chrome auto shift trim was mainly missing and I've found some left over identical stuff from a camper build from years ago which I'll glue on later.
First ever O ring job and I struggled a bit but I could do it in a couple of hours if I had to do it again on mine.
.Took the side cheeks off and knocked all the switches out of the EAS etc panel so I could have a proper go at getting the sticky finish off which was successful, bit of back to black cream and a buff and they look good again.
Screw on the matrix was bloody tight but it succumbed to my manly manliness
. New screw fitted, not SS cap head as I didn't have one but thought I had. Loads of M6 but no M5. Bit of copper slip should keep it nice until the next time. Hardest part was cutting the ducting, it's tougher than I thought and there isn't a great deal of room, I probably didn't cut it in the ideal place though. Old O rings were hard and squared off.
Fixed the light in the clock, just a bit of mank on the earth, changed the bulb anyway, managed to get the green condom off the old bulb by soaking it in hot water.
Furry strip stuff around the chrome auto shift trim was mainly missing and I've found some left over identical stuff from a camper build from years ago which I'll glue on later.
First ever O ring job and I struggled a bit but I could do it in a couple of hours if I had to do it again on mine.
- Posts
- 34,072
- Location
- North Shropshire
Plenty of time, until i find a suitable engine.. again!!
