Viscous coupling damper loose. Mark 1 td4

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Salem

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Hi.

I have a freelander mark 1 td4 and I think a stone in a river tapped the large round damper off of the viscous coupling on the axle . It slips back on and is snug but can be wiggled off again. Is the damper normally held in place with any bolts etc or should it be able to slide off?

Hope someone can help as I am stuck abroad in the mountains on lockdown and don't want to risk any damage to the car. I know you can remove the rear drive but I have to drive off road all the time.

On a side note. Cars done 200k and is fantastic still.
 
Bo mate, its just rubber bonded on, the bolts that hold the damper run parallel to the driveshaft. The proper solution would be a new damper, and while you are at it hanger bearings and or VCU for futureproof reliability, however in the context of being stuck in lockdown in the mountains of a foreign country your repair will need to be a bit more, innovative. As such, to keep you going until you can get a replacement damper / recon VCU assembly, I'd suggest drilling the ring at 3 or four equally spaced points, buttering the inner face of the rubber disk with polyurethane mastic/adhesive like tiger seal or sikaflex, and putting the ring back on the inner, and securing it with self tapper screws into the rubber through the holes you drilled earlier.
 
Blue = centre mass of damper
Dark Grey = VCU Shaft
Orange = coating of Polyurethane
Black = VCU Damper "ring"
Red = Holes for Self Tapper Screws
Green = Self Tapper Screws

1. Drill 2 / 3 /4 equally spaced holes (red) around the "ring"
upload_2020-5-30_14-51-12.png


2. Butter the circumference of the damper's central mass with Polyurethane (Orange)
upload_2020-5-30_14-50-21.png


3. Put "Ring" bac on Damper's central mass
upload_2020-5-30_14-52-9.png


4. Put screws (Green) through the holes to bite into the central rubber
upload_2020-5-30_14-58-4.png
 

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Jayridium said:
Bo mate, its just rubber bonded on, the bolts that hold the damper run parallel to the driveshaft. The proper solution would be a new damper, and while you are at it hanger bearings and or VCU for futureproof reliability, however in the context of being stuck in lockdown in the mountains of a foreign country your repair will need to be a bit more, innovative. As such, to keep you going until you can get a replacement damper / recon VCU assembly, I'd suggest drilling the ring at 3 or four equally spaced points, buttering the inner face of the rubber disk with polyurethane mastic/adhesive like tiger seal or sikaflex, and putting the ring back on the inner, and securing it with self tapper screws into the rubber through the holes you drilled earlier.
Click to expand...
Perfect thank you so much. I will do as suggested. Tbh it's an old car now and only cost 500 2 years ago so probably not worth replacing the VCU due to costs.
Thanks again.
 
Jayridium said:
Blue = centre mass of damper
Dark Grey = VCU Shaft
Orange = coating of Polyurethane
Black = VCU Damper "ring"
Red = Holes for Self Tapper Screws
Green = Self Tapper Screws

1. Drill 2 / 3 /4 equally spaced holes (red) around the "ring"
View attachment 210875

2. Butter the circumference of the damper's central mass with Polyurethane (Orange)
View attachment 210874

3. Put "Ring" bac on Damper's central mass
View attachment 210876

4. Put screws (Green) through the holes to bite into the central rubber
View attachment 210879
Click to expand...
Your a star thank you. Fancy a trip to spain to do it for me
 
If you don't have access to the tools to do that sort of repair, do you have access to a grinder, In which case you could cut the ring off? OR would it be possible to slide the ring down the propshaft? I genuinely don't know if it would clear the hangar bearing?
 
I had the same issue on my old 1.8, I used a load of silicone sealant on both parts and stuck it back together and left it overnight. It did the job for a good couple of years until I changed the car.
 
Salem said:
Tbh it's an old car now and only cost 500 2 years ago so probably not worth replacing the VCU due to costs.
Click to expand...

Rather than consider it an old car, and not worth much. You try to get something equivalent for the same value? You'll find you can't, so effectively your cheap freelander, becomes a freelander worth more than you imagine, if you do the maths. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Rather than consider it an old car, and not worth much. You try to get something equivalent for the same value? You'll find you can't, so effectively your cheap freelander, becomes a freelander worth more than you imagine, if you do the maths. ;)
Click to expand...
Your not wrong, same car in Spain is about 4k and up. So yeah will be keeping it, but then can't fault the car yet, been amazing in the mountains and snow.
 
Salem said:
Your not wrong, same car in Spain is about 4k and up. So yeah will be keeping it, but then can't fault the car yet, been amazing in the mountains and snow.
Click to expand...
Get it Spanish registered, I worked with a dude who lives in Spain, and he was telling me you have ~6months to get the car registered, and the onus is on you to prove how long its been in the country, not on the local cops, when they huckle you for having an anvalidly registered car.
 
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