Very slow pulling from stop freelander 1 2.0 TD4 2006

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flanne101

New Member
Posts
8
Location
rhyl
Hi, my freelander is very slow pulling away from junctions, I just always thought it is a slow car but after googling 0-60 Realised it should be faster than my girlfriends car but it is miles slower.
I have just changed the Maf sensor and not noticed any difference but I also noticed a small box under the hood which after some googling is a synergy 2.
The switch labelled air was in the off position so I have now turned that on, and it seems to be more responsive on the pedal but I have not taken the car for a drive yet.
Could that switch being off be the cause of the slow car.
I have also bought a new pipe for the air temp sensor to replace that, I have had to buy a new plug because one of the wires broken off the sensor plug, so will solder that when it arrives.
 
What MAF did you purchase a genuine Bosch or a Pierburg MAF personally i would be removing that synergy because they make the High Pressure Fuel Pump fail earlier.

A Bosch MAF will not work properly with a synergy.
 
Check inlet manifold and EGR for being clogged too.

I had one EGR that caused a dead spot as pulling away. Blanking the vacuum to it removed the problem.
 
some info re. the synergy module :
...............
 
A cheap one from ebay not a genuine one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364184535320
That wont work with a synergy you need a Pierbug MAF, and even if you did not have a synergy it would not work, well it might for a while then it would fail, i would send it back.


The one you took off check inside to see if it's bosch or not.
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Genuine original MAF.
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Purchased the one above for a friend from ebay for £15 saying it came from working FL1 we will know once we fit it and hook up either the T4 or the Hawkeye diagnostic tool.
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The car is now pulling but all the grunt seems at low revs and if I floor the accelerator I get what I can only describe as a black smoke bomb from the back. It was on no 8 so I will try again later at no4 on the box.
 
The car is now pulling but all the grunt seems at low revs and if I floor the accelerator I get what I can only describe as a black smoke bomb from the back. It was on no 8 so I will try again later at no4 on the box.
Check all the intercooler hoses EGR hose etc for any splits the sign of puff of black smoke is a split hose, you could also try removing the synergy go back to stock and see how it runs then with the cheap MAF and or unplug the MAF once back to stock and see if it runs better.
 
If I turn both switches off on the synergy is that the same as unpugging it .
No with the Bosch MAF the synergy needs to be disconnected from the car wiring completely, then test to see how it runs with the MAF then unplugged see what the differences are.

As i stated in a post above the synergy will damaged the HPFP and that will be a bigger cost than the price of a synergy and a lot more work than just removing it from your FL1
 
If I turn both switches off on the synergy is that the same as unpugging it .
Ok I just fitted a new air filter and un
No with the Bosch MAF the synergy needs to be disconnected from the car wiring completely, then test to see how it runs with the MAF then unplugged see what the differences are.

As i stated in a post above the synergy will damaged the HPFP and that will be a bigger cost than the price of a synergy and a lot more work than just removing it from your FL1
unplugged the synergy and connected the maf and it was awful with no throttle response.I unplugged the maf and with the synergy 2 and the with the maf unplugged it is very responsive to the throttle and probably better than when it was connected with the synergy.
I wonder if the ebay maf is absolute garbage, it was only £20.
The back of the top cover on the air filter is not fitting very well with both screws at the back not biting, could this cause an issue with the maf connected Ie effect the air flow somehow.
 
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