P38A V8 Not starting after head gasket change

wammers said:

In post #84 you say it was running fine before you changed head gaskets. Why did you change them? You obviously have little idea what you are doing.

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I think he is doing splendidly, leave him alone oh wise one he hasn't set lite to it yet

D1s, where are you? Without sounding like a d!ck, I think you need some help from someone who know's exactly what they are doing, yet will help as a friend rather than someone who will empty your wallet!

Overheating can be anything from a jammed thermostat to a blocked radiator.

I'm certain some of the guys on here will be happy to help out....

I know I would

I appreciate your help, but at this rate I think I'll just cut my losses and strip it for parts
Thanks for all your help

d1s said:

I appreciate your help, but at this rate I think I'll just cut my losses and strip it for parts
Thanks for all your help

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Before you do that, may I also point out that misfiring will also cause overheating!

Don't give up so easily young D1s, adversity is the greatest teacher

Walk away for a few days, do things you enjoy and treat your loved ones to a few days of the fun you.

Then,l when you want to kick ass, go grab that bloody car by the horns, beep, beep, and show it who's boss.

Trust me, do not kill it as you will regret it

Chill for a few days

d1s said:

I appreciate your help, but at this rate I think I'll just cut my losses and strip it for parts
Thanks for all your help

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I think you have actually fixed it you just didn't connect the leads up properly or fill and bleed the coolant system properly, I replaced my rad today I filled the engine with coolant via the top hose then the rad connected it all up and bleed it for a bit I still ended up putting a hose pipe into the top hose to gentle force all the air out and then did the same to the heater matrix which decided to airlock, all done but it takes a while to get right........go on 1 last go refit the ht leads correctly as per Adams post and refill and bleed it out........job done.

if water isn't coming from the block and the oil isn't emulsifier then you'll be good. water doesn't boil in the system because its under pressure, when its not it will boil. it took me ages to bleed out all the air in the system.

1. you say water was leaking from the block before the HG change. was the head gasket skimmed or checked to make sure it was flat and not warped before going back on ? excess heat will warp the heads on these.

2. when you did the heads did you pull the water pump ?

You got it to the MOT station, it went through an MOT and emissions test without overheating but it overheated on the way home so i would say its holding ok, you just need to keep burping it. you will probably find that the coolant level will work down over say 200 miles and keep topping it up as the airlocks work out. the heater matrix is, as BTD says, the big one.

You have to remember that the RR is a heavy, luxury 4x4 with big lump under the bonnet, it's no Ford KA.

you're getting there..

On the motronic there's a loom that runs from the back to the front under the manifold. More often than not thgis loom gets trapped & damaged. If you're not used to stripping or rebuilding the thor engines this may be the cause.

If these things get an airlock on refilling it can be a sod to get out.

Or valley gasket not sealed?