I need your help, Freelander 1 not starting. Immobilizer?

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GWOA

New Member
Posts
9
Location
South Lappland, Sweden
Hi all!
Well, I recently bought a 2000 Freelander 1 with the L-Series diesel. It had hardly any power from the beginning and after I did some research, I went on a search today with my modest skills (I'm not a mechanic!). I had found some ideas that I wanted to pursue. Then I discovered that one of the thin hoses at the bottom of the turbo was not connected. After I had fixed that, I went straight to the test drive. And you won't belive the problem was solved! :) I had power again. I was so proud of myself, I can't tell you. Then I "cleaned" some other things in the engine compartment and it happened: A wrench slipped down on the alternator. Exactly on the connection of the Plus cable. Now I also know what the rubber cover is for, which I found on the sumpguard when changing the oil.... So of course it sparked briefly, because the wrench was on the connection of the alternator and a line (from the air conditioning?). After a second I took it away again, but something must have broken in the process. So what's the situation: I can open and lock with the remote control. When locking, the red light on the dashboard flashes first quickly and then slowly after some time. When I unlock the door, the little red light goes out and the doors open normally. So everything is quite normal, except for one thing: The turn signals do not light up when locking and also not when unlocking. That was always the case before. When I want to start, not all the lights in the dashboard light up. For example, the symbol for the pre-glow does not turn on. And when I turn the key as if to start, it sounds like I'm unlocking all the doors. In the meantime, I have measured all the fuses I found in the engine compartment and the ones under the steering wheel with the multimeter. The are all ok. Also the large fuses in the engine compartment in the fuse box that you can't change yourself. Of course, I'm not sure if there are other fuses anywhere. So the wrench fell on the alternator, it didn't smoke anywhere or anything. Only of course short sparks at the positive pole of the alternator. So, that's the situation at the moment. I was so incredibly happy that I found the fault because of the poor performance, and now of course I'm devastated. I need the Freelander urgently, my Defender is in winter storage in a rented warm garage. I'm sitting here at 64° North in Swedish Lapland with a population density of 0.2 people per square kilometre. And as written, I'm not a mechanic. What I can't do myself ends up in the fact that I have to have the car delivered to a workshop somehow. A probably good workshop is on the coast, which means about 160 km from here. Just a car transporter for me Rent that goes so far probably costs the equivalent of between 800 and 1000 euros here, said a friend of mine here. What I would like to know now: Is there hope or can I forget about it? What do you think could have been broken? Would a repair probably exceed the value of the Freelander? Thank you in advance for your ideas. So thanks again and kind regards from Lapland, Christian
 
When my L Series started strange misbehaving starts it was due to electrical spikes.

I disconnected the battey for 20 minutes to let the ecus clear and reset themselves. It was fine after that.

Good luck.
Thank you for your idea! I had the same idea, and disconnectet the battery already. But probably way to short. It was just about 2 minutes. I will give it another chance, cross my fingers that would be heaven if it works!!!!
 
I believe that the alternator is connected to the battery via a 150 amp "maxi fuse". Maybe that fuse has blown?
To me this also sounds like a battery problem. A wrench shorting the alternator wire to ground would be an absolutely massive current, way more than batteries are designed for. Maybe it's damaged the battery.
 
I believe that the alternator is connected to the battery via a 150 amp "maxi fuse". Maybe that fuse has blown?
To me this also sounds like a battery problem. A wrench shorting the alternator wire to ground would be an absolutely massive current, way more than batteries are designed for. Maybe it's damaged the battery.
Thank you very much for your reply! So I have an update: I disconnected the battery for an hour and then connectet it back in. That didn't help. Then I measured with the multimeter: At the positive pole of the alternator 4.2 volts, and at the large fuse (120 A) for the alternator it is 8.8 volts. And then when I looked closely that exactly this fuse blew!!! In addition, at position 2 of the ignition lock, the battery lamp is off, the engine control lamp and, as previously written, also the preheating lamp. Is it all connected to this fuse? Possibly this 120 A fuse the whole problem? And now my next question, is this a special Land Rover fuse, or can I get it at a garage for Volvo for example? (The closest LR dealer is about 600 km away) Thank you all so much for your help! /Christian
 

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The 120A fuse is the main feed to the ignition switch and then on to many functions...

I have posted the circuit.

Any 120 A fuse that fits will be fine.20250327_135734.jpg
 
Thank you all again for your answers!!! That gives me really hope again!!!!
So I will try to get such a fuse and hope for the very best... If I got one (not so easy here and in my situation) I will report directly if that was the sollution. Thank you all so much for your help!
/Christian
 

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Thank you all again for your answers!!! That gives me really hope again!!!!
So I will try to get such a fuse and hope for the very best... If I got one (not so easy here and in my situation) I will report directly if that was the sollution. Thank you all so much for your help!
/Christian

Lovely pic.
Dogs seem more reliable than a FL at the moment :D.

Is that you off to get a fuse:D.

J
 
At 8.8V then you battery also needs charging if it is not damaged.
When I test the battery directly with the multimeter it is 12,7 V. The battery is pretty new, about 4 month old. The former owner thought at first that the battery was bad and replaced it. But in the end the alternator was the problem, so this was replaced as well...
 
Lovely pic.
Dogs seem more reliable than a FL at the moment :D.

Is that you off to get a fuse:D.

J
Thank you! At least the dog's don't need fuses... ;-) I wished I would know so much about cars as I do about dogs and probably snowmobiles...
 

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Thank you all again for your answers!!! That gives me really hope again!!!!
So I will try to get such a fuse and hope for the very best... If I got one (not so easy here and in my situation) I will report directly if that was the sollution. Thank you all so much for your help!
/Christian
Give me the dogs and that scenery over my LR any day!
 
Then I measured with the multimeter: At the positive pole of the alternator 4.2 volts, and at the large fuse (120 A) for the alternator it is 8.8 volts
Need to find out why it is 8.8 V at the fuse. If battery is 12.7 V. Maybe a bad battery terminal or loose ??

Good luck on your fuse hunt.
 
Thank you! At least the dog's don't need fuses... ;-) I wished I would know so much about cars as I do about dogs and probably snowmobiles...
That's an awesome pack you have there.

Hope the fuse sorts the problems. Great call from @pscan.eu

Please accept my appologies for saying this is a great thread... as its causing you grief....

But its part of what makes LZ so great and I keep coming back.... you 'meet' all sorts of people from all over the world who share such awesome nuggets of their lives and what their Landies, Freelanders, are up to.

Hope you stick around, especially as you have an L Series Freelander, there's not so many floating around these days. Its fantastic to see one 'living' in that environment. Its probably a perfect environment for a F1... the 'road' surface isn't exactly 'grippy' so less chance of chewing its transmission up!

By the way, if you are new to Freelanders, and are not aware of the need for a VCU in good working condition and matching tyres, please have a read of this thread...

 
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