Hello Again! (SOLVED, Engine replacement)

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So we got this going,

Engine was removed and we started the conversion on the replacement engine.

For anyone wondering there are a few things for a wasted spark to distributor conversion and I'll probably make a separate thread with a lot more detail but the distributor valve cover MUST be used as the wasted spark one has slightly different layouts that would make it incompatible or at least not as reliable or along those lines.

But in short the conversion was great! Went really well got the engine back together nicely with no issues.

New distributor
New clutch
New pressure plate
New release bearing
New crank pulley
New belts
New spark plugs

Got all the accessories over.
Alternator
Tensioners that weren't replaced
Checked for cracks on the flywheel honestly overall a nice experience started about 12:30 had the engine ready to go in about 3pm

But then that's where we had issues getting the engine in took about 30 mins but then trying to get it to align to the gearbox was IMPOSSIBLE over 5 hours shimmying it this way then way the raise and lower then push and pull, no matter what I tired to clutch would not spline into the clutch... to be sure I've said it yes I've tried turning the crank to align the holes but they won't and now it's really close but won't go in but I cannot turn the crank like its held on but still won't spline in!

Am I missing something? Is it worth dismantling the whole engine bay gearbox ird etc to the be able to shimmy the gearbox onto the engine instead or any other tips? Because I really don't want to do that 😅

Thank you!
 
Good call above, did you try the plate on the splines before fitting, hopefully you have the correct plate.
Sometimes when you come back to it you can get it to align. Only needs the engine to be half inch too high or low to stop it going in.
Fingers crossed for you
 
Has to be 100% square on.

When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in.

Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Has to be 100% square on.

When I had a problem in the past I measure distance between engine plate and bellhousing, so the gap. It needs to be same all the way around then should push in.

Not too much force and don't put strain on the input shaft of gearbox.
Click to expand...
My thought was as i can't see the splines on the Gear box I'm thinking of getting an endoscope then looking through the starter hole to align it correctly. Thoughts?
 
She's Back! This is going to be a big post.... 😅

> This is when the engine was running and no longer pi**ing oil everywhere.

We finally got 'er running again, she initially had a slight misfire but my buddy placed HT leads 3 and 4 in the wrong places once that was sorted she ran smoooooth only a slight exhaust leak as we forgot to install the exhaust gasket but that easily fixed.

The Engine in there now will need a flush, upon dismantling it to convert from wasted spark to Distributor we could see the oil was old and clumpy so removed as much as possible and cleaned all the parts we could, replaced all service items and continued on, will need a number of premature oil changes to ensure we do not have accelerated wear.

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As for preventing HGF as often as possible, once started we have agreed to let the temp gauge get either halfway up before moving or fully up to temp not sure if that is over doing it though?

As usual massive thanks to @andyfreelandy for the engine on the spot!

The conversion to wasted spark is much more complicated than expected though, I will be sure to make another thread on how I converted it with pictures in case anyone or me needs to do it in the future as it is a little different than just cam swapping.
xDParis64 said:
My thought was as i can't see the splines on the Gear box I'm thinking of getting an endoscope then looking through the starter hole to align it correctly. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
This kind of worked however as I mentioned in HTR's post the gearbox should line up, it turns out we were having the exact same issue as HTR was with the plate between the IRD and Gearbox, dropping everything worked much better and probably with the faff of the plate was quicker even though that meaned removing almost the entire front end but once that was done the new clutch pressure plate throw-out bearing was all installed and gearbox back on, IRD installed ready to assemble.

I didn't get many pictures as the sun was going down and we were putting as together as we could before we lost the sun.

Can't forget that spectacular moment where it wasn't firing and I thought it was ruined 😂 The Crank position sensor was not plugged in. Also thanks again @andyfreelandy managed to replace the gearbox sensor that had snapped nice and easy!

Once run for the first time though we found that upon not tightening the oil filter housing the engine was throwing oil everywhere and really not firing right > Found that it was the HT Leads being in the wrong place and the oil housing as said.

But after all is said and done, it runs, I now need to give 'er some Gearbox Oil and IRD Oil of which I believe gear oil I can use 75w80 oil and for the IRD I am not sure what I used last time I did the gearbox replacement. but I think they are both 1.1L of oil or the IRD is 1.1L and the gearbox 2.1L? if anyone can confirm for me.

But thank you all for your help, it has been amazing!
 
A question if anyone can answer

I need to replace the washers on the Gearbox and IRD however I cannot find any part numbers for this anywhere! not reliably anyway, they all say sump washer but the gearbox and IRD are leaking since last replacement as I couldn't find washers back then either!

Any help would be appreciated
 
andyfreelandy said:
Just measure and buy suitable size aluminium or copper washers.
Click to expand...
xDParis64 said:
A question if anyone can answer

I need to replace the washers on the Gearbox and IRD however I cannot find any part numbers for this anywhere! not reliably anyway, they all say sump washer but the gearbox and IRD are leaking since last replacement as I couldn't find washers back then either!

Any help would be appreciated
Click to expand...
Or Dowty washers of the correct size, which seal oil fittings much better than normal crush washers, so don't need to be done up silly tight.
 
So upon my other thread getting it started, I may have just forgotten how the clutch feels as haven't driven her in 5 or 6 months but the clutch pedal now it is all back together feels very.... Smooth, It's weird to say I know as that means it's good, but I never changed the fluid.

I know the clutch is working as with the front's in the air and the wheels off I can lift the clutch slight until they spin and then press it again, note there is not gearbox oil hence I am being incredibly careful and not putting it under almost any load.

But it feels like the clutch is super smooth, could this be that there is no pressure on it as the prop is off and the wheels off the floor with no actual wheel attached? I will be testing it this weekend with oil in it anyway but thought I should check here?

To explain what I mean by smooth, with all other cars I have driven the clutch pressure goes something like, Easy then more pressure then when you get to the bottom it gets easy again, could it be the brand new clutch that is installed? I've never driven one with a brand new clutch/friction disc 😂
 
I'd expect an end of life clutch to drive the wheels when there's no load on it. The only true way to test it's working correctly, is for it to actually drive the car down the road. The gearbox will be fine without oil, if it's only spinning the shafts. It's only going to get damaged if it's actually taking load without oil.
 
Finally got it all back together and on her first drive there were some noises most fixed by a simple loose bolt but one in particular which is a very loud grinding from the front.

Upon inspection the exhaust was grinding on the prop where it attaches to the IRD, we couldn't figure out why so we removed the prop to avoid it continuing to happen but upon driving its still happening so I got the fronts in the air spun one wheel and the other does not... but they both spin the prop the issue is that when spinning the right hand wheel it is fine spins freely and no issues but the left hand wheel is quite hard to turn and clicks 2-3 times per full rotation, considering she is lifted +50mm on the fronts the driveshafts are under huge load is it likely to be that? I have some videos :) I should note it also squeaks like metal on metal .



And



Note the squeak sounds like it is coming from the wheel side not the gearbox

Thanks
 
That don't sound right !!

It does sound wheel or brake or bearing related. Not a bent disc shield hitting summat? Wheel looks very stiff to turn.

Might be worth popping driveshaft out and checking the hub without it fitted.
 
With that much noise, get someone to out hand around shaft joints. Then turn wheel. They will feel it even if they are asleep if that bad!!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
That don't sound right !!

It does sound wheel or brake or bearing related. Not a bent disc shield hitting summat? Wheel looks very stiff to turn.

Might be worth popping driveshaft out and checking the hub without it fitted.
Click to expand...
Yeah I checked the brake discs first but that side I ripped it off almost 6 month ago haha!

Will be removing the driveshaft by the sounds of it and just having a look, it did come up on the mot a while ago but we shall see, it's weird I was test driving it took off on a round about felt like the car stayed still for a second then clunk and it started moving
andyfreelandy said:
With that much noise, get someone to out hand around shaft joints. Then turn wheel. They will feel it even if they are asleep if that bad!!!
Click to expand...
Will get this done hopefully today but we shall see, by turn do you mean spin or actually turn left/ right
 
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