td6,no reverse.please help.

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Sounds like your original issue (as discussed here : l322,td6-no reverse.) has developed further, into something even more serious.

The symptoms that you’re describing now are similar to those resulting from the front propshaft spline wear problem, which eventually got sorted by Service Action Q041 back in the day. You definitely can’t see either propshaft turning when the vehicle is stationary and in gear, can you?

Frontsplinefailure_zps873af822.jpg


PropshaftSplineUpdate_zps5848092c.jpg


Phil
 
Im 95% sure mine has the later propshaft,its difficult at moment as car is on grass front drive,cant raise suspension and very wet lawn(Scotland)its weird though as only last week it was moving forward,but now its not,also there was no noise last week.i now have this terrible grinding and no movement.if it is the front prop failure,how difficult and costly to repair,originally it would not reverse,does this sound like it could be the propshaft?
thanks phil for your help.
 
will check tomorrow and report back regarding the propshaft turning.im 95%sure this has the later type prop.how costly a repair if it is the front propshaft?is it just a case of removing prop and fitting a new/replacement?
thank you again.
 
From a diagnostic viewpoint I don’t think the issue was that it wouldn’t reverse. The issue was that you were getting forward drive whether you selected D, N or R. Assuming that the gear position indicator on the instrument panel corresponds with the selector lever position, the only reason I can think that might happen is because clutch plates have become welded together in your transmission.

Toast.jpg


A less likely cause is that the valve body assembly manual valve has somehow become disconnected from the detent disc pin, and is stuck in the drive position.

ManualValve.jpg


If you do have clutch plates welded together then a complete transmission rebuild/replacement is required, which will set you back £2k-£2.5k. If you now have propshaft issues on top of that (i.e. even more cost) it may not be economic to repair your driveline.

Phil
 
urrm not good,oh well I will take it on the chin,not the end of the world.dont really know where to go from here.first range rover and probably the last.loss of 5k.
thank you phil for your help.
 
Sorry to appear so pessimistic. I never owned a TD6 (mine was a 4.4) but from what I’ve heard the engine in it is pretty good. Shame the GM 5L40-E transmission lets it down so badly.

Phil
 
samurai said:
yes ive removed fuse 37,it makes a loud crunching when I select any gear,no drive.think i might sell it on.ive lost all hope with it.
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If it went within 6 months of buying it from a trader then they are responsible for the engine and gearbox unless they can prove you wrecked it. That's EU law that still applies at the moment.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If it went within 6 months of buying it from a trader then they are responsible for the engine and gearbox unless they can prove you wrecked it. That's EU law that still applies at the moment.
Click to expand...
its been a bit longer now than 6 months,i contacted the garage,(swift motors)3 days before the 6months of ownership and he basically said im not paying for any repair,said he would get it fixed at cost price if I got the car back to him.
 
samurai said:
Im in Scotland,going to contact trading standards on Monday and see where we go.
Click to expand...
if I start car in neutral and flick high/low switch the car rocks back and forth but will not go anywhere,i can hear a scraping/churning noise,when I flick the high/low switch noise goes and car rocks back and forth,any ideas guys.
 
samurai said:
if I start car in neutral and flick high/low switch the car rocks back and forth but will not go anywhere,i can hear a scraping/churning noise,when I flick the high/low switch noise goes and car rocks back and forth,any ideas guys.
Click to expand...
Leave it alone until you know what the garage are going to do, you may be causing more damage.
 
Sounds to me like it is stuck in d and the grinding is the tbox unable to get in high or low because you aren't in neutral. Did you try manually moving the lever on the gearbox yet?
 
Kev12 said:
Sounds to me like it is stuck in d and the grinding is the tbox unable to get in high or low because you aren't in neutral. Did you try manually moving the lever on the gearbox yet?
Click to expand...
Not yet,im a bit wary about being under a car with engine running in gear,also the bloomin thing is on my grass lawn and difficult to get under it-got a few fault codes after battry went flat,suspension and hdc inactive,so cant raise the thing.
 
samurai said:
Not yet,im a bit wary about being under a car with engine running in gear,also the bloomin thing is on my grass lawn and difficult to get under it-got a few fault codes after battry went flat,suspension and hdc inactive,so cant raise the thing.
Click to expand...
can I just remove the transfer box motor and see if works without it?when changing gear,the gear changes correspond to the on dash gears.
 
samurai said:
can I just remove the transfer box motor and see if works without it?when changing gear,the gear changes correspond to the on dash gears.
Click to expand...
Why? You have put a fuse in#37 which puts the transfer box in neutral so any grinding points to the gearbox. As Bemble gave the possible causes I think its time to return it to the garage that sold it to you.
 
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