Some pics of my Disco :D

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discomark10 said:
me? no, only had a lil go at it, need a better heat source, ive only got a small blow torch
Click to expand...
was after the flux you used, as a mate is doing a maserati and the original joints and repairs were leaded.
best i've found so far is fryolux, but there dont seem to be much info on the net about it, tho there are some vids of people doing it.
seems to be another dying skill.
 
interested in the 4 aero catch idea as i had thought about it, but would like to be able to keep the hinges for quick jobs, water,oil checks etc rather than removing bonnet.
 
use the hinge plates as mounting for the rear bonnet pins, i'll get some pics up later but im planning to fix the rear hinge plates with bolts to the bulkhead and then use them to mount the pins.

im worried that with moveable hinge plates there will be too much wobble available, but you might be able to engineer it to work if you put blocks under the hinge plates, then press the bonnet down tight onto them etc, this could work with a bit of messing about and thus achieve the 4 catches with hinge idea you are after, although it wont be as secure as having the hinge plates bolted down secure.

however it may be of interest that if you simply undo the 4 catches and lift the front up you can still tilt the bonnet without the hinges and use the original bonnet prop, it simply sits on the scuttle panel.

i will use this feature regularly, it will only come off when we need better access for work, cleaning, a wind break for a fire and/or a kitchen table/shelter when out camping :D
 
JoelC said:
Hi mate,

Where did you get the battery cable / clamps / split charge system from?

J
Click to expand...

Cable was off eBay a few years back, was from an audio install I had in a couple of cars back then. It's just AWG 4 pro power cable, can still be bought off eBay. Guy I was buying off was called Xtreme Audio, quality equipment without the ridiculous price of the big brands.

Clamps are from Halfords, were £12 each a few years back, probably double now!

Split charge system is a 120A durite relay off eBay or vehicle wiring products, and a couple of MegaFuses plus holders, same applies.

Don't hesitate to ask if you need more info.

Cheers :)
 
So here's another Ta daaa moment for y'all:

F9A84412-2DC3-41C3-B2A3-57AB7DDEA446-1162-0000003C62D4B2AC.jpg


Aerocatches now fitted! Bit of a struggle but not too bad, probs 8 hours work!

The fronts are simply mounted through slam panel but rears are mounted here:

D7979EEC-A340-422B-9922-52A91C43C7EC-1162-0000003E7719DC6A.jpg


Ingenious! :D

Also tonight I finally got round to making my split charge system work more sensibly!

I realised today that my car being a 200 is very simply wired, power goes direct to the starter, then from the starter to a bulkhead fitting, where it meets the big wire from the alternator and then goes inside to the one and only fuse board.

I had been wanting to separate my auxiliary circuits for ages but it is a faff. I realised that all I have to do is disconnect the big wire in between the bulkhead fitting and the starter and make up a longer one to go to my second battery (I took it to the spilt charge relay actually cos its closer)

The principle now is that only the starter is connected to that primary battery. In fact it is no longer a primary battery, it is a starter battery.

The downside is that if I drain the 'main' battery completely (which is also connected to the winch) then I won't have enough power to even engage the starter solenoid.

It is however unlikely that I would drain the battery so flat that there would be no ignition or anything.

If this were to happen all I have to do is connect a crocodile clip or a pair of pliers across the split charge relay to give enough current to power the starter solenoid, the ecu etc, and the fully charged starter battery then spins the engine over no trouble.

Much better than before where the starter current has to pass through the split charge wiring etc if you need to self jump start!

Here's a quick pic so you get the idea of the bulkhead fitting, you can see the wires coming and going:

7FFF8868-173F-4F2F-B393-F52A45576166-1162-0000003E631CA2CD.jpg


Cheers :)
 
Ps. The ideal situation is to have the starter, ecu, fuel pump and ignition coil wired to the starter battery and everything else to the main battery.

One day I'd like to custom wire the car so the loom can accommodate all the mods, but that's for a very rainy day :D

Cheers!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Ps. The ideal situation is to have the starter, ecu, fuel pump and ignition coil wired to the starter battery and everything else to the main battery.

One day I'd like to custom wire the car so the loom can accommodate all the mods, but that's for a very rainy day :D

Cheers!
Click to expand...

it wont be as hard as you think, run power To a second fause box inside and move the required Wires to that from the old one
 
Hi mark :)

Yeah not a difficult task at all but never as easy as when the dashboard is stripped out. Obviously from the addition of lights, heated screen, laptop, air lockers, winch control, rev counter, battery monitors, cb, blah blah blah there is a lot of fairly untidy wiring behind the confines of the dash!!

I eventually would like to remove the dash, open up the looms and the adjust as necessary to make a custom loom for my needs :)

The bonnets catches are Aerocatch Plus Flush non locking, approx 90 quid for the lot delivered, from demon tweeks. Couple of places sell them and indeed slightly cheaper on eBay but I have an account at demon tweeks so it was easy enough to just pick up the phone.

I would recommend the backing plates at an extra £8 for a pair, MUCH easier than fiddling with the bloody tiny nuts!!
 
looks really well definately on my to do list mainly for access and cleaning like yourself..iv just installled my winch so ned to get a split charge system
, is your way simple enough oh and cheaper than a kit lol.
 
So!

715B4807-369F-492D-934F-FCEEFFC66025-7211-00000311FB302241.jpg


D680887D-95C9-489C-B251-5D6DB9689E6C-9148-0000041E36850F47.jpg


661BB301-CB78-47CA-9C4E-30678E2782FB-9148-0000041E66E8B40D.jpg


82C84BD8-1A35-4326-93CD-A26DE089DFE1-9148-0000041E6FA656C6.jpg


CC8EAF7F-2971-48E4-80D8-7DAD3E661E12-9148-0000041E7BD48D82.jpg


C46B9E77-B432-41AF-8098-6F4AFA9254D3-11109-00000546B1E66A8A.jpg


352EEA0C-C7E9-46C1-BA25-04B3C01E787E-11109-0000054C3701C0A5.jpg


A64BC10C-4F6D-4319-B9A9-B0A1AFE41DEB-14486-0000075078E07630.jpg


It has started going back together now! Please note there is lots of work going on here that isn't necessarily megasquirt specific, for instance the new heater!
 
Old one ****e, takes up too much space, general PITA and it is open to the outside.

Gonna block up the bulkhead hole, and only run this to the demist with simple on/off switch.

Will be just what I need and leave lots of room behind the dash for my wiring, switches and fuses.

By the way, look what just arrived!

02FF7F38-21C0-4E43-8816-B7344363EC9E-15057-00000775F493C080.jpg


The gap is for the 3 ARB locker switches and the two blanks are intentional!!
 
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