Series King Cab

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jamesmartin said:
all parts were available from lr ,since they used to make the short bell housing box
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Yeah but just wondering who's made those parts! If its a good make I'll buy the cheaper ones

If not Ashcroft is £424 inc VAT and express delivery, unless my local indy gets a discount buying through them or no postage cost in which case I may get them to order it for me


Do I need to buy a puller if I do this conversion ?
 
jai_landrover said:
Yay!!! Sense!!
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It may seem we're busting your ass but trying to help you with getting it done the best way[/QUOTE]

Kinda ;) axle is still going ahead as I've got the parts for it


Reckon that axle on a short gearbox with a good length prop and those 35's it'll be pretty unstoppable


I think Chris still has my V8 adaptor plate so I'll buy that back off him, engine is staying forward as it gives me a longer rear prop and will put the front one at a decent length too
 
Dr_evil said:
Sam just pointed out ashcroft take part exs……..wonder how much a good series box and LT95 would be worth against a fully built R380 or the parts I need
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£3.50

I had a pile of LT77's I mean a pile maybe 7 of them not interested in the slightest I live 5 mins from ashcroft I weighed in a couple of boxes this morning
 
Dr_evil said:
Yeah but just wondering who's made those parts! If its a good make I'll buy the cheaper ones

If not Ashcroft is £424 inc VAT and express delivery, unless my local indy gets a discount buying through them or no postage cost in which case I may get them to order it for me


Do I need to buy a puller if I do this conversion ?
Click to expand...

you need to remove seal collar from rear of r380 pullers may well be needed for that , and slacken 32mm L/S nut to allow enough movement to part both shafts to allow inputs to be swapped, and slide hammer tool to retrieve your old ukcl8 bearing race from old input to fit in new or puller to remove rller part from end of mainshaft,same with front input bearing(rtc6751)
 
jamesmartin said:
you need to remove seal collar from rear of r380 pullers may well be needed for that , and slacken 32mm L/S nut to allow enough movement to part both shafts to allow inputs to be swapped, and slide hammer tool to retrieve your old ukcl8 bearing race from old input to fit in new or puller to remove roller part from end of mainshaft,same with front input bearing(rtc6751)
Click to expand...

Hmmm I may be able to borrow a puller or is there a way you can do without ?

32mm nut isn't a problem, gives me a chance to use those new King Dick spanners I got theres a 32mm in the mix

Slide hammer I can make up I suppose and the bearings I'll save, don't want to buy new ones if I can help it seeing as my box is brand new
 
Scrappy is a good place to shop, I got my Woden vice from there for £20 and its a big one!



Anyway found out the length of the stumpy bellhousing 4" :eek: tiny thing! Gonna measure up the long one tomorrow. Add in two inches for the conversion plate
 
Right have a plan for the spigot bush issue, local machine shop does surface grinding so I can give it to them and have them skim a few mm off it on the cylindrical or I suppose I could do this at uni using the same machine, the spigot on the 300tdi is 7/8th internal and the spigot on the V8 is something like 3/4s so compared to the 7/8ths I'll have to lose a bit of the OD on the shaft

Either that or I make up a thin walled spigot bush but I'd rather not have to do that as a 2.25mm wall thickness on a spigot bush probably isn't a great thing
 
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Dr_evil said:
apparently these are the dimensions


Defender R380 question? - Page 2 - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum


Looks like I'll get a big saving in prop length! A whole 5.5" which is a lot on a prop shaft, that'd be near enough standard length series prop on my set up with the engine moved forward if not longer :D

FFS I hate myself.
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its the same difference between def lt77 and disco lt77, theres only a certain thickness you can reach with the bronze spigot bush before it crumbles , ive seen copper used,you only have any movement in bush when clutch pedal is pressed
 
discomark10 said:
Ide turn the shaft imo, wont that difficult. What material is it?
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Steel but its hardened hence wanting to use the grinder instead of the lathe plus with grinder it'd be super smooth!

jamesmartin said:
its the same difference between def lt77 and disco lt77, theres only a certain thickness you can reach with the bronze spigot bush before it crumbles , ive seen copper used,you only have any movement in bush when clutch pedal is pressed
Click to expand...

Yeah I had to make one out of standard bronze last time as it would take it unlike phosphor bronze

Copper sounds good though or possibly ally ?

As long as its softer than the other metals really
 
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