jai_landrover
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My series box had the input shaft reduced to fit a rover v8 spigot seen more than a few trailers using series boxes without anything at all and a few copper ones.
Series King Cab
- Thread starter Dr_evil
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Dr_evil
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would rather have one in it than not though, currently dismantling the boxes
discomark10
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just bare in mind copper is a C**T to turn
Dr_evil
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ally isn't though
Dr_evil
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Transfer half out……ffs hating this thing again
Dr_evil
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transfer is out and on the floor…..clutch slave out next then the gearbox
Dr_evil
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Gearbox out, gonna bring it inside and start dismantling, sold the series box too so thats a bit of cash back towards conversion parts 
stupid thing!
But on the plus side calculated the prop angle and we're down to a 30* max now so if I pack the axle with 1" worth of spacer plate I'll be fine and it wont make sweet F all difference to my diff clearance over standard thanks to those 35's!
stupid thing! But on the plus side calculated the prop angle and we're down to a 30* max now
so if I pack the axle with 1" worth of spacer plate I'll be fine and it wont make sweet F all difference to my diff clearance over standard thanks to those 35's!
Dr_evil
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Gearbox out and now in the house, gonna start stripping it in a bit
Dr_evil
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Stupid question how do I get the input shaft out ?
Does it come out the back of the casing or out of the front ?
Does it come out the back of the casing or out of the front ?
Dr_evil
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Nevermind sorted, gonna start stripping it
flat
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is that aperture for the rad big enough its not going to be like a permanent rad muff is it? you not going for the T shaped one like on the originals?
Dr_evil
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It'll be cut bigger, but gearbox is being sorted first!
Having a bit of trouble removing the rear oil seal collar as I don't have the special tool…….wonder if I can punch the seal through into the box and not bother removing the collar and then just replace the 30p seal ?
Having a bit of trouble removing the rear oil seal collar as I don't have the special tool…….wonder if I can punch the seal through into the box and not bother removing the collar and then just replace the 30p seal ?
jamesmartin
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no, it will go a little but will then hit rear support roller bearing,collar has to come off, if you remove front case and can pull shafts apart enough to fit pinion box needs rebuilding anyhow then ,so collar has to come off
Dr_evil
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What else do I need other than the oil seal and ashcroft parts to rebuild after separating ?
Thor1950
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The knowledge to do it right
Dr_evil
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fcuk off and go be unhelpful somewhere else
:boink:
owl
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No you will need to remove the collar and they are tight, also there is a special tool for pressing the collar back on and don't push it in too far or you won't be able to get it out again.
Dr_evil
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Decided I'm going to take it into the indy LR garage tomorrow and have them do it for me. Taken off bellhousing and cracked all the 12pt bolts with help from those nice imperial spanners I picked up!
I'll strip it after that then bring in the layshaft to get cracked and then again when it comes time for the new output seal
Dr_evil
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Plan for this week then…….which I'm going to attempt to keep to
Monday get indy to strip box, order gearbox parts through indy plus a defender pedal for accelerator, pick up new gearbox mounting crossmember
Tuesday collect parts if arrived if not weds, fit rad, wire in electric fan, rivet in more tub repair panels and possibly collect gearbox adaptor plate
Wednesday collect parts, assemble box, attempt to turn down a new spigot bush on lathe
Thursday re do clutch with new bush and try to fit gearbox and transfer if theres time
Friday finish fitting gearbox and transfer if I haven't already then weld in the new mounts
Saturday fit accelerator pedal and hopefully my fuel unions will have turned up by then too so I can finish off the swirl pot and mount it in the rear tub
Sunday fill rad and bleed the system I suppose
Gotta get a shift on now! With this gearbox I can fit a standard prop so I'll be able to run it
Gotta toughen up the seatbox again week after as well as a mount to the chassis but the rest is now solid thanks to many ally panels and a few rivets plus M4 bolts!
Monday get indy to strip box, order gearbox parts through indy plus a defender pedal for accelerator, pick up new gearbox mounting crossmember
Tuesday collect parts if arrived if not weds, fit rad, wire in electric fan, rivet in more tub repair panels and possibly collect gearbox adaptor plate
Wednesday collect parts, assemble box, attempt to turn down a new spigot bush on lathe
Thursday re do clutch with new bush and try to fit gearbox and transfer if theres time
Friday finish fitting gearbox and transfer if I haven't already then weld in the new mounts
Saturday fit accelerator pedal and hopefully my fuel unions will have turned up by then too so I can finish off the swirl pot and mount it in the rear tub
Sunday fill rad and bleed the system I suppose
Gotta get a shift on now! With this gearbox I can fit a standard prop so I'll be able to run it
Gotta toughen up the seatbox again week after as well as a mount to the chassis but the rest is now solid thanks to many ally panels and a few rivets plus M4 bolts!
