battenberg
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have you got a part number for the seals?
Sedimeter
- Thread starter Tom79
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stretchie_
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I rang Pete at Christian Autos in Bristol (+44 117 960 1443) and he knew what I wanted and sorted it out
Part number for the seals I THINK is AAU9902-3
Part number for the seals I THINK is AAU9902-3
The head on the top bolt of my sedimentor has corroded and rounded off.
If I manage to get a replacement bolt and grind off the head of the one already in the sedimentor does anyone know whether the unit will open up, or would it still be threaded together with the shaft of the bolt??
If I manage to get a replacement bolt and grind off the head of the one already in the sedimentor does anyone know whether the unit will open up, or would it still be threaded together with the shaft of the bolt??
stretchie_
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I think it would still hold it in place
Got a dremel??
Got a dremel??
nicedayforit
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If you grind off the 11mm bolt head off the top of the sedimentor the bowl will come off as normal.
Undoing the 11mm bolt usually allows you to withdraw it if you wish before undoing the bowl.
Thanks, if you're 100% sure on that will lop it off this eve..
nicedayforit
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The bolt just passes through the body of the sedimentor and screws into the bowl itself. Tightening the bolt clamps the bowl to the body and compresses the bowl seal.
Just go for it!
thebiglad
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Cleaning out the fuel sedimenter is part of regular servicing but due to it's position on the vehicle it often gets overlooked, which is a shame and potentially a source of poor fuelling.
Don't both with that daft plastic tap, always take the whole unit off and clean.
Don't both with that daft plastic tap, always take the whole unit off and clean.
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Quite agree.
Solved a few little 'niggles', like occasional erratic slow-speed, on my Disco when I cleaned it out, and now I clean regularly .. for the few quid a time for the o-rings it's worth it! Clean it every time I change filters etc, as in fact it is a filter so needs similar care, IMHO.
if you grind off the bolt then you might as well throw the lot away, just under the head of the bolt is a hollow with a rubber seal on it,
breakers
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just cleaned mine and I was really disappointed to find only a tiny bit of crub in the bottom and the rest pure diesel, still I suppose I should be happy. Instructions really helped and even for me it only took 20 mins. cheers everyone
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****in stealers! Went in to get sealing rings......
Sorry sir - yu have to buy 20 of one and 10 of the other!!!!!!wot do they think i am doing - servicing the British army? Anyone know where i can get 1 of each?
Sorry sir - yu have to buy 20 of one and 10 of the other!!!!!!wot do they think i am doing - servicing the British army? Anyone know where i can get 1 of each?
breakers
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I got mine from foundary 4x4, not sure if the postage would make it to expensive though.
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cant find em anywhere - anyone got the part numbers?
pete5570
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The haynes manual states every year or 12k, but on older models i would do it every time i change the oil etc.
Dent
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Think the large one is the same size as the fuel filter .
thebiglad
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To be honest I've done this several times on each of the 4 TDI Discos we've had and I never replaced any of the seals - and never had any leaks afterwards.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
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having listened to you guys - thought I would have a go without seals.
I found I could not remove completely the top bolt, so a new seal there isnt much good (might have to remove the complete unit).
An open ended 11mm spanner is needed to undo the top compression bolt (think Oil filter - i is similar).
I did not (as recomended) touch the bottom drain screw, although it might be a good idea to replace with a bolt, for future use - a new drain screw is about £3.50.
Here is a pictorial guide.......
1) identify sedimenter (drivers side, inside rear chassis rail, in line with nose of diff)
2) this is a better shot of the sedimenter and particularly the top (which you cant see) showing the 11mm clamp bolt. I found it a good idea to gently hand wire brush the outside, so that less crud fell on you or in the bowl or on the mating seal.
3) this is a view with the sedimenter bowl removed, showing the internal "Rose" - i wiped it clean. Gentle tapping with a wire brush handle was necessary to loosen the bowl.
4) view with "Rose" removed - you can see the position of the sealing ring clearly here.
5) this is what the inside of the sedimenter looked like after I had removed it (and poured half the contents up my sleeve - use a plastic bag to cover the bowl before removal).
6) what was at the bottom of the sedimenter bowl after the liquid crud was emptied out. You will, of course dispose of the contents in an environmentally way?
7) wipe out the bowl with a few paper towels....
8) after washing and brushing in petrol.....
9) after refitting - dont overtighten the clamp screw.
10) a view of the (cleaned) sedimenter after fitting - the "drain" screw can be easily seen. Do not touch it unless you want to replace it.
hope that helps you guys - was deffo worth it, as you can see. I would suggest doing it more frequently - its so easy - even I did it
- Q now - will it leak - if so - its a trip to Keith Gott for seals n stuff (they will post).good luck
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