Rattleguns Series Rebuild

I got a few questions

The suspension main bolts/shackles are not tight at the moment, as the weight of the full vehicle isn't on yet. Do they all tighten up super tight? The threaded shackles, with a locknut on top in effect, made me think they could be set so the shackle moves freely back and fore? That would seem to make sense as it needs to move to allow the suspension to compress. It would make the bolts rotate in the bush though, which doesn't sound a great thing from an engineering point of view? Or do they just tighten up to buggery and twist the rubber in the bush (like it was)?

At the moment I've got the rolling chassis as you've seen it, do you reckon engine and box is the next best step - then props etc? I thought about doing the brake lines but the 4 way splitter goes really close to the bulkhead. I don't want to fnd out after it's in the wrong place There isn't a mounting tab on this chassis yet for it. Also, the front to rear brake pipe I took off ran along the chassis with the fuel pipe beside the gearbox but I've heard that it should run directly on top of the chassis rail, is that right you reckon?

On mine the brake pipe ran along the side of the chassis with the diesel fuel pipes on top of the chassis by the gearbox.

Righto, started looking deeper at the motor this weekend. As I said earlier, I picked it up for 60 quid and was advertised as 'low mileage' (aren't they all) but it was worth a punt. It's a 5 bearing motor (you can tell from the red colour and the criss cross of webs cast into it just above the sump line) and is from a 24 volt lightweight. It's got an interesting distributor that has braided covers and what looks like plumbing fittings on the ends to attach to the spark plugs, to shield the radio system from interference. I'll probably convert it to a regular distributor/HT leads.

Head came off easily and is quite coked up, everything is clean otherwise and not seized/rusty. There's no perceptible ridge in the bores and they're not scored so things were looking up. After getting the distribooter out all is not well with the cam though

There's a great deal of wear on the lobe, the roller is worn into it quite deep leaving a ridge around the side:



The engine has a very tough looking system of rollers that sit on the cam which push up brass followers which operate the pushrods. No wonder these engines run and run, even when well worn out they work smoothly. Looking through the access ports on the side, you can see more wear and the rollers are all pitted too:



I want to get the front pulley off and the flywheel so I can get it onto an engine stand. That's a bit tough now it's out of the truck as the crank needs locking to undo the bolts etc. Spun it over on the floor, I had drained it but there's plenty of fluids left inside, look like a horror scene



Sump came off easily, lovely and clean inside! The sump had quite a bit of fibrous muck in it though:





Oil pump came out with 2 bolts:



Its drive shaft then pulls out with a satisfying sucking sound:



God it looks really simple in there, there's hardly anything in it, the axle looked more complicated than the engine guts. Had to get a couple of bearing caps off to see if this engine was going to be ok, here's #2 main bearing:



Looks good to me what do you think?? Bearing shells are smooth all the way round with no wear through of the bearing surface and the crank journal is smooth all the way across with no scoring. There's discolouration in the centre where the oil channel is in the bearing shell, but no perceptible change in feel compared to the outer surfaces.

Here's a big end:



What do you think? Same condition as the mains really, no heavy wear spots and bearings totally uniform and smooth. The journal looks worse in the pics than real life I think, it feels smooth as glass and with a fingernail you can't feel any scoring/ridges. Do you reckon these will be good with set of new shells?

Time to get the flywheel and gearbox plate off, a rubber handled hammer chucked in the crankcase locks the crank:



Here's the Haynes style description of removing the flywheel:

1. Undo 6 flywheel retaining bolts
2. Remove circular bolt plate
2. Remove Flywheel and store safely

Here's mine:

1. Remove 6 flywheel retaining bolts by putting hammer in engine and heaving on breaker bar on each bolt, attempt to stop engine rolling around workshop by sitting on engine, wedging feet under it, or let it dig into your shins.

2. Watch hitherto unseen metal plate roll into darkest spider infested corner of workshop.

3. Wiggle flywheel, feels a little loose so should just pull off. Insert fingers around ring gear and pull firmly.

4. Optomistically push bits of torn skin back into knuckles as flywheel pops off onto them and your feet.

5. Drag away



After that the gearbox plate was easy, just a few bolts, note late model large oil seal and O ring:



Now that's off I can get it on an engine stand and work with some civility I hope. I need to get the crank pulley off but doesn't look straightforward with this military attachment in the way. It's to help you find the starting dog easily by funnelling the starter handle in. Every bit helps when you're trying to start your land rover with a handle while someone is shooting at you I guess. I think I'll cut it off. The nut measures 41.15 mm across the flats, is that a 42mm socket size you think? Not sure if these later ones are metric or not...

Turns out a 1 & 5/8" socket/spanner is 41.28mm across flats so maybe that's the one...

Use a cheap impact gun for the flywheel bolt. The clarkes one I got undid the bolt when I was just trying it out, hadn't even locked the flywheel. And it was a bolt that broke my 2' breaker bar a couple of days previously.
Journals and shells look ok but you should really check them with plastigauge or equivalent.

Great thread and pics mate

sorry to go off topic but what make and pattern are the original tyres ?

avon rangemasters ? .....

Thanks dude. The original tyres in the first pic? They were Deestone remoulds, I can't remember the exact name sorry. I know I tried to buy more but couldn't find any.

Rattlegun said:

Thanks dude. The original tyres in the first pic? They were Deestone remoulds, I can't remember the exact name sorry. I know I tried to buy more but couldn't find any.

Click to expand...

thanks anyway

looking forward to the rest of your re-build

A grand job :tea:

SpringDon said:

Use a cheap impact gun for the flywheel bolt. The clarkes one I got undid the bolt when I was just trying it out, hadn't even locked the flywheel. And it was a bolt that broke my 2' breaker bar a couple of days previously.
Journals and shells look ok but you should really check them with plastigauge or equivalent.

Click to expand...

Good idea that. I've got a cheap one, will try it for the crank pulley nut maybe. From what I've read I've got a scaffold pole on standby.

Rattlegun said:

Good idea that. I've got a cheap one, will try it for the crank pulley nut maybe. From what I've read I've got a scaffold pole on standby.

Click to expand...

Yes, I used it for the crank aswell. Someone on here explained that the impact gun uses a shocking effect and not just torque so it seems like things move a lot easier.

Picked up an engine stand locally on eBay so will get what's left of the motor on that this week. Back at Site 1 there's not much left so will get on with the bodywork there. It's nice to have a break from oily bits!

I think getting all the panels and tub sorted and painted will be a big thing, I've got a big room at work I can use at the weekend so can spray everything there all in one go (that's the plan).

I picked up the new rear seats on a trip to England, very nice landscape around Glastonbury, will have to come back for a look around. Here's how they should fit when it's all done:

that platform must be a pretty cool play area for the kids, bet they love it up there

Looking good fella, keep it up, kids look happy

The little boogers know when I'm trying to sneak off to the shed! They've got pretty good at climbing the ladder

Got the motor on its stand today with a bit of ingenious use of the trailers jockey wheel to lift it up to the stand. I've ordered a 41mm socket for the crank pulley as its a late metric engine, breaking out the metric socket set to work on it makes it seem modern!

Looks like the kids will be very happy back there. The best part is how ever loud they scream, you wont get pi***d off with em, the one bonus with a noisey land rover! Also, a good idea with the engine, when i put an engine on the stand, it was in the back of my little van, and that was just the right height to bolt straigt onto the stand, thats luck for you! Still looking good, i look forward to more progress!

Jordan

This week I have mostly been dismantling the engine, cylinder head and ancilliaries already removed:



Remove the small bolts on the side of the block and the tappet rollers and followers will fall out. After usually lock wiring the bolts in place for forty years, Land Rover couldn't be arsed by 1983.





After that you can pull out the outer part:



The distributor drive is held in by a grub screw on the oil filter mounting flange, was hidden under the gasket in my case!



Spinning the motor back over to remove the big end bearing caps, pistons and conrods can then slide out of the block:



The combustion gas hasn't got to the skirt it seems but the oil ring was a little coked up. You can see how soft and delicate the bearing shell material is in the next pic, I used the rounded end of a socket extension to push out the conrod and piston and it left a deep mark in the shell (only moderate pressure). They'll all be renewed of course:



All the shells were otherwise undamaged except the one below which had just started wearing through:



After cutting the military starter funnel, I used the rattle gun with impact socket, I even videoed that!

Bolt - YouTube

The pulley popped right off too, this is the view under the cover, all seems in order:



Tensioner and chain removed:



Remove the two bolts holding the cam plate and out it comes:



Check out the massive cam wear, this engine must have been running pretty poorly, the valve lift looks halved:



Main bearing caps can then come off:



Out with the crank and that's about it, all empty:



Cylinder head cleaned up:





I've found a local place that will rebore it for £60 which is great, a proper mancave style engineers Ill ask them to replace the valve guides too as there's a noticeable play in each of the valves. So into the Multipla it goes, engine stand is useful again!

That engine stand looks like a great tool to have
Great work so far

Looking good mate keep up the work

Wow, keep the pictures coming. Were all the cam lobes that poorly?

I've got a similar engine stand and not used it yet...looking forward to giving it a go. Good luck getting the dissy drive back in, remember that being a right bugger last time, but on a stand like you've got it should be a piece of ****.

While you've got it apart it might be an idea to consider ACR's (or somebody else's) higher compression head for better mileage....

D