Rattleguns Series Rebuild

Gearbox assembly

I've recently finished putting the box back together, not that it takes a long time really, just been avoiding it in case I'd forgotten where things go.

This is the mainshaft as it came out of the box and all the cogs and wot nots threaded onto a piece of wire:



The 1st/2nd synchro unit was the one that had lost its teeth, quite a few actually. It's supposed to be able to flip flop back and forth on the springs and balls that go between the inner and outer unit. The springs in this unit were all bent and it didn't move correctly. The box would have been awful if this hadn't been fixed:





The box and transfer case then got separated and torn down, no other damage was found. The front output bearing was a bit rough I thought so ordered one of those as well as the 5 gearbox bearings. I got a Britpart kit for £20 or so which had all the bearings but as soon as I felt them I knew it would be a terrible mistake to fit them having come this far, they felt quite rough and gritty and had no makers marks. I spent about £90 at LRDirect on quality branded ones and they felt perfect. The new synchro system was £40 from a seller in Cyprus, brand new genuine part. I did use a Britpart gasket set, but it had a vital one missing so got a Bearmach one too!

I looked at quite a few gearbox rebuild threads and pages before doing this but they made no sense, it may as well have been the inside of the space shuttle, all those cogs, glackets and foofoo valves, couldn't get a picture of what was going on. It all looks straightforward when you're in there though. I was lucky having a 2nd box which I stripped in parallel so I could see what was going on. If you've got 30 quid I'd recommend picking one up just to strip down and have a look at, it's not hard at all.

Putting it together, starting with the front output housing, this is where the 4wd selector mechanism lives:



Front output bearing (RLS10) slips into place quite easily and is retained by the output housing:



A new oil seal fits into the housing before it goes in:



This is whats on the inside, that toothed sprocket engages with the 4wd selector cup to give you 4wd:



The selector cup which is pulled over the front output shaft by the selector rods:



The selector rods, I didn't mess with these, Haynes doesnt recommend it and theres no reason to:



Corrosion on the end of the rods where they fit through the aluminium case, this is what causes lack of selection of 4wd if not used often. I cleaned up both faces and greased liberally:



Rods and 4wd cup installed, the teeth in the cup have a lot of distance between them to give lots of backlash and reduce the effects of windup in the transmission:



The transfer case ready to recieve the 4wd housing, I didn't dissasemble this any further than shown as it was all running smoothly, just put a new oil seal in the rear output:





Oh yeah, before sliding it in, have the high/low range selector fork in place in the transfer case, then insert and tighten it's securing bolt once its all in place, it can only be attached at one point so no stress.



That's the 4wd selector and transfer case pretty much done till the main box is ready! Not that bad was it?

Rattlegun said:

Good idea not to disturb the rest I think, diesels seem to be a bugger to set up if dismantled. What's a 2.5 cover like that makes it different?

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I'm not entirely sure! but from what I've read if I keep it fitted I would need a spacer for the pulley so the alternator belt to align and also fit the more expensive 2.5 model water pump (which I think has a different bottom hose diameter too). based upon this I thought it probably best to change back to the original cover. The PO bought the engine on 1983 and put it in his Series 1. The engine cover was changed I believe to allow for an extra pulley as he fitted power steering (Rangy P38 pump).

Main Gearbox

The main box is quite small really, this is the case before dissassembly, nothing to it:



Putting it back together, starting with the layshaft. There's a roller bearing and race pressed on the end, I chewed the roller cage off with some snips to just leave the race on the end of the shaft, which pulled off easily with a simple puller:



New bearing and race:



Gently tapped on:



The lower bearing race in the rear of the box is where this goes and has to be replaced, luckily, on later boxes theres 2 holes on the outside that let you tap it out:





Mine came out quite easily, no heat required.

The gaping hole above is the mainshaft output bearing, it fits into a housing first and is secured by a huge circlip, you need circlip pliers at least a foot long or dont bother:



This housing then goes through from the inside out and secures with another huge circlip with massive low earth orbit potential:





Note the new oil seal fitted in the transfer box side of that bearing carrier also. The bearing should be fitted with adhesive on the outer race to stop it spinning in the housing, I think I did.

Look at all these bits, where do they go?? Had a bit of a wobble for 5 mins, all I can see is gearbox bits.



Shafts:

Reassembling the main shaft with bits as they come off the wire including the new synchro unit:





NOTE, the thrust washer on the end is upside down in the pic below! The manual said it should go stepped side outwards so I thought that's the way it should be and I'd forgotten when I took it off the wire. Something made me think it was wrong though as these are the oil channels that line up with the grooves on the bronze bush to move oil around. Having another look, the other side has a small step on it which pushes against the bearing. I put it on the right way before assembly. Shaft endfloat is measured between this washer and the bush below as per the manual.




Finished shafts:



Shafts placed in the box:



3rd/4th synchro slid in place (careful, it has a recess in the splines on one side which must go in towards the box first to fit over 3rd gear correctly). Input pinion roller bearing slips over the end now also.



Almost there! The bellhousing need prepping and then they can go together. New bearings fitted under the clamps in the bellhousing:



Input shaft goes in from the gearbox side and secures with a circlip and washer:



Now put your hand up the bellhousing and your fingers through the layshaft bearing and distance piece, put the layshaft gear on it in mesh with the pinion above, bring the bellhousing to the gearbox and put your other hand between the two, meshing and twisting all the shafts together till it all slides into place and bolt together (with gasket). That happens a lot easier than it sounds!!



The oil shield, output gear and stupid nut and lockwasher can then go on the end. You won't be able to tighten it very well yet:



See the gear above the box on the bench, I almost fainted when I saw that, just when I took the pic. It's only the old 1/2 synchro thank God, not a left over gear!

The Selectors can go in now, reverse first which is quite easy, make sure it goes over the flange on the reverse idler though, at first I just had it behind and it seemed to be working ok. 1st/2nd goes in next and just slips over the flange on the 1/2 synchro. 3rd/4th is last and is the hardest, pull the big gold synchro into 3rd gear (towards you) and turn the selector shaft 90 degrees and wiggle into and over the black flange on the synchro. Much easier than it sounds, really:



New O rings at the front and selector detents in the right place then on goes the cover!



That's the main box done, not too hard at all really.

Final Transmission Assembly

Point of no return now as up till now all the units are easy to lift, once the parts go tegether it'll weigh quite a lot! Stood on its bellhousing and the transfer box lifted on top, bolts easily accessible through the massive sump hole, and inspection cover hole:





Now insert the intermediate gear with its roller bearings and thrust washers, then slide it's massive shaft in from the top:



Fit a new O ring on that shaft from the gasket kit and lock the shaft in place with the small metal tab and nut:



Fit sump plate:



Pretty much done!! Refit inspection covers (more painting) and whatnot and mainshaft end cap casting (where the overdrive would go):



New O ring on the high low selector shaft:



Refurbed tin cover fitted with sealant over the other shafts:



Brake actuator, what a well engineered little thing, a linear cam, 2 little rollers and pistons (90 degrees out in this pic), all in a little alloy casting. Cleaned out, regreased and fitted to the backplate, the adjuster is similar with a conical headed bolt and sloped piston bits:



Adjuster:



Fitted up on backplate:



That's nearly everything in place ready to fit the transmission to the engine. Just got to fit the mounting brackets on, clutch gubbins and output flange (awaiting new prop bolts to arrive). I hope to fit it the whole engine/transmission in the chassis very soon!

Excellent write up...making me feel a lot easier about doing my gearbox...if I ever get the bloody chance to get near the garage!

Looking good Glyn. I almost lost the will to live getting the layshaft back in my case; that inner race on the end just wouldn't go into the outer race in the case. it took me about 2 hours just to do that bit, but then I am a ham-fisted git.

Did you loctite the layshaft nut on the end? Also, this isn't my idea (I think it's Owl's) but using a liberal amount of loctite on the bearing at the end of the mainsaft can stop it spinning in the case. Mine had been doing this and losing oil between the two.

Good luck on the rest of it, photos are awesome by the way keep them coming.

Thanks guys. No I forgot the Loctite on the layshaft bolt Al, hope that doesn't come back to haunt me!

Here's an up to date update of todays adventures though. Transporting the engine from it's dungeon at Site 3 to Site 2 for mating with the gearbox and putting on/in the chassis.

Taking the whole thing from underground to outside for transferring to the trailer, the boy is helping but think he has cold hands:



Getting chains on the lift points so the engine stand can come off:



Tying down, I thought the blocks of wood would keep the nicely painted sump off the deck but they came loose a few miles later so took them out, nevermind:



Chassis out of the garage and engine in, the gearbox is in the van ready to come out:



Now that it's off the engine stand the flywheel housing and flywheel and clutch can go on. Theres a large seal that needs pressing/tapping into the housing, it has a plastic protector that keeps the lip of the seal safe:



... and an O ring in the back:



Grease the crank flange and then push it all into place, the plastic protector will be displaced towards you and the seal should be nicely installed over the crank without damaging it:



..and it's done:



8 bolts hold it to the block:



Flywheel on with 8 bolts and the metal ring:



Clutch next, the codger used the input shaft from the other gearbox to line it all up:



The release arm and bearing are already on the box so we just had to stand holding it either side and slide it on, I hand it in 4th high with my hand on the output flange so could wiggle it back and forth to get it to line up, took about 30 seconds of wiggling and pushing but it popped on and the bellhousing nuts and bolts were done up, great stuff.



The complete engine transmission unit, we work out the balance point for lifting so you don't have to (twisted shackles though):



As this was a replacement chassis built in the Series 2 style it has large webs on the engine crossmember, these are much smaller on a series 3 because the clutch slave cylinder is down there (not because the box is bigger because of synchromesh as some internet sources say, that's bollocks). Here I've cut one web down with the grinder and am about to do the one behind:



Bringing the chassis back in under the transmission unit:




Then just lower it onto it's mounts!












That was it for today, gave the chassis a bit of a wash then as it was looking a bit mucky and painted up the cut edges. Props and handbrake next, maybe this week..

wow that is a lot of cracking pics I too had been wondering if you had taken a break. looking good, can't wait to see it finished

Wow you have put some effort into the thread with all them pic's, I know how long it takes.
The motor is coming on nicely too, it's going to be one smart series when it's done.

Really impressive - and useful reference for the future for everyone.

Looking good when you get round to fitting steering relay put the top holding bolts in from rear, I did not and had to loosen and lift rad panel when I needed to remove to service.

Love this rebuild, I usually hate series but this thread has changed things!!!

Thanks for your comments, it's good to know it's being enjoyed or useful! I felt a bit down after the weekend as it seems there's so much more to do still. So I thought the best thing was go out in the cold and get on with some more! It never seems so bad once you've started and the tools come out.

I started the bulkhead back in the summer so this week I got it back out and hung it up in the shed to try and get it finished, I'd like to get it finished and blasted/galvanised asap. I feel another picture story coming on!

Good thread, Loads of good pics Keep up the good work. Makes me want another project though

Rattlegun said:

Thanks for your comments, it's good to know it's being enjoyed or useful! I felt a bit down after the weekend as it seems there's so much more to do still. So I thought the best thing was go out in the cold and get on with some more! It never seems so bad once you've started and the tools come out.

I started the bulkhead back in the summer so this week I got it back out and hung it up in the shed to try and get it finished, I'd like to get it finished and blasted/galvanised asap. I feel another picture story coming on!

Click to expand...

I have a big build on the go and I try not to think about how much work is left as like you it gets me down, I just concentrate on the next job and try and enjoy doing that. It is surprising when you look back at how far you have got over the last few months, plus looking to finish makes you rush and cut corners. Finishing is not the be all and end all.
It's good to have an end to look forward to but it is the journey that matters in the end.

Thanks o wise owl, I'll remember that Top advice. I've been looking at your build thread and it's very impressive, you must have iron will to keep going on it!

wish I had the balls and the know how to rip my gearbox and engine apart :O)

"There are known knowns; there are things we know that we know.
There are known unknowns; that is to say, there are things that we now know we don't know.
But there are also unknown unknowns – there are things we do not know we don't know.”

United States Secretary of Defense, Donald Rumsfeld

I put the transmission drum on last night and thought I better check how the transmission brake shoes go on, I'd guessed at a certain way based on the shadows left from how they were previously fitted. I'd fitted all the shoes on the vehicle in a matching pattern (so each shoe is a mirror of the other). It turns out that this isn't right for the transmission brake (and also some of the Single cylinder rear brakes on some models). Luckily I think the brakes I've already done are correct.

Basically, the lining material is not in the centre of the shoe but nearer to one end of it than the other, on the transmission brake these fit alternately so that the top shoe has it's lining away from the actuator side and that bottom has it near to the actuator side. You can see the position of the linings in the pic below, the top one has an inch and a half or so of shoe showing before the lining starts, but not the lower one:



Something to think about!

I thought I'd treat myself to 2 new props as they existing were really rusty and I didn't have a big enthusiasm for rebuilding 4 UJ's. Put them on last night with new bolts and am all chuffed again as things look 'connected together' now

joe27979 said:

wish I had the balls and the know how to rip my gearbox and engine apart :O)

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You have been this week eh!

The BULKHEAD!

After the chassis, most Landies and their rebuilds seem to be all about the bulkhead, it's a motley collection of steel pressings, piled together and spot welded up with dozens of rust traps, it's a wonder they last as long as they do. We started work on it back in the summer. Here's the bulkhead as it came off:









All good up top but rusty footwells, with a few patches and bodges in the past so just a straightforward footwell replacement. Up on the frame, there's a piece of wood bolted between the mounting points in the feet to make sure the distance stays the same when the footwells are removed:





Footwells were cut out using the angle grinder, pretty much along the original lines, with the door pillar left as was and a 'finger' of footwell left pointing down at the top as it has a good reinforcement bit on it to secure the new footwell to:







The footwells are from ebay seller/maker 'lescr' and are excellent items, more expensive than the britpart ones but they fit nearly perfectly. They have all the holes in the right places and are also properly double skinned where the pedals mount like the originals so they don't flex. They have the ribs in the footwells too. Quick trial fit:



The inside edge of the passenger footwell was also rusted and needed a bit welding in (I've borrowed a MIG welder, but not used one before so don't take any of the following as good practice!).

I used a cheap Joggler from machine mart to put a step in the steel so the steel could be welded overlapping without leaving a step:






That's as far as it got with it back in the summer, we got it back out yesterday and started with a cardboard template for the missing steel:



Transferred to a bit of steel and corners folded over in the vice:



Clamped into place, good fit:



A few tack welds on the back to keep it in place:



and a bead on the other side:



I told you I was new to welding! When ground back and the holes filled in a bit more the surface is totally flush:



The bulkhead was drilled every 30mm or so as the bulkheads were to be welded in with puddle welds. Very helpful tutorials and info at mig welding uk forum.

The puddle welds will look a lot like the original spot welds (and are easier to do!).



Puddling up, a couple of nuts and bolts help hold it in place whilst welding:





The nice thick bulkhead metal made the welding really easy, just point and fill, point and fill. It all feels very solid and within an hour it's all done!! Only a few holes went awry, mainly due to the top layer of metal not touching the one underneath so I soon got into the habit of tapping it down with a hammer as it went along.



So that's it done, it wasn't too hard at all, just like everything else on the land rover so far. Just plod along, cutting, cleaning, chopping, drilling, welding. The metal is very forgiving and if it doesn't quite fit, you can give it a good whack and it still looks ok afterwards!

It'll be off to the blasters along with a load of other bits and then will all be galvanised. I'll have to think about painting then, I'm still not sure of the colour...