Possible Heater Matrix problem?

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I found out when driving back from the gym this evening that the "De-Mist" button still blows how hot heat (not at a great speed, but fixes mist on the windshield). After 10 minutes it also makes the car relatively warm.

Also the heated windscreens still seem to work. Its just the main vents that come towards the passenger, feet and face area ones that dont work. Also I cant control the fan speed.
 
Sounds like Blend Motors on the Distribution Flaps could be up the swanny....

Do you have the little 'Handbook' symbol on the display?

The Blend Motors, are the devices that open and close flaps to either mix hot or cold air, or to change the distribution path i.e. face, feet, windows, or a combination.

They are notorious for packing up....trouble is changing them is a pig (I am currently researching how to do them as mine need doing too)

Get it on a fault code reader and see if the HEVAC is throwing up any codes....
 
Sounds like Blend Motors on the Distribution Flaps could be up the swanny....

Do you have the little 'Handbook' symbol on the display?

The Blend Motors, are the devices that open and close flaps to either mix hot or cold air, or to change the distribution path i.e. face, feet, windows, or a combination.

They are notorious for packing up....trouble is changing them is a pig (I am currently researching how to do them as mine need doing too)

Get it on a fault code reader and see if the HEVAC is throwing up any codes....

Yes! It has the handbook symbol, but its next to the temp on the display so I presumed it was something to do with that.

What is a fault code reader?
 
A Fault Code Reader is a device that plugs into the car diagnostic socket and interrogates the system ECUs for any stored faults.

Some are cheap and cheerfull and only tell you the code number which you will have to look up in the Code Lists for what it means, then clear the faults in the memory.

Others in the mid price range (£200-£350 mark) will decypher the codes for you, beable to clear the faults in the memory and do minor setup tweaks.

The top of the range units will allow you full and complete access to all the systems, and allow you to override certain sensers to test if a component is actually working, calibrate sensers and read live data etc....but these are closer to the £600+ mark.

Look up details of the Bearmach Hawkeye, Blackbox Solutions Faultmate FCR and MVS systems, and of course the RSW Solutions offerings, although this one is limited on the P38 at the moment, but Stoney Wilson is working on it....(and the guy is a bloody genius if you ask me..!!)
 
A Fault Code Reader is a device that plugs into the car diagnostic socket and interrogates the system ECUs for any stored faults.

Some are cheap and cheerfull and only tell you the code number which you will have to look up in the Code Lists for what it means, then clear the faults in the memory.

Others in the mid price range (£200-£350 mark) will decypher the codes for you, beable to clear the faults in the memory and do minor setup tweaks.

The top of the range units will allow you full and complete access to all the systems, and allow you to override certain sensers to test if a component is actually working, calibrate sensers and read live data etc....but these are closer to the £600+ mark.

Look up details of the Bearmach Hawkeye, Blackbox Solutions Faultmate FCR and MVS systems, and of course the RSW Solutions offerings, although this one is limited on the P38 at the moment, but Stoney Wilson is working on it....(and the guy is a bloody genius if you ask me..!!)

Bloody Hell! I thought these cars were meant to be super easy to fix/maintain! haha my old car was so much easier and the only things that could possibly go wrong on it were oil, water and windscreen wash :D

May have to look into the fault code reader, although I dont exactly have a lot of cash floating around at the moment after this, especially at 19.
 
The P38 was easily a £40K car when it came out, if not more....and it still comes with £40K car running costs even if you can pick them up for peanuts....

They are a complex beast, and in many eyes, overly complex....but you wouldn't be without one.
 
That took me about 2 hours, but I FINALLY managed to get the side panels off and under the steering wheel. I unscrewed the HVAC and looked behind it, but everything was plugged in. I disconnect and conencted the plugs but it still sadly didnt make the heater work.

I put all the side panels back on after. I'm stumped to as what this could be?! How would I find out of it was the blend motors? I'm tempted to take this to the local garage and see if they can have a look at it, but I know it will probably equal a MASSIVE bill. :( :( :(
 
with new seals takes about 50 mins on average ( lets just say ive done a fair few now lol ) remove both dash side trims ( 2 screws lift trims out from the ide of the gear trim and with hand near to the bend of the pannel push firmly down they will unclick and come out ) remove the 4 screws holding the hevac unit in situe and with the ignition off remove all the plugs and make sure there is now water or damaged pins plug them all in and out a few times asnormaly this is just a bad connection on the hevac unit its self. if the heater core temp sensor has been left disconnected then the blowers will still work just temp side of things wont work aswell as it should.

Hi Stoney, as you have done quite a few 'O' Rings now. What is the technique you use?
 
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