Heater Matrix Removal RHD P38

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
pete12345 said:
I’ve you,ve taken old one out just replace it with the Audi one no o rings to worry about in the future same as paulp38 did
Click to expand...
That's fair comment yes.. my thoughts too, but I'm going to have to make some short pipes to fit over the aluminium ones, or just extend them through the bulkhead.. and I simply struggle with my back being under there.. so will be going with standard fit.
I had contemplated it though yes thanks.
Also too, leak tests will be performed without the antifreeze initially, yes!
Titch
 
Hi Folks,
where does the 'seal' go on this matrix? I cant see any evidence on the old one I took out??
Does it go on last before reassembly?? I can't get my 'Rave' working on the laptop yet so but hoping there would be a 'picture' on there that may help.. would anyone have access to this and would be kind enough to pop a picture back here for me please?
NOT the O rings though, the seal that looks like draught excluder I'm meaning?
Thanks,
Titch
 
TITCH SANDERS said:
Hi Folks,
where does the 'seal' go on this matrix? I cant see any evidence on the old one I took out??
Does it go on last before reassembly?? I can't get my 'Rave' working on the laptop yet so but hoping there would be a 'picture' on there that may help.. would anyone have access to this and would be kind enough to pop a picture back here for me please?
NOT the O rings though, the seal that looks like draught excluder I'm meaning?
Thanks,
Titch
Click to expand...
Goes round the matrix where it fits into the slot.
 
When doing matrix, to limit mess, remove the two hose clamps in engine bay and seal (can connect together with suitable adapter, clamps etc to get out of jail). Blow air into one end of pipes at firewall to get most of the coolant out the other pipe. This should minimise the coolant left in the matrix/pipes inside the car... a towel should catch the rest. I also replaced the screw with a M5 hex head bolt (approx 20mm from memory) to make it easier to remove next time. Beware NOT tightening bolt too much. I would run it a bit and check for leaks before buttoning all up again. I had a little weep after a day or so and just nipped it up (hex head made it easier - also easier to over-tighten so exercise CAUTION)
 
Last edited:
Thanks on that.. yes I had considered using a small M5 bolt.. but.. I went for the Nissen matrix in the end.. not having to worry about the bolt in the centre 'pulling' the aluminium bracket and the O rings to perform a seal.. I can't see it being that effective unless it was a larger bracket with more screws to help it all evenly pull the aluminium round the O rings to seal.
Also, no O rings to worry about using the Nissen one, simply tubes with 'jubilee' clips.
It was dry anyway in there as had bypass fitted to stop any water going into the matrix, for some months at that!
Yes too, I have been testing for a few miles now.. no leaks now so I'll feel confident of my 're-assembl;y' hopefully this weekend.
All I can advise folk on fitting ANY new matrix, is to have a 'Bucket' alongside you.. Nee SWEAR Bucket.. you'll make a fortune out of yourself!!
Titch
 
Bucket can be avoided by blowing most of water out the pipes from firewall :)

Yes considered longer bolt with a large washer to even but decided against with what was available. I did get a tiny weep/wetness at o-rings hence nipped it up after a day or so.

I also tested matrix prior to install.

Got a nissen (xx30 model) if this LR matrix does not work and modified bracket to ensure dash does not have to come out the next time. Original lasted a zillion years so lets see.
 
TITCH SANDERS said:
Thanks on that.. yes I had considered using a small M5 bolt.. but.. I went for the Nissen matrix in the end.. not having to worry about the bolt in the centre 'pulling' the aluminium bracket and the O rings to perform a seal.. I can't see it being that effective unless it was a larger bracket with more screws to help it all evenly pull the aluminium round the O rings to seal.
Also, no O rings to worry about using the Nissen one, simply tubes with 'jubilee' clips.
It was dry anyway in there as had bypass fitted to stop any water going into the matrix, for some months at that!
Yes too, I have been testing for a few miles now.. no leaks now so I'll feel confident of my 're-assembl;y' hopefully this weekend.
All I can advise folk on fitting ANY new matrix, is to have a 'Bucket' alongside you.. Nee SWEAR Bucket.. you'll make a fortune out of yourself!!
Titch
Click to expand...

I found the jubilee clips loosened after a few weeks with the rubber settling and the heat cycles. Nipped them up and been fine since.
 
Yes, same with the single bolt. Never like to overtighten something. Hence prefer to to verify and nip it up whenever possible. It would have been trivial for LR to design so it clamps evenly. Suspect it would have cost them a few more cents per part, perish the thought.

Having said that, the system works within reason....albeit, with idiosyncrasies. Do have an audi - nissens xx730 as a spare in case the new LR one craps itself though.

Like the AUDI solution as it will be less susceptible to movement in the engine bay for example. Did you run new hoses upto the firewall hoses in engine bay? (this is what I plan to do)

Keep us updated
 
Hi Folks,
yes, I've not put too much back together so I still have access to the jubilee clips.. for that very reason.. I'll run it for a few weeks yet so I can keep an eye on it..
Also yes dude, I ran new heater pipe through the firewall/bulkhead, removing the aluminium tubes altogether.. NOT forgetting to fit the sensor on the bottom hose down by the matrix.. relevant to the Hevac operation of course.. that's just cable tied on for now, but again, before all covers/trim goes back on I'll probably clamp that better..
But at least I now have an operating heater albeit the inside of the drivers side isn't very 'tidy' at the moment and we're experiencing some damp mornings & rain of late. I'm so pleased I spent a lot of time swearing doing it now!
Also, don't forget to bleed the water system well.. i did it without the antifreeze in first to check for leaks.. now we are all topped up!
Titch
 
Good to hear! Yes given there is no alloy to attach to, it would be interesting to hear your experience on the temp settings etc in cabin as expect there would be a little variance?
 
Started to do this job today , new nissens matrix arrived yesterday, I had fitted new O rings around 18 months ago maybe further back and I've got a leak again, assuming it is now the original matrix at fault I ordered the nissens one.
Stripped all the necessary bits off but I hadn't cut the dashboard steel bracket yet (I really didn't want to do that but time and the weather is against me), went to undo the screw holding the alloy pipes to the matrix and it wasn't very tight. Maybe I was too cautious tightening it when I did the O rings? Or its worked loose?.
Decided to nip the screw back up, loosely plug in the dash clocks, hvac and switch pack , dried everything off from the leak and fired her up and ran up to temperature and, fingers crossed, no more leak.
Going for a good run tomorrow and I'll recheck for a week or so and button it all back together if it's still dry.
Wish me luck fellow sufferers!
 
Flossie said:
Started to do this job today , new nissens matrix arrived yesterday, I had fitted new O rings around 18 months ago maybe further back and I've got a leak again, assuming it is now the original matrix at fault I ordered the nissens one.
Stripped all the necessary bits off but I hadn't cut the dashboard steel bracket yet (I really didn't want to do that but time and the weather is against me), went to undo the screw holding the alloy pipes to the matrix and it wasn't very tight. Maybe I was too cautious tightening it when I did the O rings? Or its worked loose?.
Decided to nip the screw back up, loosely plug in the dash clocks, hvac and switch pack , dried everything off from the leak and fired her up and ran up to temperature and, fingers crossed, no more leak.
Going for a good run tomorrow and I'll recheck for a week or so and button it all back together if it's still dry.
Wish me luck fellow sufferers!
Click to expand...
My replacement O rings have lasted for 12 or 13 years so I will happily wish you luck with yours. the screw does need to be good and tight.
 
No leak yay!
While it was raining I decided to come up with something better to join the 2 halves of the cut ducting, cut when I did the O rings a while back. Bike inner tube cut open down its length and glued together smaller than what it had to go over so it was a stretch to get it on.
20231101_095840.jpg
20231101_135651.jpg
 
Flossie said:
No leak yay!
While it was raining I decided to come up with something better to join the 2 halves of the cut ducting, cut when I did the O rings a while back. Bike inner tube cut open down its length and glued together smaller than what it had to go over so it was a stretch to get it on.
View attachment 301564View attachment 301565
Click to expand...
Brilliant, could be factory.:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Series three heater matrix blowing cold
Replies
11
Views
700
Citizen Kane
C
TITCH SANDERS
P38 Manual seats to Electric (again)
Replies
19
Views
1K
TITCH SANDERS
TITCH SANDERS
P38 Monkey
P38 heater o-rings: draining tips?
2
Replies
32
Views
1K
P38 Monkey
P38 Monkey
TITCH SANDERS
P38 V8 Thor engined Range Rover 2001 4.0 HSE
Replies
3
Views
1K
TITCH SANDERS
TITCH SANDERS
R
Gearbox cover/tunnel removal?
Replies
6
Views
1K
RiffRaffRevival
R
Back
Top