P38 Oil Pressure Light - How Long Shoult it Stay on?

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Diehard said:
Is it a bitch to change out? For that price I may just ask my indie to do it for me as combind with labour it wouldn't seem that unreasonable.

It was the Indie who suggested pump getting 'lazy' around that milage, although would appear to a very badly designed pump if that was the case. Anyone have any ideas of how long/miles LR would warrenty it for... See what I am thinking here :p

Gonna pop the sump off tomorrow night and check strainer just to be sure, any tips on how to inspect/clean if needed?

P.S. Huge thanks for help!
Click to expand...

Not badly designed, Land rover designed, to last as short a time as they think they can get away with:mad:
 
Read one of your early posts and I see that it has a LPG conversion, so it's a V8.
Put the suspension on high and open the tailgate. Put axle stands under the chassis as a precaution against the body creeping down. If it's a GEMS engine, there is no sump gasket, it's sealed with RTV (Silicone) sealant...see RAVE. If it's a THOR there is a sump gasket, best to obtain this beforehand as there is a probabilty that the old one will be wrecked when you remove the sump.
Drain the oil from the sump. Remove all the M6 bolts and washers from around the sump flange and lower the sump. You may have to gently break the seal on the flange to block mating faces. When the sump has been removed, you will see the strainer on the end of the pick up pipe which is secured with a single bolt. Remove the bolt and then remove the tube assembly complete.
Use a suitable solvent such as White Spirit etc. to thoroughly clean the strainer, the sump, especially the flange and the block faces as they must be oil free before applying the sealant and refitting.
The oil pumps on the P38 petrol are far superior to the older (Pre Cross bolted) V8's and give little trouble.
 
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Get the RTV from a motor factor. It comes in cartridges the same size as ordinary silicone from a diy shop but will be cheaper than a toothpaste sized tube from Halfrauds.
Easier to apply with a silcone gun as well.
TIP**
When you have finished the job, remove the plastic nozzle from the RTV tube, put a small piece of plastic from a carrier bag or similar over the threaded stub on the tube and refit the nozzle...this will prevent the contents from curing so you can use it later when needed.
 
Cheers for that, just had a thought after reading range rovers.net and their comments on priming V8s.

Not had chance to do the strainer yet, however, ive just been having a look under the bonnet and noticed the crank pulley (big one at bottom and centre) has a slight wobble... that cannot be good, could this explain my issues, re: worn main bearings?
 
Diehard said:
Cheers for that, just had a thought after reading range rovers.net and their comments on priming V8s.

Not had chance to do the strainer yet, however, ive just been having a look under the bonnet and noticed the crank pulley (big one at bottom and centre) has a slight wobble... that cannot be good, could this explain my issues, re: worn main bearings?
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Not worn bearings causing that. If the mains were worn enough to cause a crank pulley wobble you would have no oil pressure at all. And the engine would be making some very funny noises. Did you change the switch yet?
 
The "Priming" refers to pre P38 V8's where the pump was mounted outside the block. Used to have to pack it full of Vaseline !!! The P38 pump is driven directly from the Crankshaft and is fitted in the front cover, directly behind the pulley, it is self priming.
The crank pulley is classed as a "Damper", it is not solid steel but made of two steel pieces with a sandwich of rubber holding them together..quite pricey for what they are as well !!!
 
Cheers for the comments, nope not changed the switch yet as wa sa bloody nightmare trying to get a tool too it, so gave up until I can get a crowsfoot socket or similar.

Crank pulley has me concerned tho... still to do strainer but following a chat with the Indies (again) I tried a flush of the engine and no difference, although oil was a silvery crap ur on exit.

Indies has offered to pressure test next week (and fit new switch while I'm at it if ive not done it by then) and gave me a price for supply/fit new pump if needed (which also covers new coolant which was on my list, so crank would be checked too.
 
Just an update, still not changed the switch/cleaned strainer as been too busy, however, made an observation that on a morning, when I come to start the RR the light stays on for about 5 seconds but when leaving work some 9 hours or so after standing, it takes about 10-15 seconds. Only difference I can find is at work I am parked on level ground and at home I park on the curb hence N/S is lower than O/S... this pose any plausable explanation which should aid fault?
 
Ok just got back from garage and had her pressure tested.

Cannot remember the exact pressures but the Indie said with a big grin 'you couldn't ask for better on that' tested at both idle and 2500ish.

Changed switch and so far (fingers crossed) it goes out under a second after start.

I'm hoping that's it then, thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, much in dept to you.
 
Diehard said:
Ok just got back from garage and had her pressure tested.

Cannot remember the exact pressures but the Indie said with a big grin 'you couldn't ask for better on that' tested at both idle and 2500ish.

Changed switch and so far (fingers crossed) it goes out under a second after start.

I'm hoping that's it then, thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, much in dept to you.
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:
Just goes to show that it's usually the simplest of fixes that solve the problem !!!
 
Diehard said:
Ok just got back from garage and had her pressure tested.

Cannot remember the exact pressures but the Indie said with a big grin 'you couldn't ask for better on that' tested at both idle and 2500ish.

Changed switch and so far (fingers crossed) it goes out under a second after start.

I'm hoping that's it then, thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, much in dept to you.
Click to expand...

I did say change switch first. About two weeks ago i think.:):):)
 
wammers said:
I did say change switch first. About two weeks ago i think.:):):)
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I know and I bought it and tried but could I hell get it off :eek: he had a right job too to be honest, although he removed the tensioner etc.

Just wish the same could be said for my diff/VC issues... Got new diff two weeks ago and the VCU was "on it's way out" now they reckon it's buggered the new diff!
 
Ok for those who didn't know, the switch ended up not being the issue :( so after many weeks, more oil changes/flushes, new filters, sump off/strainer removed/cleaned etc etc with no improvement (actually it got worse) I finally had the pump taken off and:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nh5DnOjpNpY&feature=youtube_gdata_player]Range Rover P38 4.0 V8 Oil Pump Broken - YouTube[/ame]

So after around 200 miles or so and numerous starts from cold/hours of standing, I am feeling that she is fixed and the issue is now resolved :D currently running 10W/40 semi which the indie put in and the light goes out within a second or so when stone cold and instantly when warmer, so pretty chuffed.

I had the indie check a couple of big end shells at the same time and although some wear was visible (slight discolouration across the bearings - no copper) they are still all good and the rattle at start up has gone, however, looking at the gear in the video, it would make sense that it was the pump all along.

Many many thanks again to all that helped me and gave advice (ESP Rover and Wammers via PM) I am just chuffed she is finally fixed and hope she stays that way.

Hope my issue/resolution also helps others out in the future, especially as I had no luck with finding anyone else with the same issue over the net (similar but not the same) lol
 
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