P38 Oil Pressure Light - How Long Shoult it Stay on?

Alright,

As per the above really.

Not seen the light stay on since I got her but since temp has dropped last couple of days (bear in mind no lower than 12 degrees C) the light has stayed on for about 10 arcs after starting?

It this normal or is something a miss?

Many thanks in advance.

Diehard

not normal

Ok.. any ideas?

Ok well been reading up on this and confused as hell...

Getting everything from big end gone to faulty switch. Idle has become crap 500-800 however, I put this down to the LPG man having a play with the map when identifying the broken bank of injectors/with a flat spot at 1500 I am thinking MAF.

Would plugging the RR into a diagnostic tell me what's up or is it a case of replacing bits until it goes away?

Btw, I have checked the oil level and it's perfect (engine hot, engine turned off and left to stand for 5mins on level ground) also I have only the token oil leaks that leave a 2p patch every morning

Well just had a bit of a play about with the truck (been sitting since yesterday morning) started, no. nasty noises, rattles etc but light stayed on for around 20 seconds then went off. Stopped for about 5 minutes and restarted, light went straight off before even started ignition.

Question is, does the system maintain pressure between runs, hence would a leak cause the need to re-pressurise? I have noticed a nasty leak from the LH rocker over (below tranny dip stick, but cannot see any other leaks.

It could be a sticking pressure switch or, how old is the oil? Has it been changed regularly? Have you got oil or sludge? If the oil is good then I'd change the switch and if that doesn't work I'd assume that the pump is failing. I say assume because if you don't and the pump fails you'll be kicking yourself as the scrap man tows it away.

Hi, cheers for the reply.

The oil is due a change and plan on doing it next week (after payday). From what I have seen, it's pretty clean in there, although I'll know for sure next weekend.

Just find it strange that it has an issue at cold and then all good once running, if the pump was buggered, I'd expect the light constantly.

only way to tell proper is to instal oil pressure gauge..(good idea anyway)

other causes...oil sender fcuked,oil fcuked,oil strainer blocked,oil filter draining back,oil pump.engine sick..

Ok well I finally got round to changing the oil and filter yesterday, took a couple of picks of the fitler off etc however, all seemed fine and oil was very dark but not slugde etc.

Did get another pressure switch however, coudn't find the location of the old one so didn't install...

Anyways light is still there but litterly for a matter of seconds after engine fires, no more than 4 seconds. Never comes on when driving etc.

Oil pump on its way out then, may invest in a pressure gauge, takes me back to the old buy racer days lol

Let us know how you get along. My guess was going to be the strainer (on Zen's list too). Presume you put in new filter when you changed the oil.

rasheed said:

Let us know how you get along. My guess was going to be the strainer (on Zen's list too). Presume you put in new filter when you changed the oil.

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Yeah put a new Britpart one on, sorry to be ignorant but where is the strainer?

In the sump. Its just a bit of wire netting but can get a bit gummy. How much did you save by choosing a Britpart filter instead of a Coopers or other recognised brand? Not saying you're cheap but a little penny-wise pound-foolish there. A proper filter has to strain the oil while also allowing adequate flow rate. Nobody know how well the cheaper ones do that.

rasheed said:

In the sump. Its just a bit of wire netting but can get a bit gummy. How much did you save by choosing a Britpart filter instead of a Coopers or other recognised brand? Not saying you're cheap but a little penny-wise pound-foolish there. A proper filter has to strain the oil while also allowing adequate flow rate. Nobody know how well the cheaper ones do that.

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Yeah I'm well aware of the 'you get what you pay for' saying, however, I bought it as part of a service pack from island 4x4 and used a similar service pack in past on my DT and was quite happy, I also like to change oil/filters regulary so thought wasn't a bad bet.

May drain the oil and check the strainer then replace, better to narrow down all 'cheap/simple' possibilities.

I reckon your pump is worn, oil drains down overnight and the worn pump takes time to suck the oil back up. Once it is full of oil it works OK.

Datatek said:

I reckon your pump is worn, oil drains down overnight and the worn pump takes time to suck the oil back up. Once it is full of oil it works OK.

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Hmm, ill be keeping my eyes open for another pump too then, did have a wonder if a inadiquate battery may cause it too as the initial cranking over may not be enough to pressureise? My battery definately needs replacing.

The RR had a reconditioned engine fitted by landrover in 2005 at 85k and now done 150800 and I heard pumps die about 65-75k.

Diehard said:

Hmm, ill be keeping my eyes open for another pump too then, did have a wonder if a inadiquate battery may cause it too as the initial cranking over may not be enough to pressureise? My battery definately needs replacing.

The RR had a reconditioned engine fitted by landrover in 2005 at 85k and now done 150800 and I heard pumps die about 65-75k.

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Start engine and when oil light goes out switch it off, as soon as it stops switch ignition back on but only to on position, don't start. Oil light should be out and not come back on for a few seconds. If oil light is on when you switch ignition back on, that shows quick leak down indicating worm crank.

wammers said:

Start engine and when oil light goes out switch it off, as soon as it stops switch ignition back on but only to on position, don't start. Oil light should be out and not come back on for a few seconds. If oil light is on when you switch ignition back on, that shows quick leak down indicating worm crank.

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Cheers Wammers, just gingerly done the test (4 times to be sure lol) and the light stays off for about 2-3 seconds when ignition turned to the 'on' position. So that definately means no crank issues then yes?

Diehard said:

Cheers Wammers, just gingerly done the test (4 times to be sure lol) and the light stays off for about 2-3 seconds when ignition turned to the 'on' position. So that definately means no crank issues then yes?

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The longer it stays off the better the crank. If it was back on when you switched on you would have problems.

Oil Pump repair kit around £65 for the V8. Add a front cover gasket and crank oil seal.
Wouldn't even bother buying second hand at that price !!
Provided the car has had regular oil and filter changes, there is no reason why the pump shouldn't last in excess of 150000+ miles. It's the ****e which causes wear on the rotors...after all they are always lubricated !!

Irishrover said:

Oil Pump repair kit around £65 for the V8. Add a front cover gasket and crank oil seal.
Wouldn't even bother buying second hand at that price !!
Provided the car has had regular oil and filter changes, there is no reason why the pump shouldn't last in excess of 150000+ miles. It's the ****e which causes wear on the rotors...after all they are always lubricated !!

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Is it a bitch to change out? For that price I may just ask my indie to do it for me as combind with labour it wouldn't seem that unreasonable.

It was the Indie who suggested pump getting 'lazy' around that milage, although would appear to a very badly designed pump if that was the case. Anyone have any ideas of how long/miles LR would warrenty it for... See what I am thinking here

Gonna pop the sump off tomorrow night and check strainer just to be sure, any tips on how to inspect/clean if needed?

P.S. Huge thanks for help!