p38 key code lockout stuck on...

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sirniuck said:
Hi People,

First of all I’m new to this forum, so I hope I’m posting this in the right area.

I have a 1995 P38 Range Rover, the ‘Key Code Lockout’ has activated on the dashboard. Now I know how to do the whole EKA procedure, as I have done the procedure many many times over the years. The problem I now have is the message saying ‘Key Code Lockout’ on the dash wont disappear for me to start the EKA sequence. I have made sure all the doors, and tailgate are shut. I have disconnected the battery many times. However it seems to be stuck in ‘Key Code Lockout’ mode…

I would appreciate any suggestions..
Click to expand...

If you put your location in someone might be close and offer help for some liquid refreshment.
 
Its an old thread but this could help others following this thread !

Do a hard reset disconnect both battery terminals and then hold them together with a good connection for 30 seconds reconnect battery and give it a go !
 
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Hello. Came to start the p38 this morn only to find the battery flat as a witches tit. Without even thinking I took the battery of to charge it. Now. My old m reg p38 can have the battery disconnected without problems. I just assumed this would be the same. When I try the key code there is no recognition at all. In fact the lock button goes up and down as you go left and right. No second key. Locked out for 1/2 hour. Still nothing. My son seems to think that the central didn’t work on the key anyway which makes me think it’s actually a lock issue.
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Hello. Came to start the p38 this morn only to find the battery flat as a witches tit. Without even thinking I took the battery of to charge it. Now. My old m reg p38 can have the battery disconnected without problems. I just assumed this would be the same. When I try the key code there is no recognition at all. In fact the lock button goes up and down as you go left and right. No second key. Locked out for 1/2 hour. Still nothing. My son seems to think that the central didn’t work on the key anyway which makes me think it’s actually a lock issue.
Click to expand...
We all feel your pain, most of us have been here before.
I use the following procedure as per the drivers manual with some emphasis added regarding taking great care and not rushing it AND with a known GOOD battery well charged and above 12.4V

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

Good luck.
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Yea. Appreciate that but each time you turn the key there is no flashing or beeps. I’m guessing the door latch mechanism not working properly.
Ta
Click to expand...
Nanocom time then, unless you change out the doorlock assembly.
Before I got my Nanocom and my switches went I had success with the battery off, key in pos 2 and battery back on trick. Worked for me but is not guaranteed.
 
Mmmmmm. I’ll try that next. I have the wire connectors out of the latch box and am waiting for a earthing selection. Apparently simulating the left right key turn. I just want to get it going and put away in the barn. I will change the latch box at my leisure then.
Ta again.
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Mmmmmm. I’ll try that next. I have the wire connectors out of the latch box and am waiting for a earthing selection. Apparently simulating the left right key turn. I just want to get it going and put away in the barn. I will change the latch box at my leisure then.
Ta again.
Click to expand...
Yes, White & black are for the key in 1 direction; and Red & black for the other. IIRC White black is "locked" and Red black is unlocked.
Good luck.
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Ok. I’m in a late 96 Hse. Wires colours I have are.
BR/GR
PUR/WH
BL/R
OR/PINK
OR/BLA
PINK/BLA
Click to expand...
No idea, mine looked like the document below. The 2-plug one is from early models the single-plug is from later 1999..on models.
 

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It sounds like you have one of the early latches - which have 2 connectors, and the wiring colours are the wires in the door harness

I can't make sense of your wiring colours as they aren't written as the standard colour charts show - but on those specific latches the wiring should be:
Black - to the single connector - this is a common ground for all 3 microswitches
Green/Red (GR) - This is the CDL (Central Door Locking) microswitch. Open circuit = locked, closed circuit = unlocked
Purple/White (PW) - This is the Door Ajar microswitch. Open circuit = door open, closed circuit = door closed
Blue/Red (UR) - This is the Key Switch. Open circuit = key centered in lock, closed circuit = key turned in either direction
Pink/Black (KB) - This is the locking motor common wire. (Polarity changes depending on lock or unlock)
Orange/Black (OB) - This is the CDL (Central Door Locking) motor. (Polarity changes depending on lock or unlock)
Orange/Pink (OK) - This is the superlock motor. (Polarity changes depending on lock/unlock.

I have a test sheet I drew up a few years ago on my website here:
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71

This has these wiring colours and tests/results on the second page for vehicles where the loom plugs directly into the latch.

Hope this helps,
Marty
 
Thank you all for your help. It’s been invaluable. It’s stopped me setting fire to the Range Rover. I am picking up a second hand actuator tonight which I’m told works as he has used the lockout code on it. I took the old one out in the end and found the middle micro switch to be inactive. Let’s just wait and see.
Ta
 
Terry O Sullivan said:
Thank you all for your help. It’s been invaluable. It’s stopped me setting fire to the Range Rover. I am picking up a second hand actuator tonight which I’m told works as he has used the lockout code on it. I took the old one out in the end and found the middle micro switch to be inactive. Let’s just wait and see.
Ta
Click to expand...

For future reference, Marty does refurbed ones with an upgraded microswitch.
 
If the new to you latch fixes it and you don't want the old one send it to Marty, that way he can keep refurbed ones in stock as not every one sends the old ones back.
 
Thanks Brian :) funny you should say that aswell - I've sent about 4 refurbed ones out to people (not from this forum though) and I think I've had one of them back!
 
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Well. What a brialliant thread. It’s helped me narrow the problem down to a dodgy micro switch in the latch mechanisim. Bought a second hand unit of a chap who said the Keycode worked on his. Site enough. Did my code a BINGO away she went. Woop. Long live this thread and all who sail in her.
Thank you
Terry
 
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