P 38 trouble

RangeRoller dt said:

Can be bit fiddly to get the knack give it few tries.
If door lock microswitch has gone it won’t receive your input correctly.

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Tone 68 said:

Thanks ,yes the side indicators are not lighting which I think are supposed to so I'm thinking it's not receiving.

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Tone 68 said:

Thanks ,yes the side indicators are not lighting which I think are supposed to so I'm thinking it's not receiving.

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DanClarke said:

Side-repeaters are not the only option, there is a setting in the BeCM for EITHER Side-Repeaters OR the dash alarm light. So, check if that is blinking.
Failed drivers door Microswitches is indeed the usual culprit. Have you had any "ghost" cycling of the doorlocks while travelling recently?

You have to be very precise with the EKA entry, it is pretty sensitive to fumble-fingered-fcuk-ups.
If you think you have screwed it all up at any point, open the door and close it and start all over again. Then you don't trip the 30/60/90 minute penalty timer.

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

Where in "Essex" are you?

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DanClarke said:

Side-repeaters are not the only option, there is a setting in the BeCM for EITHER Side-Repeaters OR the dash alarm light. So, check if that is blinking.
Failed drivers door Microswitches is indeed the usual culprit. Have you had any "ghost" cycling of the doorlocks while travelling recently?

You have to be very precise with the EKA entry, it is pretty sensitive to fumble-fingered-fcuk-ups.
If you think you have screwed it all up at any point, open the door and close it and start all over again. Then you don't trip the 30/60/90 minute penalty timer.

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

Where in "Essex" are you?

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martyuk said:

If you had nothing working in the drivers door BEFORE this happened, then skip trying to enter the EKA for the moment, and get looking at the connectors in the A pillar (body side) where the door wiring loom connects to the vehicle wiring. They are known to corrode (as do the ones in behind the kick panel, but the door wiring doesn't go through them).

NOTHING working in the drivers door is a sign of broken comms between the BECM and the door outstation. There are some serial wires that go between the 2, which have also been known to break in the wiring loom under the plastic sill trim, but the connectors in the A pillar are also culprits.

The door latch communicates via the microswitches to the BECM, through the outstation. If the outstation doesn't have 12V (Purple/Black wire is outstation feed, Purple/Blue is also 12V but just for the window motor), ground, or there's a break in one of the serial link wires to the BECM (off the top of my head, they're Red, Orange, and Light Green), then you can try entering the EKA as many times as you like - but the switch inputs won't be transmitted. If all the wiring checks out, then it *could* be the outstation that's faulty - they don't fail often though - it's more likely in my experience to be a bad connection or a broken wire. If wiring checks out, you can swap the outstation from the LHF door to the RHF to check that - they are identical.

Once you have the door communications sorted, then as others have said, you have to wait for KEYCODE LOCKOUT to disappear from the dash BEFORE trying to enter the EKA.

Hope this helps,
Marty

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martyuk said:

If you had nothing working in the drivers door BEFORE this happened, then skip trying to enter the EKA for the moment, and get looking at the connectors in the A pillar (body side) where the door wiring loom connects to the vehicle wiring. They are known to corrode (as do the ones in behind the kick panel, but the door wiring doesn't go through them).

NOTHING working in the drivers door is a sign of broken comms between the BECM and the door outstation. There are some serial wires that go between the 2, which have also been known to break in the wiring loom under the plastic sill trim, but the connectors in the A pillar are also culprits.

The door latch communicates via the microswitches to the BECM, through the outstation. If the outstation doesn't have 12V (Purple/Black wire is outstation feed, Purple/Blue is also 12V but just for the window motor), ground, or there's a break in one of the serial link wires to the BECM (off the top of my head, they're Red, Orange, and Light Green), then you can try entering the EKA as many times as you like - but the switch inputs won't be transmitted. If all the wiring checks out, then it *could* be the outstation that's faulty - they don't fail often though - it's more likely in my experience to be a bad connection or a broken wire. If wiring checks out, you can swap the outstation from the LHF door to the RHF to check that - they are identical.

Once you have the door communications sorted, then as others have said, you have to wait for KEYCODE LOCKOUT to disappear from the dash BEFORE trying to enter the EKA.

Hope this helps,
Marty

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brianp38dse said:

So replacement outstation required, easy fix, thats the second one that gone in a few months Dopey`s drivers one packed up so his window would not work.

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