Non runner to be restored

nrgserv said:

ok, the point i'm trying to make, and i've just checked for any paragraph i might have missed, is-
your 300 tdi has a mechanical pump.
your mate has an electronic pump
your mate can recalibrate electronic pumps
you need an ecu to run an electronic pump
your 300tdi wont have this ecu.

unless theres owt else i've missed!

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Snigger

Dr_evil said:

Snigger

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who asked you

nrgserv said:

who asked you

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No one I appear when unwanted

no no no dont add more elctrickery to it ! scavenge the right pump before you have a nightmare

supercharged16v said:

Its a 1998 (I think) Discovery 2,

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Disco 1 second generation, they came in 200tdi and 300tdi variants (and the V8 counterpart).

Disco 2 is the TD5 ono.

Guys, I seem to have mixed everyone up here

From what the experts told me here in order to identify the car, its a disco 1 facelift, otherwise called a 300 Tdi ES. Its an automatic, which from what they told me automatically implies that its got the electronic fuel pump.

Its my mistake really because I didnt know exactly what the car was up until recently, but I thought I cleared that out.

Unless what they told me doesnt agree with you guys.

Would a picture of the pump help ?
I'm quite confident its electronic

If its a 98 it should be electronic

It is a 98.

Have you ever heard of such a problem been solved with re-programing ?

if you've unscrewed the solenoid to remove the internals then replaced it to see if it runs, its a one wire pump.
if its an autobox then it probably has the three wire pump which is part of the immobilser circuit, with the solenoid under a tamper proof cover, often being misconceived as an edc pump. (electronic diesel control)
some manual boxes also have the 3 wire pump.
the 3 wire pumps are controlled by the alarm ecu, the 1 wire pumps controlled by the spider unit.

supercharged16v said:

Guys, I seem to have mixed everyone up here

From what the experts told me here in order to identify the car, its a disco 1 facelift, otherwise called a 300 Tdi ES. Its an automatic, which from what they told me automatically implies that its got the electronic fuel pump.

Its my mistake really because I didnt know exactly what the car was up until recently, but I thought I cleared that out.

Unless what they told me doesnt agree with you guys.

Would a picture of the pump help ?
I'm quite confident its electronic

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yes.

Here you go then

Sorry, but it was a big restricted down there to stick down my chunky phone camera.... but I think thats all you need to see . Yes ?

well ?

courtesy of kingson One Laugh Have It! The land Rover Forum To Be On

Default Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump
Here is my report to the recent changes I've made to my 97' 300tdi auto with EDC fuel injection pump to the standard 300tdi with mechanical fuel pump.

Items required:

- 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer
- standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4
- fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors
- kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto
- length of wire with a space connector at one end

Procedures:

- remove EDC fuel injection pipes
- remove EDC fuel injectors
- remove EDC electronic fuel injection pump (A)
- unplug ECU (B)
- attach standard mechanical fuel injection pump (C)
- attach standard fuel injectors
- attach standard fuel injection pipes
- bleed fuel from system (D)
- attach throttle cable & kick down cable
- done and start commissioning with engine running

(A) :

- remove fan
- remove fan cowl
- remove crank pulley
- remove timing cover
- set crank & cam to TDC
- loose 8mm allen bolt to timing belt tensioner
- remove timing belt
- remove sprocket on injection pump
- unplug electrical connectors, 2 pieces
- remove 3 x 13mm nut at front of pump attaching to timing case
- remove 2 x bolts securing injection pump to engine block, 10mm bolt, 13mm nut
- lift out injection pump

(B) :

- remove plastic securing plug on driver's side kick panel
- lift out kick panel
- ECY is just above all the relays behind kick panel
- use a short spade screw driver, prise out/loosen ECU socket securing pin, then pull down the securing pin with finger, you can then remove the 55 pin plug to ECU

(C) :

- attach mechanical fuel injection pump to timing case
- attach 3 x 13mm nut securing to timing case
- attach 2 nuts and bolts securing to engine block, 13mm nut, 10mm bolt
- loosely attach timing belt sprocket onto injection pump
- use a 22mm socket, turn the injection pump sprocket until a 9mm drill bit can be slotted into the TDC locking hole on injection pump
- attach timing belt. To tighten timing belt, first use an breaker bar with a 6 inch long 1/2 inch size extension. There's a slot on timing belt tensional plate where the extension can be slotted in and give leverage for tightening tensioner. After timing belt tensioner is tighten, tighten the 3 10mm nut on injection pump sprocket.
- check that timing belt is spot on TDC. To check on that, woodruff key on crank shaft should be vertically straight pointing to top. There should be a mark on cam sprocket, that should be pointing at 7 o'clock. Use mirror to check the cam sprocket marking is inline to an 'arrow' on timing case. Lastly, make sure the 9mm drill bit is still slotted into the injection pump locking hole
- attach timing cover
- remove 3 x 10mm bolt on timing cover for the injection pump inspection cover, then remove the cover for injection pump adjustment & commissioning (E)
- attach crank pulley
- attach fan belt
- attach fen and cowl

(D) :

- loosen 10mm bolt on top of fuel filter housing
- toggle the lever on fuel lift pump. If no pressure is felt, turn the crank shaft till pressure is felt
- once fuel starts flowing out from the bleed screw without air bubbles, tighten bleed screw

(E) Commissioning & adjustment on injection pump :

- with the timing belt on, loosen the 3 x 10mm bolt on injection pump sprocket. Then use 22mm socket, turn the center plate on the sprocket to the left, put a mark on the center plate and sprocket, then turn the center plate to the right and mark on sprocket. Then turn the center plate back to the middle. Tighten the 3 x 10mm bolt.
- start the engine, listen to the engine running. If it runs a little rough, repeat the above procedures, and move the center plate on injection pump sprocket either left (advance) or right (retard) to get the engine running smoothly. Do each adjustment at 1mm each time.
- adjust throttle cable tightness as well as kick down cable tightness. Throttle cable should have about 1mm free play when you move it left to right. Kick down cable should be all the way in the cable sleeve before throttle is depressed. Adjust idling screw. Standard idling for auto is about 750 + 30 rpm
- once you are satisfied with the engine running, attach the injection pump inspection cover

Wow !!!!! :what:

So I'm guessing its an electronic pump that I have now and these are directions on how to make it mechanical ?

Why would I do that ? Finding all these parts will be extremely hard , not to mention costly

it was just a ider

i still aint convinced its an electronic pump.
what is on the other end of the cabling from the connector in the pictures?
does it have cruise control on the steering wheel?

Yes there's cruise control

not that I would care if that works or not...

does the electronic pump have wires going to no1 injector?

just looked in me haynes manual
engines with edc have edc injection timing sensor in no4 injector

so if one of yer injectors has wires on it youve got the electronic gubbins

seem to remember the electronic injectors are like rocking horse ****. , no longer made and zero stock anywhere

thought the electronic ones had a air flow meter and no throttle cable?

mark-d said:

thought the electronic ones had a air flow meter and no throttle cable?

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They do !!