My rebuild thread! 3.9 disco v8

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Cleaned up the heads today, gonna drop them off tomorrow to get sorted. was cleaning uo the water pump and noticed very very slight play in the bearing, is it worth replacing it? If so what brand/where to get?
 
put it this way, your doing all this work for it to fail because of the water pump, would be a bummer! the face looks very cavitated so that would also add to the case.
 
discomark10 said:
put it this way, your doing all this work for it to fail because of the water pump, would be a bummer! the face looks very cavitated so that would also add to the case.
Click to expand...

True, for the sake of £40 guess it makes sense. having a look on paddocks now, they have a Airtech one? Any one know what the heck that is?
 
I got a genuine/unipart old stock one. if going new (as yours is a much newer efi motor) I would make sure its quinton hazel mate
 
Mr Noisy said:
Yeah or perhaps Circoli if available.

Better buying one from euro car parts etc and getting oem brand rather than ending up with a britpart :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Yeah will defiantly be keeping away from britpart for the pump, will see if my local indy has one in that he will sell me. He has been helpful for parts previously and reasonable price
 
Dropped my heads off today, he said can collect on sat so thats a good turn around. Gonna speak to real steel tomorrow to get me parts!! cant wait much longer been driving me mad farting about this weekend doing nothing :(
 
Ok

Cooling, first off make sure you have block drain plugs in.

Set heaters to full hot.

Remove plugs from radiator and top pipe on engine.

SLOWLY fill system from header tank with 50/50 blue antifreeze until it comes out of the rad plug.

Loosely fit rad plug, leave top plug out.

Start engine, and slowly add coolant, you will get air bubbles and coolant out of the plugs, tighten plugs when you get too much coolant coming out, but every so often crack open to let air escape.

It takes at least half an hour to get the engine up to temp on tickover and to open the thermostat/get all the air bled out.

When you're sure it's hot, crack the plugs again to let more air out.

Go for a drive to get it flowing, crack the plugs. Always check the level in the header tank.

Then leave it to go stone cold overnight and check the level/top up.

Should be reet now.

Power steering, tighten all connections etc and then slowly fill reservoir. When up to level, open bleed nipple on box.

When getting steady flow, close nipple, start engine and crack nipple again but this time with clear hose, feeding back into reservoir.

You can watch for bubbles and are replacing the lost fluid straight back in.

Once good, close nipple, then wind steering lock to lock plenty of times.

You will usually get lots of foaming and noises now, keep going/adding until the noises stop, the foam will take hours to settle out though so leave overnight.

If too much in next morning, start engine with hose to nipple and simply pump fluid out of bleed nipple back into your container (you can reuse it later if you like)

Gearbox is simply refill with MTF94 (r380) or ATF (auto) and then drive the manual and top up or start the auto and check level when ticking over and keep filling til dipstick reads good.

Engine is simple, prefill oil filter and screw on, dump 5 ltrs in filler hole (make sure sump plug tight), check/adjust level with dipstick and start her up.

Serp engines do not need fancy Vaseline priming unlike v belt engines.

Run her in etc and then rinse and repeat with your proper engine oils etc.

Cheers
 
Mr Noisy said:
Ok

Cooling, first off make sure you have block drain plugs in.

Set heaters to full hot.

Remove plugs from radiator and top pipe on engine.

SLOWLY fill system from header tank with 50/50 blue antifreeze until it comes out of the rad plug.

Loosely fit rad plug, leave top plug out.

Start engine, and slowly add coolant, you will get air bubbles and coolant out of the plugs, tighten plugs when you get too much coolant coming out, but every so often crack open to let air escape.

It takes at least half an hour to get the engine up to temp on tickover and to open the thermostat/get all the air bled out.

When you're sure it's hot, crack the plugs again to let more air out.

Go for a drive to get it flowing, crack the plugs. Always check the level in the header tank.

Then leave it to go stone cold overnight and check the level/top up.

Should be reet now.

Power steering, tighten all connections etc and then slowly fill reservoir. When up to level, open bleed nipple on box.

When getting steady flow, close nipple, start engine and crack nipple again but this time with clear hose, feeding back into reservoir.

You can watch for bubbles and are replacing the lost fluid straight back in.

Once good, close nipple, then wind steering lock to lock plenty of times.

You will usually get lots of foaming and noises now, keep going/adding until the noises stop, the foam will take hours to settle out though so leave overnight.

If too much in next morning, start engine with hose to nipple and simply pump fluid out of bleed nipple back into your container (you can reuse it later if you like)

Gearbox is simply refill with MTF94 (r380) or ATF (auto) and then drive the manual and top up or start the auto and check level when ticking over and keep filling til dipstick reads good.

Engine is simple, prefill oil filter and screw on, dump 5 ltrs in filler hole (make sure sump plug tight), check/adjust level with dipstick and start her up.

Serp engines do not need fancy Vaseline priming unlike v belt engines.

Run her in etc and then rinse and repeat with your proper engine oils etc.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks mate! so if its first start up, shall i just fill with oil and water for first start then leave box(auto) and powersteering until i have run the cam in at 2000rpm for 1/2hour
 
Nope, you need to fill everything, running parts dry is a BAD idea!

This is where it becomes a 2/3 man job ideally, you get one man keeping the engine running (remember to constantly vary the revs) and then you can run around checking for leaks etc.

Your auto box will take a measured amount and then bleed itself and accept more, that's pretty easy dipstick job, your coolant will take a while as will the power steering so you can work through those during the 20 min break in

Of course on first start at high rpm the engine will heat up rapid so this will speed up/add drama to your coolant filling process, but it will probably help you if the thermostat opens quicker tbh

Cheers
 
Cheers , will have to call in a few favours then! just a updated heads are on there way to being done. Should have them by weekend ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21371057187.430825.jpg
 
your lucky, Ive got all my bits now apart from cam and lifters still not arrived from aus but more of a prob is my heads still aint back from the machine shop :(
 
fett said:
your lucky, Ive got all my bits now apart from cam and lifters still not arrived from aus but more of a prob is my heads still aint back from the machine shop :(
Click to expand...

Out of Australia?......that is interesting, whom is supplying your cam and lifters, and what are you fitting, how wild or mild I mean.
I got mine from camtech in Sydney, and gone for the more torque at the lower rpm for my 3,5. Hope I made a good choice, only time will tel.
 
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