fett
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can someone remind me for when my time comes, do the grooved main bearings go on the top or the bottom?
My rebuild thread! 3.9 disco v8
- Thread starter bencorkill
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bencorkill
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Bottom
bencorkill
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***top! They go on block, not the little blocks. If that makes sense, there should be matching holes on the block for the oil feed
fett
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thanks, that makes sense 
rangy35
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I don't get this.........if the flywheel/flexplate is removed there should not be a problem renewing the rear main oil seal, and there is more than one bolt holding the flywheel/flexplate.
bencorkill
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I have removed fly wheel so crank looks like this
I cant get the back plate off, its got allen headed bolts which will not budge i tried for about hour n a half last night
Dr_evil
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should have taken allens out when crank was still in block, makes life easier as you can lock crank to stop it moving then if the resistance isn't enough. They're loctited in at 60ft/lbs IIRC
discomark10
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only thing i could suggest is try put the end in a vice so the woodruff key is stopping it turning.. not ideal mind you
Dr_evil
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They're the opposite to the crank pulley end so if you were to support it in one vice and in another you had a locked 24mm socket you may get away with it that way if not when back in the block get someone with a breaker bar and socket to hold on while you undo the bolts
rangy35
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Ha...ha...ha....that is the front, do you have a rattle gun?...clamp the crank in a vice with wood blocks and rattle it lose. When assembling fit your crank,pistons and rods, cam do your timing, fit the front timing cover and then fit your crank pulley and to lock it you use a pice of wood and put it between the crank and block on the same side the crank is turning when you lock the bolt, then you fit the oil pick up and the sump.
discomark10
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nor do i, Auto?
Dr_evil
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Its the rear if it has allen bolts
Dr_evil
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Yeah rear, I had the same problem on mine
Rounded one bolt so got it heated up with an oxy torch and as the bolt is only soft compared to the crank it just melted and drained out the hole
bencorkill
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Todays ambition is to put pistons back in, put rings in already. I need to double check that they dont have a order or way to go in as i didnt really overly think about it when i put them on the pistons DOH! Also anybody got any advice as to what way to put cylinders in? i did take them out in order, but didnt look at what orientation the markings where DOH again
fett
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if you didnt have it re-bored you want them to go back in the same bore the same way round. apparently we have to gap the rings too, I shall be doing that too when I get some time.
the rods and piston have a way to face too btw, I thing some bloke put noisys rods in the wring way round
the rods and piston have a way to face too btw, I thing some bloke put noisys rods in the wring way round
rangy35
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The piston will have a marking on the crown that faces the front(crank pulley) hope you marked witch piston came out of witch pot, put them back in the same pot.
Rings are usually marked "TOP" you fit them facing the top(crown) of the piston. If for some reason they are not marked look at the shape of the rings the top ring or no1 ring is a perfect square ring(that does sound weird)and can be fitted anyway round, the second ring from the top will have a recessed edge and that ring if not marked is fitted with the recess facing the bottom of the piston or sump, the oil ring depends on the type of rings you bought, if a two pice oil ring it is also marked with "TOP" fit the spring first before you fit the oil ring, if a three pice ring you will have a spring/expansion and two very thin steel rings, these steel rings you must take and hold between your thumb and index finger with the ring gap facing away from your palm, and squeeze gently on the ring trying to well you will close the ring gap but keep an eye on in witch direction the ring collapses, is it away from you or towards you and remember that and fit the ring on the piston so that the way it collapsed in your hand collapses towards the bottom of the piston.
I hope this made sense.
Sorry and the installation is the wrong way round from my description, you start with the oil ring and work your way up.
Rings are usually marked "TOP" you fit them facing the top(crown) of the piston. If for some reason they are not marked look at the shape of the rings the top ring or no1 ring is a perfect square ring(that does sound weird)and can be fitted anyway round, the second ring from the top will have a recessed edge and that ring if not marked is fitted with the recess facing the bottom of the piston or sump, the oil ring depends on the type of rings you bought, if a two pice oil ring it is also marked with "TOP" fit the spring first before you fit the oil ring, if a three pice ring you will have a spring/expansion and two very thin steel rings, these steel rings you must take and hold between your thumb and index finger with the ring gap facing away from your palm, and squeeze gently on the ring trying to well you will close the ring gap but keep an eye on in witch direction the ring collapses, is it away from you or towards you and remember that and fit the ring on the piston so that the way it collapsed in your hand collapses towards the bottom of the piston.
I hope this made sense.
Sorry and the installation is the wrong way round from my description, you start with the oil ring and work your way up.
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rangy35
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The ring spacing should be at 120 degrees, or the easy way like a Merc badge. The conrod has a mark on that has to also face the front of the engine, usually a small dimple.
You can fit the pistons in pairs, I work from the front and work my way back, fit 1,2 then 3,4, then 5,6 then 7,8.
You can fit the pistons in pairs, I work from the front and work my way back, fit 1,2 then 3,4, then 5,6 then 7,8.
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bencorkill
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Cheers, put all in. I have looked at all my rings and none of them have any markings or un square edges :s i duno what i should do
discomark10
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The push rods have dimples that need to face its neighbour.. I added a bit of info on my build.
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