Me again - really need some help...

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The Mad Hat Man said:
ere Kev - is that slot off-centre - or can yu align it 180 degrees out?
Click to expand...

You can align the oil pump drive any way it will fit. I've found the trick is to have the rotor arm attached and pointing roughly to No1 (I work from TDC) then rotate rotor arm back a bit then look where the slot is. Then I check the rough relative position of the oil pump drive and hopefully when you slot dizzy in its hole everything drops into place and the rotor arm turns and then you can get it started.

It's not difficult just fiddly and a right pain when it doesn't go in right first time.

One thing that is handy is to have a piece of 6mm or 8mm threaded rod with a slot cut in the end, that way you can easily turn the oil pump shaft rather than trying to flick it with a screwdriver. Another bonus is that if you have to prime your oil pump you can stick the threaded rod in a dril and spin the pump up without having to take it off and pack it with vaseline.
 
Kev that explains why my dizzy cap is wobbling now I guess... otherwise I'm running.. a little hot but expect (hope) that's because I'm still not firing right..

also got no seal between the manifold and the front pipe so arranged to pop it into kwik fit tomorrow for them to sort that out.. then see if I can set the timing spot on... also seemed to have an airlock in the water.. perhaps I should have changed the water pump.. too late now I just hope it is going to behave for me and get me to my holiday..
 
mjltigger said:
Kev that explains why my dizzy cap is wobbling now I guess... otherwise I'm running.. a little hot but expect (hope) that's because I'm still not firing right..

also got no seal between the manifold and the front pipe so arranged to pop it into kwik fit tomorrow for them to sort that out.. then see if I can set the timing spot on... also seemed to have an airlock in the water.. perhaps I should have changed the water pump..
Click to expand...

Dizzy cap shouldn't wobble, check it is on straight and that it is properly seated. If the dizzy wasn't properly set on the drive gear and oil pump drive you would have no oil pressure and you'd probably damage the dizzy, also, there would be oil coming out of the base of the dizzy because the "o" ring wouldn't seal.

You say is running but not firing right - is it a misfire or just lacking performance. Have you tried advancing/retarding the timing?

At least you got it running, bet you feel good now!

Airlock is a common thing after a bit of surgery. Put heater on max, run engine up to temperature with pressure cap off, when thermostat opens (feel for hot top hose) squeeze the top hose to pump the system a bit. If that doesn't do it, another trick is to get the engine warmed up, release pressure cap then using a ramp or a handy bank/high kerb or similar, run the front right wheel up so the expansion bottle is higher than the top hose, the air should then hopefully find its way out.
 
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yeah the dizzy cap wobble is worrying really.. it may be I have the dizzy back together wrong.. it may be that dodgy rotor arm..

if the oil pump isn't working then I guess that would cause temp to go up as well.. I will have the dizzy off again I think.. it's all marked up so should be easy enough (was that famous last words)
 
mjltigger said:
yeah the dizzy cap wobble is worrying really.. it may be I have the dizzy back together wrong.. it may be that dodgy rotor arm..

if the oil pump isn't working then I guess that would cause temp to go up as well.. I will have the dizzy off again I think.. it's all marked up so should be easy enough (was that famous last words)
Click to expand...

Well, would say best to check cap and rotor arm and in theory you should now be able to take dizzy out and put it back without too much trouble - you've done it once so why not another time!! Just make sure you turn the engine by hand to get the timing marks where you need them to be.

On the oil pump thing, if the oil pump drive wasn't engaged you would know about it. The oil pressure warning light would be on and within very little time the cam followers would lose pressure and it would sound like a bag of spanners.

Anyway, it certainly sounds like you are there or ther abouts, just minor fettling required and with luck you'll be able to go and enjoy your holiday. But do get yourself a proper Lucas cap and arm - not cheap but always worth it. You can get genuine items by mail order from www.dingocroft.co.uk
 
swapped the rotor arm for the old one and no more wobbling.. so will order a lucas one...

Kwik fit in the AM to get eggsauce sorted and then off up some big hill or other to clear the airlock(s) in the coolant system.. found the wire that was off stopping the gas work so can reconnect that and I think I'm done..

thanks to everyone.. there's a few beers I owe it seems..

plus with what I've learnt doing this job perhaps I can help someone else when it's their turn..

thanks again....
 
glad your all sorted!! been readin through the fred and know pretty much all of the problems you've had .......

i've got a V6 that aint healthy and has some of the symptoms you had - wanna lend a hand :D

hope it goes well tomorrow and its problem free
 
mad hat man.. a page back he scanned a manual but it is very different to the RAVE I have and mentions a vent in a manifold (intake??) that blocks causing overheating and needs to be kept clear...
 
I think so.. been out and driven up and down hills a bit to clear any airlocks.. will check levels in the am.. expect it to be a little overfull and not sure how to resolve that without risking another airlock? but I'll work it out...

off to get the manifold to front pipe sorted in the am as well

timing pretty good at the moment but will be out again once exhaust sorted I think.. easy to fix now I know how..

how r u getting on with yours?
 
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