P38A locked out

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Bit of an update,if I've understood @martyuk correctly, I've made this rig up,hopefully try it tomorrow, got out of painting yesterday and today but I'm worn out so taking @Datatek 's advice,only spent a couple of hours sorting the garage looking for switches,couldn't find a jog switch but it should work,I'm buggered now.:rolleyes::) Getting old is not for wimps :eek::D Forgot to upload the photo o_O
 

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tomcat59alan said:
Bit of an update,if I've understood @martyuk correctly, I've made this rig up,hopefully try it tomorrow, got out of painting yesterday and today but I'm worn out so taking @Datatek 's advice,only spent a couple of hours sorting the garage looking for switches,couldn't find a jog switch but it should work,I'm buggered now.:rolleyes::) Getting old is not for wimps :eek::D Forgot to upload the photo o_O
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You will need to give that a few coats of varnish before fitting:D
dont over do it give yourself time to get better, we cant have you going awol from the site , look after yourself.
 
brianp38dse said:
You will need to give that a few coats of varnish before fitting:D
dont over do it give yourself time to get better, we cant have you going awol from the site , look after yourself.
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Thanks mate, at least if it doesn't work it will narrow things down to the foot well connectors.A mates been in touch said he has a spare lock so if the worst comes to it I can break the old one and add the bits to the collection for Marty. Thats the other reason for the clear out, looking for my very long flat "poundthrough "screwdriver, proper bit of kit for the job
 
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tomcat59alan said:
Just woken up after a nap and thought"I wonder if I've got a brake light switch in the garage" I'm sure I had one for a Disco somewhere .That'll do for a jog switch, job for tomorrow. :D
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That would be better. I was looking at your switches and wondering how fast you could switch them on and off. The lock motors are not rated for 12V but maybe 5V (struggling to remember). That's why only a pulse goes as it is really too much for the motor if it was to stay on but it spins up so fast it throws out the little weight that pops the locks. It is also why with too long a pulse or lots of them that seems to happen when RF interference confuses it, it burns the locks out. Of course, not an issue until the EKA in.

Brian's right, you'll need varnish to make it weather-tight. Is there room for it below the handle and above the trim strip?
 
Grrrrrr said:
That would be better. I was looking at your switches and wondering how fast you could switch them on and off. The lock motors are not rated for 12V but maybe 5V (struggling to remember). That's why only a pulse goes as it is really too much for the motor if it was to stay on but it spins up so fast it throws out the little weight that pops the locks. It is also why with too long a pulse or lots of them that seems to happen when RF interference confuses it, it burns the locks out. Of course, not an issue until the EKA in.

Brian's right, you'll need varnish to make it weather-tight. Is there room for it below the handle and above the trim strip?
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I'll have a look to see if I've got any walnut lying around.:D I will practice first, like "fastest finger first " on the TV program. :D
 
Well I've just felt well enough and had the time to give my rig a try,without success, rereading the posts @pwood999 #18 sorry I missed part of your post, I now have key code lockout message on the dash.waiting for it to clear before another attempt. :rolleyes:
Grrrrrr said:
That would be better. I was looking at your switches and wondering how fast you could switch them on and off. The lock motors are not rated for 12V but maybe 5V (struggling to remember). That's why only a pulse goes as it is really too much for the motor if it was to stay on but it spins up so fast it throws out the little weight that pops the locks. It is also why with too long a pulse or lots of them that seems to happen when RF interference confuses it, it burns the locks out. Of course, not an issue until the EKA in. I've checked with a multimeter and its showing 5 v at the switch.;)

Brian's right, you'll need varnish to make it weather-tight. Is there room for it below the handle and above the trim strip?
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, I've had a busy week working on other things so haven't been online much - yet alone on forums!

Just had a quick look at your switched - the on/off for locked/unlocked *might* be round the wrong way. If "ON" is the switch connecting the wires, then that should be unlocked (as the CDL switch makes a connection when the door is unlocked, and breaks it when locked.

The key switch should be OFF (no connection) by default and make a connection (ON) when it's pressed (to simulate a key turn either way).

If they lock/unlock are back to front, then the BECM will think the key is being turned in the wrong direction for the digit you're trying to enter.

Hope it works after you are free of KCL and can get the EKA in!

Cheers,
Marty
 
martyuk said:
Sorry, I've had a busy week working on other things so haven't been online much - yet alone on forums!

Just had a quick look at your switched - the on/off for locked/unlocked *might* be round the wrong way. If "ON" is the switch connecting the wires, then that should be unlocked (as the CDL switch makes a connection when the door is unlocked, and breaks it when locked.

The key switch should be OFF (no connection) by default and make a connection (ON) when it's pressed (to simulate a key turn either way).

If they lock/unlock are back to front, then the BECM will think the key is being turned in the wrong direction for the digit you're trying to enter.

Hope it works after you are free of KCL and can get the EKA in!

Cheers,
Marty
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Thanks for your input Martin, I've just tried again after the locked out message went, no luck.I'll rewire the switch and try that.
 
martyuk said:
Sorry, I've had a busy week working on other things so haven't been online much - yet alone on forums!

Just had a quick look at your switched - the on/off for locked/unlocked *might* be round the wrong way. If "ON" is the switch connecting the wires, then that should be unlocked (as the CDL switch makes a connection when the door is unlocked, and breaks it when locked.

The key switch should be OFF (no connection) by default and make a connection (ON) when it's pressed (to simulate a key turn either way).

If they lock/unlock are back to front, then the BECM will think the key is being turned in the wrong direction for the digit you're trying to enter.

Hope it works after you are free of KCL and can get the EKA swooped the wires no change.checked the switches and in the on and off position there is continuety this is happening with both switches, seems black, green /red and blue /red are all grounds according to my meter thought it was faulty switches to begin with.o_O Good job I haven't got my hot axe here otherwise there would be a 4.6 engine and auto box with 4k miles for sale.:mad:
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@martyuk ,don't know why my reply to your post didn't come up as a new post,it came tagged on the end of yours, see #post 36 any clues? What's left A post connectors and the outstation.For some reason the tailgate button started working on its own i.e.. without my jury rig to allow me to get into the car then it stopped again. I checked the earth point near the rf receiver all fine.Bloody electrickery
 
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