KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion

Thanks for that Hippo. Coincidentally, I just finished reading one of your write ups on another website forum and you mentioned it was from Haynes. I know how I can ascertain that the fluid is between 35 and 45 - Haynes suggestion is the best in that, I know a shop not too far away that sells thermometers with a string or line attached to measure the temperature of water - i'll get myself one of these and should then be set. Oh, and yes, I did literally kick myself for removing the auto box when all it seemed was a mere battery.. But then again, everything happens for a reason they say. I removed it to replace a leaking seal (correctly) and the auto shop applied sealant sparingly and now it has new speed sensors as well as the fluid temp sensor.. Btw Hippo, my KV6 is also an ES and exactly the same as yours, has the front head lamp guards, the 2 racks at top, mine's dark red, and my 1.8 Freelander is black.

So do still have no drive?
If your fluid says it's Dexron 2 compatible then it should work ok.
Did you check the pump pressure?

Hi everyone,

success!!

Wow what difference topping up the fluid the RAVE recommended way makes..!

I got this cheap n nasty thermometer from the hardware with a line or string attached to it that lets you measure the temperature of liquids and water, and I fished the line in to the fluid pan through the filler hole. It stated 14.1 Degrees Celsius, so I started up the Freelander and let it idle for 7 or 8 minutes until finally, the temperature read 38 degrees.

Then I undid the fluid check bolt and no fluid came out, so I started adding fluid, I probably added a whole litre till it started running out of the level plug hole, following which I did up the Allen bolt and started it up and voilla... it moves and drives normally in 2 wheel drive! Wow.. I put it in D and drove it out of the driveway, followed by reverse and same, I pressed the HDC switch in reverse and voilla... the HDC is working..!

I used the Nulon fluid as per link earlier, certified for Texaco N402 and fine for the Jatco.

Well looks like this forum is coming to an end, I'd like to thank everyone who contributed. Although I probably didn't need to remove the Jatco when I did, I learnt a lot of things along the way, and fixed the leaking torque converter oil seal.

I hope anyone reading this on the Internet who is having similar problems with their KV6s will get some inspiration from this and other forums.

Thanks again everyone.

Nice to hear it's working again.

You're just trying to make me jealous!

Nice one! :5bhurray:

That was hard work for not following the manufacturers instructions.... :behindsofa:

ZDomZ said:

That was hard work for not following the manufacturers instructions.... :behindsofa:

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RTFM? ound: :bolt:

Thanks guys, I guess I can expect some paying out after all that lol!

The KV6 shouldn't produce white smoke. Is it loosing water?
I can see Hylomar on the HG's causing problems tbh. The MLS gaskets are coated in a heat activated bonding agent. If Hylomar is used, the bonding agent can't work.
Keep an eye on the coolant level.

Cheers. I'll carry out further investigation this weekend. When I first acquired the KV6 in Feb of 2013, it was driving but loads of white smoke it was blowing and coolant was being burnt. It's not that type of white smoke now nor amount nor the same taste, but i'll carry out further investigation.

I used Hylomar on my 1.8 and runs fine no overheating + no coolant loss + no smoking. Interestingly, I wonder if it could be the white smoke from condensation due to the moisture as it sat under a cold carport? It would have sat underneath the carport for 9x months, very cold place, winter here now. When I finished fixing my 1.8, it sat in the garage for 2x months March + April of this year when I took a break from the KV6, and when I started the 1.8 up in late april when I finished, loads of white condensation type smoke that stopped after I took it for a short drive. Need to carry out further investigation on the KV6 as well, I cant exactly drive it down the street not yet registered or risk getting nicked by police lol!

niccage said:

Cheers. I'll carry out further investigation this weekend. When I first acquired the KV6 in Feb of 2013, it was driving but loads of white smoke it was blowing and coolant was being burnt. It's not that type of white smoke now nor amount nor the same taste, but i'll carry out further investigation.

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It could be condensation. The K series is known to produce lots of it.

Hi all, and it seems it was condensation. Smoke free today after it ran for a few minutes.

Hi everyone, just for the benefit of everyone else, let me advise what the white smoke in my issue was... was either one of these 2, but i'm glad i removed the engine and renewed the liners and big end main bearings, etc, it was either coolant that had been escaping from the inlet manifold gasket, that paper gasket, i didnt previously use any RTV sealant, or scenario 2, one of more of the liners due to micro vibrating became dislodged commencing a leak. In any case, it's been solved. I thought i would post this here for the benefit of others. I'm glad i removed the engine as i found the front main timing belt had been rubbing on the lower timing belt cover - actually sliced right through it! I've since had it with covers, don't fit any on! I prefer the visual beauty of all the moving pulleys and belts in action.. So when i got my engine back, i used RTV sealant on the inlet manifold gaskets, but only at the place surrounding the coolant holes. No more white smoke. No more coolant loss..! Brilliant..! And when i took it out for a drive, i can see it was all worth it. I even made a Youtube video of removing the KV6 engine which i transported to a reputable machining shop here in NSW Australia that have great experience with the Rover KV6 and Kia Carnival engines i can provide details if anyone is interested. Maybe if anyone else has that white smoke issue combined with the tiny loss of coolant condition, maybe first remove the inlet manifolds, both of them, and renew the gaskets and use RTV sealant to surround the coolant holes. I also cannot stress how important it is to properly torque each of the inlet manifold bolts to spec from RAVE or from Haynes, etc.