I would just like to say

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Are you ok with the concept of connecting things up in series and/or in parallel?
I just noticed @Hippo mentioned wiring them up in parallel and don't want to be patronising but you never know!

This is a great thread which explains the benefits and disadvantages of wiring in series, or parallel or series/parallel.

You'll be getting used to the symbol for a diode by now! The funny arrow type thing which shows that the current can only flow one way through one.
10 lamps would prolly be too much for a single series circuit anyway.
I'm going to wire 6 up and try it, can always wire them in sixes if they go dim with numbers 🙂
 
I'm going to wire 6 up and try it, can always wire them in sixes if they go dim with numbers 🙂
To give them all 12v oft yer power yer need to wire them in parallel. All LED positive connect together. All LED negative (0v), connected together. Yer can do it by daisy chaining them. If yer put 6 in series then each obe will get a 6th of the 12 volts. So they will be dim.
 
See the gp, lay it on really thick and get on to allopurinol. You must be gout-free for a month before you start. Until then, paracetamol & codeine with ibuprofen will take the edge off it. My problem is that I can’t use ibuprofen tablets because I’m on chemotherapy and the combo isn’t good.
My brother has been on allopurinol for a decade and it has made life very much easier for him.

Sour cherry juice works well too ...
 
...that now the Central Heating system is up the creek.
One bathroom the rad is boiling, tother bathroom the rad is OK, not as hot as the other but still as hot as would be OK, but all the other rads in the house are cold.
All rads are full of water, bled them and no air came out. bled the nozzle thing on top of the tank, highest bit of pipework on the system, a bit of air came out but not much. Did all this with the system switched off and the boiler off. So no air could be sucked in.
Boiler going full blast, pump working.
The header tank in the loft for the CH has water in it and the ball valve is working
This has all happened since this afternoon's shenanigans with trying to drain the hot water. At least there is still hot water coming out of the tank.
All the gate valves are fully open although one on a pipe leading to the bottom of the tank barely moves in either direction. Never played with it before so do not know if this is normal or not, but I don't think I have closed it then been unable to open it.

What the flip have I done?

The plumber coincidentally came round this afternoon to pick up his cheque. This problem hadn't shown itself by that time but we discussed gate valves, he reckoned that they often played up and you ended up having to replace them with the ball valve type with a decent lever on them as a handle. I told him about not being able to turn the hot water off to the taps. He offered to "have a look" I told him I'd get in touch if I couldn't solve it.
Now it seems this is the least of my worries.

Turned off both the bathroom rads wondering if I haven't somehow got an airlock in the system, but that would seem to be a massive airlock.
Inlet pipes to rads are very hot, but the rads themselves, no. It is as if some one has turned all those rads off.
I'll wait until others heat up and turn them off one by one. I have had an airlock before but it was always in one rad and shutting off others improved it.

Did I mention how I hate plumbing? Give me any other sort of DIY any day.
W has gone to bed and left me to play.
 
Morning All. :D
Bins out, paper's got, etc. :)
I have bought some drugs.
A mate of mine is an extremely fit 67YO labourer and he swears by Turmeric & Ginger tablets to prevent joint pain and the like.
Says when he runs out all the aches & pains kick off again and his hands swell up etc.
Nothing to lose and it is a cheap remedy.
Have a wonderful Wednesday. :D
 
It was taking so long for the cold water to empty from the pipes that I had some lunch.
But went back in, messed about cleaning things up and re-orientated the cold pipe. It is now straight on and perpendicular to where the back of the unit will be.
So then I went off to isolate the hot water.
Can I do it? Can I flip!:mad::mad:
Now it isn't as if I haven't done it before. Right in front of me are the fittings on the hot tap pipe that only I could have put on. I also did the hot tap in the kitchen and the downstairs loo basin and cistern which are also fed from the header tank. (A pro did the two bathrooms.)
There are various gate valves in the airing cupboard which contains the HW tank and sits directly under the header tank in the loft.
I would have sworn on a stack of bibles that it was one of two of the gate valves in there which are not linked to the central heating or power-shower pump.
I know for a fact that I have never been forced to block the outlet(s) from the header tank.
The gate valves are a pig to turn off, especially one which is right at the back above and behind the shelf W uses for sheets etc, and can only just be reached with me standing on a set of steps, while swearing profusely. But I have turned these off and this time waited for ages for the taps to run dry.
Nothing doing.
Checked in the loft in, under and around the header tank, not a valve in sight except the ball valve for the tank itself, and the one for the little tank for the central heating, which are obvs fed from the cold water supply. All this with the mains isolated just in case you were thinking the tank might be fed from it. It isn't.
If this was the first time I had ever done it I would understand but I have done this at least 4 or 5 times before. And the plumber who did the two bathrooms must have isolated it too.

I will try to help not confuse.
Gate valves are carp IMO when they get old they are even worse.
Older systems were laid out so as to have mains pressure to the Kitchen tap/utility room (maybe). The rest of the cold taps were fed from a tank. This tank would also feed the hot water tank, it would enter at the bottom of the hot water tank.

After you drained your cold water was the tank empty?
If not then your taps you drained were all main supplied taps. If it took ages to drain then I would expect them to be fed from the top tank, if this is the case it should have been empty when you looked.

If it was still full then you could have just run a hot tap to feed the hot tank and empty the top tank, as soon as the top tank is empty then no more water can come out of the hot tank as its fed from the bottom and tap supply is from the top. This then would mean you only have to turn off the mains and run a hot tap, no need to mess any more valves.

But yes central heating is more urgent need right now good luck :).

J
 
Morning folks :).

Well is raining today and has been miserable for the last couple of days.
Been doing a bit more electrickery over at friends, 2 lights left to connect but needed a close socket to run a lead light. So thats tomorrows job.
So today is a veg out day and chuck wood at the fire to stay toasty.
Friday is going to be a trip to the big town to renew my residents card, should be a 10yr 1 this time round. So am gearing myself up for all the redtape and different offices to visit, maybe its changed and they will even take payment by card now instead of having to go the bank and pay there then go back to the "grumpy" woman behind the desk to hand the paperwork back and a payment receipt:rolleyes:.

So I reckon after all that and a little bit of shopping, the will to live will have been drained out of me so we will eat out:).

J
 
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