I would just like to say

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Yes, told you I knew little about tuning or the correct nomenclature even.
Let's try "fuelling" instead.
What would be useful is if I had an exhaust gas probe to shove up the exhaust so I could read the AFR/Lambda value at all rev ranges.

You wont read AFR from sticking something up yer pipe :oops:, you need the O2 sensor in the pipe.

You could fit a AFR gauge kit they are cheap & the mini doesnt have a lambda sensor. 👍

You could, but what good would it do?

AFR/Lambda value! ROFL!!!!!!!

In the day the best thing you could do with anything you stuck up the exhaust pipe was a CO meter reading.

This is beginning to remind me about the story I heard of the AA man who turned up to a broken down MGB. Apparently he spent 15 minutes looking to find somewhere to plug in his diagnostic!!!

You basically have 4 things to tune.
Rocker gaps.
Points gap (if it isn't converted to electronic)
Timing, (i.e. by rotating the distributor until it is right)
Fuel mixture and tickover setting.

SUs are designed to give correct fuelling across the rev range which is handled by the profile of the needle. Or needles if it is a twin set up.
There must be loads of books you could buy on it. I have Vizards book on tuning the A series engine, but even a Haynes will tell you how to set up a basic tune. And I do know yours isn't a basic one.
Plug cuts are a very reliable way of seeing if the mixture is correct. You can try using a Colortune but I find they only work on brand new SUs as inevitably they wear where the throttle/butterfly spindle passes throught the bushes on the body of the carb, which allows air past them.
Shame you aren't closer we could have fun with this and I have all the old skool equipment necessary!

I find it hard to believe that you are nearly my age yet this is a black art to you. Maybe you drove fords in your youth!! 🤣 🤣 🤣

I would go with all of what you said, as TBH there's not much else you can do on old Skool, except let it breath in & out then tune to suit:)

My limited knowledge is a bit like this.

So I have an AFR gauge and its not at 14.7? Well no it wont be most of the time, and you don't want it to be all the time.
You only benefit from an AFR if you can tune the ECU to squirt more when demand is needed, then only if you know when its needed🤔. Its a black art. Then you really don't care how much fuel you use;)
(I had a programable ECU on the single turbo RX7 with wideband sensors;))

So back to the original issue.
Catch cans are fine. open lines on an induction manifold may not be desired, where are they?, long time since I worked on an SU powered engine car so cant remember where the hoses go, but they are a pretty good carb and do compensate for demand under loading by design.
If its emissions are fine for MOT (does it need 1?) then its close enough to be good enough.
For the SU tuning not much can be done except a different needle (profiles change).

If it runs fine leave as standard, its a little pocket rocket to be driving around town in by todays standards:D and I bet you get loads taking pics and waving:D.

J
 

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Indeed!

I took my tuned up Mini to a Mini specialist with a rolling road. He changed the needle in mine and got 75 BHP out of the engine, so I was happy.
I cannot remember if he stuck anything up the exhaust, I think he just went by the readings from the rolling road. But I may be wrong.
If you fit one of those gauges then you have a "stuck up the pipe" reader permanently installed.

shed loads available.
This has allegedly been on a rolling road and is 83BHP. But, to me it stinks of being over-rich.
The danger is that you can ruin the engine by bore-washing with too much fuel, burn a piston out if its over-lean at the top end etc. etc. It has only just had a new (to the block) head fitted that is allegedly "stage 2" and I think that was just put on because the old head cracked and it may be the poor fuelling lead to that happening. I think going back to a simple baseline setting/config is the best idea. I don't want to race it, I just want a "nippy" town and country runabout that doesn't do only 11MPG like the Rangie.
I think it is sensible to plumb everything up as per the manufacturers standard(s) and then set the carb back to its defaults.
I have no idea what needle or spring is in there at present and whether anyone has mangled either.
The previous owner has sent me loads of pictures of the car as it went through the rebuild. Many of the panels were so rotten they got replaced wholesale.
1736519646045.png
1736519771702.png

It eventually came out looking like this, which I think is hideous.
1736519913446.png


and so did the last owner so he changed it to this.
1736519975054.png
 
This has allegedly been on a rolling road and is 83BHP. But, to me it stinks of being over-rich.
The danger is that you can ruin the engine by bore-washing with too much fuel, burn a piston out if its over-lean at the top end etc. etc. It has only just had a new (to the block) head fitted that is allegedly "stage 2" and I think that was just put on because the old head cracked and it may be the poor fuelling lead to that happening. I think going back to a simple baseline setting/config is the best idea. I don't want to race it, I just want a "nippy" town and country runabout that doesn't do only 11MPG like the Rangie.
I think it is sensible to plumb everything up as per the manufacturers standard(s) and then set the carb back to its defaults.
I have no idea what needle or spring is in there at present and whether anyone has mangled either.
The previous owner has sent me loads of pictures of the car as it went through the rebuild. Many of the panels were so rotten they got replaced wholesale.
View attachment 333110View attachment 333111
It eventually came out looking like this, which I think is hideous.
View attachment 333113

and so did the last owner so he changed it to this.
View attachment 333114
In that case the needle should have been tuned to the engine. If it stinks of overfuelling that may well be down to the cam.
Simplest thing to do is to check that the jet is flush with the bridge, that the shoulder of the needle is flush with the base of the piston. Then pull the choke out and see if it starts.
If it does then that isn't a bad thing. Let it warm up slowly push the choke in and if it stalls it means that the mixture is now too weak, so you need to wind the jet down until it runs!
Once that is happening, if you rev it and it dies then you know you have yet more fun to have!!
No real sweat.
I've got to go out so I'll get back on to this some time later.
Do you have a dial test indicator? If so you can use it to measure the cam profile, lift and timing.
I can I think dig some of these figures out of my book and I daresay you can find them on Kent's website.
See you!
 
In that case the needle should have been tuned to the engine. If it stinks of overfuelling that may well be down to the cam.
Simplest thing to do is to check that the jet is flush with the bridge, that the shoulder of the needle is flush with the base of the piston. Then pull the choke out and see if it starts.
If it does then that isn't a bad thing. Let it warm up slowly push the choke in and if it stalls it means that the mixture is now too weak, so you need to wind the jet down until it runs!
Once that is happening, if you rev it and it dies then you know you have yet more fun to have!!
No real sweat.
I've got to go out so I'll get back on to this some time later.
Do you have a dial test indicator? If so you can use it to measure the cam profile, lift and timing.
I can I think dig some of these figures out of my book and I daresay you can find them on Kent's website.
See you!
That's very kind of you.
Re: A C Dodd, here is a picture of the AFR reading setup he uses when visiting customers to tune their vehicle. He really does get them sorted. It looks like he just inserts a conical bung up the vehicle's exhaust pipe and has his own captive exhaust pipe and sensor in it. He really does work some magic. The clip is here.

1736526037088.png
 
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