Hertfordshire Lanes?????

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Spitfiremk1uK Undersnd what youare saying and can see the common sense. I do need to get this right though. In the event of a fire I need to deactivate everything before leaving the driver's seat. reaction time of less than 1 second would be about what I am looking for.

Relays would have been my first point of call but my understanding of electronics is limited... Double pole double switch maybe... cutting the power from the alternator and the main battery... but how much current doesthe load from the laternator need to cope with?

Sorry about the vodka induced spelling!
 
Ryder search for an FIA cut out switch about 20 to 30 quid. ALL competition vehicles CCV COMP SAFARI TEAM RECOVERY and TIME TRIAL motors at the nationals run these or higher spec versions. Actually they have to be disabled from either side of the vehicle by a marshall in the event of a crash or roll over usually by use of choke/stop cables. They are the simplest and most effective way to do the job. Personallyy i think a relay would be more unreliable and could weld itself on unless its rated at somthing like 300a and these relays are probably about 80 quid if not more and are not ideal as they are only an on off state whereas the FIA switch has its main isolator and 2 other switches built in. Basically a 6 pole switch. When operated or turned off one circuit is path to ground via a ballast resistor and or bulb for alt protection. The other two break ign circuit and main battery all in a single flick of the switch.

Vehicle wiring products do them but i managed to buy 2 new boxed items from ebay from a private seller for less than 30 quid delivered.
 
Ryder Ref kill switch.

The safest position is to fit the comp spec kill switch very near to the battery itself. Doing it this way will keep the length of unprotected wire to a minimum.

What I would suggest is an additional internal choke cable which activates the kill switch lever. That way you remove all electrical systems from the situation and a single decent pull will kill everything within the time taken to pull out a choke cable!

As Jai has said most comp cars are able to activate this kill switch from either side of the vehicle. A word of warning for those with an alarm though. A decent alarm will panic and set itself off thinking some bad person has just cut through the battery cables and keep going till the internal battery runs down!

Just check the kill switch rating if you are using a winch. They can take high amps for a short time but they get hot real quick at this power level. Winching can pull hundreds of amps over minutes rather than seconds.


http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motor...FIA_Battery_Master_CutOut_Switch/1594/0/14928
 
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Spydie looks like an option if I am out on the moors.... I am a little worried about its performance and reliability (or mine) if I happen to be in a tunnel at the time!

spitfiremk1uk Thanks for the advice. The choke cable seems like a sensible precaution. Whe I first asked this question I believed we were talking about a simple switch on the battery live feed.... now I see that things are a little more complicated.

Activating from either side of the vehicle makes sense too, after all I could feasibly be unconsious if it was in the event of an accident.

Cheers guys
 
Anyone know where I can get an early disco or RR front axle asap Doesnt mater if it has broken shafts or if the swivel balls are Fubard because it will be refurbished?
 
i did but now we need an early RRC axle disco is no longer any good!

Booger it explains above why you need a 6 pole switch to cut the engine out.
 
I have to say that the unit in Jai's post seems most appropriate... like the fact that they have allowed for the extra cable activation too - of course the price is right too which is a consideration .
 
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