Hertfordshire Lanes?????

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Demonbiker not sure about your strop but if its a lifting one its best to throw it away.

Re propshaft find a good s/h 200tdi propshaft, then you need a new 4 bolt flange and may aswell dfo a new seal aswell about £25 the thing you need is a spacer ring or you can grind the beck of the 3 bolt flange off then its the same as a 200 tdi setup getting rid of that silly donut
 
jai_landrover said:
Demonbiker not sure about your strop but if its a lifting one its best to throw it away.

Re propshaft find a good s/h 200tdi propshaft, then you need a new 4 bolt flange and may aswell dfo a new seal aswell about £25 the thing you need is a spacer ring or you can grind the beck of the 3 bolt flange off then its the same as a 200 tdi setup getting rid of that silly donut
Click to expand...

Might do that at some point!
 
Demonbiker said:
What goes in place of donut??
Yes she had a go on a few easy bits/ puddles , didn't stick it in a hedge this time tho!! Lol
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Thats a shame.lol. see you read jais post. Well worth doing. Donut is just for a smoother drive i believe. Plenty of people on here who can help you.
 
Fixed my winch yesterday aswell dodgy earth on the bottom on motor mount. cleaned and all working!! Now I can sell the other one!
 
The donut I think was hitting a a big rock in a bog I was stuck in. Worn the outside edge !
The wife has the bug now ! Wants a winch and snorkel next! Lol
 
Winch here but it may need a new lever not done any work think its only ever been powered up to test.

Check that donut because they tend to be alot worse inside if the outside is ropey. We made MrV take his prop off after a weekend in Derbyshire it didnt look too bad but when he got it off it was a right mess. 3 hours on the motorway with his son in the car he was thankful he took it off when he did.
 
I replaced mine with a new 200Tdi prop from paddocks .. Britpart but only about £70 altogether! I also have a BP one on the front that's lasted 4 years so expect this one to be as good .. :)
 
Britpart are ok not as wide angle as lr std but on a disco you will fet away with it unless you have silly drooping suspension with dislocation comes ect on a swb with a slight suspension lift they don't work too well when on full droop ask Spyderman!
 
Ive got an ongoing problem on my defender. Replaced stub axle on front and fitted new bearings. Kept getting play in it. Stripped back down and replaced bearings. Again slight play in it. Can anyone give me an idea how to cure this. Replaced shells in hub and put lock tabs on as should be.
 
Deffo wheel bearing play and not swivels you can feel will be ok side to side 3 and 9 o clock but poor 12 and 6 o'clock??

Failing that are the bearing outters that you knock/press into hub a very tight fit. One guy had a bearing fail and it knackared the hub. The bearing outters were tight but were nowhere near as tight once down in place.
 
jai_landrover said:
Deffo wheel bearing play and not swivels you can feel will be ok side to side 3 and 9 o clock but poor 12 and 6 o'clock??

Failing that are the bearing outters that you knock/press into hub a very tight fit. One guy had a bearing fail and it knackared the hub. The bearing outters were tight but were nowhere near as tight once down in place.
Click to expand...

bearing races outer or inner
 
If you want to distinguish hub bearing play from any other play then simply have someone put there foot hard on the brakes and that will "remove" hub bearing play. Let go the brakes and you will have movement again. This is hub movement (assuming your wheel nuts are not loose). Check top to bottom play as this is most likely and easiest to check. So hub bearing play yes or no? Easy to decide now.

If it still is hub bearing play then you need to jack up the wheel, remove the drive flange and over tighten the hub bearing ie remove ALL play from the bearing themselves. NOW check for play again using the normal method. I suspect you will find there is still some movement.

This movement is most likely caused by some wear on the stub axle itself and the inner races are loose on the stub axle when checking play top and bottom of the wheel. The wear is normally on the underside of the stub axle. If this is the situation you find yourself a new stub axle is the only fix.

Do this process in order and you cannot fail to find your play/slackness.

Have fun.
 
I now have a car I like to drive again. No more half shaft breaking clanging, screaching tyres, dodgy handling or black lines left on the floor in the car parks.

I swapped out my kaiser locking diff and can now pull into a car parking space without having a crowd stare at me!

I will strip down the kaiser diff and see whats going on inside. It never used to be this random!
 
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