Help with a flat battery and broken central locking

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I've also heard about getting some charge via starter, and that's the plan in any case, Jacking car up + Axle stands and taking a charge from a good battery, just so there's enough to open the central locking, meaning I can get in.

Beats breaking a window :)

Genuinely though, thanks for the advice it's been really helpful

Neil
 
neilb7 said:
I've also heard about getting some charge via starter, and that's the plan in any case, Jacking car up + Axle stands and taking a charge from a good battery, just so there's enough to open the central locking, meaning I can get in.

Beats breaking a window :)

Genuinely though, thanks for the advice it's been really helpful

Neil
Click to expand...
If the battery in the car is very dead, just sticking another battery across it may not do the trick, you may have to charge it. The BECM, from where the central locking is operated, likes a good healthy 12 volts before it plays.:)
 
Also if the lock doesnt work on the key will be one of two things either the micro switches are shot or the lug which holds the connecting rod from the lock barrel is bust or as I have had in the past both the lug usually gets snapped by trying to force the lock when removing it hope this helps
 
I think if you have twin tow-bar electrics and can power up the battery a little, that'd be favourite. Sounds like it is superlocked. A lot of people cut the wire so it cannot superlock. I know I'm considering it.

J
 
My First P38 (a '95 HSE) had twin Tow Sockets, and someone had tried to charge the battery through them, only what they did was strip the insulation and attah battery clamps to the bare wiring......little did I know this....

One day I went to go underneath and check something and moved the wire bundle to one side and shorted the bare wires to the chassis...small spark and a smell of burning later I realised what the previous owner had done...fecking idiot!!
 
There is a non-destructive break in method. There was a thread about it a couple of months back. I don't know whether it depends on volts and it is provided by pm only.

I don't know the method and can't recall the thread. Paging through slowly is probably cheaper than fixing broken stuff.

If a search phrase comes to me, I'll point you to the thread.

G~
 
Problem solved, :)

Without breaking any glass...

Back driving my P38 and also now with fully working EAS too>

Thank you so much for the advice some more helpful than others, but big thanks all the same.
 
neilb7 said:
Problem solved, :)

Without breaking any glass...

Back driving my P38 and also now with fully working EAS too>

Thank you so much for the advice some more helpful than others, but big thanks all the same.
Click to expand...


come on neil let us know the answer how you solved it ,,you never know it might happen to one of us in the middle of nowhere !!!!!! as it usually does ..it would be nice if everyone who has a problem gives us the answers and perhaps we could build up a section on here for remedys ,,cheers mate MOZZ:crazy_driver:
 
I don't know how he did it but here is the promised link to the other thread about getting in without damaging anything. Method is not included, only contact.

G~
 
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