help required for 2.5 diesel 1998 non starter

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al-one-arm said:
i am planning to test it in this sequence. 1. put socket on breaker bar connect to crankshaft and try turning engine over, if that works, then 2, hit starter whilst key being turned. so i need to take with me 1 breaker bar, 2.correct socket 3, hammer 4. 3ft piece of timber.
Click to expand...

Personally I would be packing a bit more than that:D.
Jump leads:).

Good luck though

J
 
Just been out and checked, the crank bolt is a slightly loose 22m, a socket or ring spanner will do the job. I think it's actually 1/2 inch BSF. That's on a MY95 car but I would expect them all to be the same.
About 7 years stood, no inlet manifold fitted, 2 glow plugs and one injector missing, a cracked head and it still turns easily:)
 
al-one-arm said:
i will do. thats the worst thing about some of the threads, they dont tell you what actually fixed the problem. you have to assume the last suggestion was what did it.
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Feedback is an oft missed, but oh-so-vital element...for the benefit of others in the same predicament and, equally important, common courtesy in acknowledgement of the help & advice freely proferred.
 
took a mechanic up there with me.with all his tools.
1,could not get any sort of spanner or socket between the radiator shroud and the engine to get to the crankshaft bolt from underneath.
2,too cold , wet and windy to take the top 2 hoses off , to take the cowl off to remove the thermoviscous fan , to try to reach the bolt from the top.. 3,looked at pulley with a torch whilst ignition key being turned,engine moved a little but as soon as you release the key engine returns to where it started 4, his verdict, water in at least 1 cylinder compressing the water not allowing the piston to get to top.. 5,next step when its warmer and drier will be to remove the glowplugs and see how much water comes out when engine is turned over.
 
al-one-arm said:
took a mechanic up there with me.with all his tools.
1,could not get any sort of spanner or socket between the radiator shroud and the engine to get to the crankshaft bolt from underneath.
2,too cold , wet and windy to take the top 2 hoses off , to take the cowl off to remove the thermoviscous fan , to try to reach the bolt from the top.. 3,looked at pulley with a torch whilst ignition key being turned,engine moved a little but as soon as you release the key engine returns to where it started 4, his verdict, water in at least 1 cylinder compressing the water not allowing the piston to get to top.. 5,next step when its warmer and drier will be to remove the glowplugs and see how much water comes out when engine is turned over.
Click to expand...
That's nasty if there is water in the cylinder that will be a cracked head:eek: HGF failure is rare cracked heads are not.
Did the lights on the dash dim when the key was turned to start?
 
yep as far as i can remember, i wasnt looking that closely at them dave the mechanic done some of the key operating so that i could see the engine move and then return.
 
Last edited:
al-one-arm said:
yep as far as i can remember, i wasnt looking that closely at them dave the mechanic done some of the key operating so that i could see the engine move and then return.
Click to expand...
Sh1t, I'd plump for water in cylinder/s due to cracked head. 27mm double deep socket to remove the injectors, Window socket required for number 4 and 17mm open ended or pipe spanner for the injector pipe.Stand well back or cover the injector holes when you turn the engine over:eek:
 
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