P38A Help needed to get doors open

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I noticed on another thread where someone suspected they had lost sync with the BECM and ECU that they had no "check engine" light come up.
I am getting the message come up when I turn the ignition on.
Before I give up hope of getting it running again is there any common problems you are aware of that could have happen whilst being parked up for a couple of years?
I must also say thank you for all the replies. This site has really helped over the years.
 
I noticed a couple of people mention this when I was searching threads. How do I get them to sync again?
I would love to get it running again but it's getting close to just putting the forklift underneath it to move it.

If it's turning over and has spark, then check fuel system is actually getting something. Pump should prime the system as soon as you turn the key.

If you have fuel pressure in the rails, then get a Noid Light to confirm the injectors are firing. Alternatively get a cheap circuit tester from Halfrauds. In both cases you should see flashing light when the injectors are firing. Take all the spark plugs out while checking the injectors, so the engine turns easily, plus you then get loads of oil circulation.

If it's stood a few years the fuel might be crappy as well.
 
If it's turning over and has spark, then check fuel system is actually getting something. Pump should prime the system as soon as you turn the key.

If you have fuel pressure in the rails, then get a Noid Light to confirm the injectors are firing. Alternatively get a cheap circuit tester from Halfrauds. In both cases you should see flashing light when the injectors are firing. Take all the spark plugs out while checking the injectors, so the engine turns easily, plus you then get loads of oil circulation.

If it's stood a few years the fuel might be crappy as well.

Thank you for the reply. I think I may be onto something.... The fuel pump doesn't prime when the key is turned!
Any ideas why the pump isn't coming on when I turn the key?
 
Given that you cannot confirm the BECM - GEMS Sync is ok or not, then check the following. To be honest I'm not sure if GEMS primes the fuel when out of sync. Clearly spark still works, but you don't know the sync status anyway.
  • Fuel Pump Relay RL12 - triggered by GEMS pin 24 (see below)
  • Inertia Shutoff Switch X135 - behind RH Kick panel
  • Fuel Pump actually getting 12V
Try disconnecting fuel return hose from rail, and connect a pipe into a container. Then with ignition on you should get fuel flow.

Fuel Pump Relay
This relay is fed from the ignition relay and controlled
by the ECM (Z132). It is pulled in on ignition II
position to prime the fuel system. If the key remains
in the ignition II position, then the relay falls out after
a few seconds, precisely when determined by the ECM (Z132).
 
Thank you for the reply. I think I may be onto something.... The fuel pump doesn't prime when the key is turned!
Any ideas why the pump isn't coming on when I turn the key?

The pump could be knackered, the inertia switch connectors could be corroded. Or of course the BECM could have lost sync with the engine ECU. You will have to have a play. Although thinking about it if it is GEMS and that happens it won't turn over. Thor will turn but not start.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I have to shoot off for a few hours but I will have a play when I'm back later and let you know how I get on.
 
I had chance to have a bit more of a look...

The pump is definitely not working. I have taken off the pipe to the injector rail and there is nothing coming out when the ignition is turned onto any position.
It will briefly run when brake cleaner is sprayed into the air intake, so that proves its a fuel starvation issue causing it not to run.
I have check fuse 39 (manual states this is for the pump). I have also checked the big yellow relay is clicking when the ignition is turned to position 2.

Where do I find the "Inertia Shutoff Switch X135 - behind RH Kick panel" ?
Where is the pump power feed taken from?

Finally if the pump is knackered, am I right in thinking it means taking out the fuel tank to gain access?
 
I had chance to have a bit more of a look...

The pump is definitely not working. I have taken off the pipe to the injector rail and there is nothing coming out when the ignition is turned onto any position.
It will briefly run when brake cleaner is sprayed into the air intake, so that proves its a fuel starvation issue causing it not to run.
I have check fuse 39 (manual states this is for the pump). I have also checked the big yellow relay is clicking when the ignition is turned to position 2.

Where do I find the "Inertia Shutoff Switch X135 - behind RH Kick panel" ?
Where is the pump power feed taken from?

Finally if the pump is knackered, am I right in thinking it means taking out the fuel tank to gain access?
Depends what your going to do with the car,if you just want to start it then cut the boot floor.if its a keeper then drop the tank.I had the same problem a while ago.standing for years and old fuel.this wax my pump.
 

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Just to update everyone who helped me out over the past couple of days....

It turned out to be a seized fuel pump.
An hour spent cutting the floor open to get the pump, followed by more time dismantling the pump to get to the actual motor. One tap on the side of the motor with a spanner and it starts buzzing away again!

I had left the car parked up over over a year with an empty fuel tank. I think this must be the reason the pump motor seized as it didn't have fuel to keep it "lubricated".

Thanks again for all the comments with suggestions, I am learning more about a P38 each day.
 
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