Help I've bought a p38 Dhse with issues, I'll never learn!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Small update, as mentioned yep correct the snap on machine was spewing out bull poop figures.
Fired up ye olde testbook earlier correct discs and cables and wouldn't connect so dunno on that one.
Got the Bosch diag out and finally got some sensible numbers! Coolant temp is all good, fuel temp looks normal, start of injection timing is within parameters, couldn't find air temp, throttle position all good, map sensor is reading below atmospheric 850 mbar engine off bit strange but does move about
Few fault codes logged but without description any help much appreciated dtc list?
Currently got a abs/traction fault o/s/f sensor could this somehow cause slowness?
Cheers for the help!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210702_173057.jpg
    IMG_20210702_173057.jpg
    304.4 KB · Views: 140
Not familiar with the Bosch diag and those codes are hardly descriptive.

It uses the average of the 4 ABS sensors for speed so I don't think one failing will make much difference. Try checking the sensor is pushed in all the way and the sensor wiring is all good.

Glow plugs have a big fuse inside the box with the engine ECU but if the glow plugs weren't working I doubt you would have started it. I guess it might have a hot-start fix kit fitted and it is picking that up?

If MAP value goes up when you press the throttle then probably working OK.

You'll need the crank start of injection and the start of injection from #4 injector for timing modulation. Ideally that would be about 50% but again. I don't think it will slow the car down when cold.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Not familiar with the Bosch diag and those codes are hardly descriptive.

It uses the average of the 4 ABS sensors for speed so I don't think one failing will make much difference. Try checking the sensor is pushed in all the way and the sensor wiring is all good.

Glow plugs have a big fuse inside the box with the engine ECU but if the glow plugs weren't working I doubt you would have started it. I guess it might have a hot-start fix kit fitted and it is picking that up?

If MAP value goes up when you press the throttle then probably working OK.

You'll need the crank start of injection and the start of injection from #4 injector for timing modulation. Ideally that would be about 50% but again. I don't think it will slow the car down when cold.
Click to expand...

Got a new sensor to go in, when I get around to it, don't want to spend too much until I know this engine issue isn't terminal!
Is there anyone in the North Wales /North West area with nanocom with edc plug in?
Was looking at manual pumps yesterday hmm tempting!
 
KeepBuyingCheapOldCrap said:
Got a new sensor to go in, when I get around to it, don't want to spend too much until I know this engine issue isn't terminal!
Is there anyone in the North Wales /North West area with nanocom with edc plug in?
Was looking at manual pumps yesterday hmm tempting!
Click to expand...

I doubt the pump is your issue.

Classic Rides North Wales might be able to help.
 
Yeah in the Bmw world you can swap out your 525tds electric control pump for a earlier e28 524 td pump there rare as rocking horse poop to find euro only spec cars. Add a petrol engine throttle cable and pedal off you go. Put bigger heads in the pump and a turbo from a lorry and some crazy Europeans are pushing 400 bhp from m51's!
Don't see why we couldn't do it to a range rover ‍
 
RangeRoller dt said:
You can swap out the internals of the FIP but what works where I don’t know. Won’t be trying that myself :D
Click to expand...

Yeah need specialist equipment to play with the pumps properly.
Been out in the truck today for a hour or so drove really nice up to temp and it was pulling well.
Parked up for twenty minutes, whent back out to reverse onto the drive and it wouldn't move flat out eventually slowly crawled away. Hmm gearbox issue more than engine?
 
KeepBuyingCheapOldCrap said:
Yeah in the Bmw world you can swap out your 525tds electric control pump for a earlier e28 524 td pump there rare as rocking horse poop to find euro only spec cars. Add a petrol engine throttle cable and pedal off you go. Put bigger heads in the pump and a turbo from a lorry and some crazy Europeans are pushing 400 bhp from m51's!
Don't see why we couldn't do it to a range rover ‍
Click to expand...

Someone has. Cannot remember his name but it'll be on here somewhere. Not the conversion but the discussion.
 
Update
Whilst cocking about doing some mot repairs to the p38 the other day, I decided to have a poke into this running issue finally. I Suspected the injection pump had been messed about with before so had a good look at it, found the bolts securing the pump top quite rounded off! It has been off at some point maybe for a leaky seal etc and not put back on in the right place effecting injection quantity mg/stroke.
I couldn't slacken the bolts due to the last numpty so Hammer time... With Engine running knocked the pump top towards the front and it nearly stalled oops knocked it back towards the bell housing until the idle was rock steady at 800rpm and job jobbed goes like stink now presume its chipped. Will try and do it properly some time watching injection quantity on live data etc but 5 mins with a hammer and it's much improved.
*Disclaimer don't try this yourself unless you're a fully qualified hill billy there is a chance of total run away with big smokey dead engine consequences*
 
KeepBuyingCheapOldCrap said:
Update
Whilst cocking about doing some mot repairs to the p38 the other day, I decided to have a poke into this running issue finally. I Suspected the injection pump had been messed about with before so had a good look at it, found the bolts securing the pump top quite rounded off! It has been off at some point maybe for a leaky seal etc and not put back on in the right place effecting injection quantity mg/stroke.
I couldn't slacken the bolts due to the last numpty so Hammer time... With Engine running knocked the pump top towards the front and it nearly stalled oops knocked it back towards the bell housing until the idle was rock steady at 800rpm and job jobbed goes like stink now presume its chipped. Will try and do it properly some time watching injection quantity on live data etc but 5 mins with a hammer and it's much improved.
*Disclaimer don't try this yourself unless you're a fully qualified hill billy there is a chance of total run away with big smokey dead engine consequences*
Click to expand...

Should be 750 rpm at (warm) idle. Someone might have tweaked it to stop it stalling and it might be running a little rich now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Hi, Im Spencer, From Hants, got a P38 that wont go
Replies
4
Views
343
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
enjoi
P38A Down on power when warmed up
2
Replies
31
Views
3K
enjoi
enjoi
R
transplanting a V8 lock stock and barrel
4 5 6
Replies
112
Views
8K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Ashs1
D2 v8
Replies
11
Views
1K
sierrafery
sierrafery
F
P38A 97 P38 Gems - EAS issue which seems to have expanded
2 3 4
Replies
79
Views
7K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top