Hard start after night TD5

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Allready changed that valve. Before it was blocked, now it is good. Maybe problem is crank sensor? Because when i turn ignition on fuel pump works without any whinning noise. But when i change fuel filter it does whinning for a few secs.

I removed crank sensor. It looks not good. It has scratches from a flywheel. Somehow flywheel touched it 1 time. Maybe this is a problem?
 
It might be...though when this one fails, usually it gives u a MIL warning on dash ....anyway if u replace it use only genuine sensor
 
Okey i did some tests, and now have some questions

1) when i did change fuel filter inside it was black coloured
2)when i've been changing fuel pressure regulator it also was in some kind of black thing...
3) when i try to start my car, hawkeye shows voltage drawdown till 9.7-9.9V is it normal? btw battery is brand new (3 weeks) fully charged and it is 105 Amps
 
Protei said:
Okey i did some tests, and now have some questions

1) when i did change fuel filter inside it was black coloured (that's cos air had got to the diesel)
2)when i've been changing fuel pressure regulator it also was in some kind of black thing... you've lost me?
3) when i try to start my car, hawkeye shows voltage drawdown till 9.7-9.9V is it normal? YES. The voltage will drop significantly as the glow plugs are drawing power at the same time as the engine is being cranked. btw battery is brand new (3 weeks) fully charged and it is 105 Amps
Click to expand...

Answers in red.
 
have you checked the fuel pipework. there known for wearing through at the rear. coud be drawing air in that way.

try priming the pump, ignition on and pump the pedal 5 times. the MIL light will light up and the pump will run for 30 secs.
 
Before changine O-rings i did some tests. I removed air valve that placed near fuel filter. Air valve was blocked. Without that valve i found that car starts quite good after night. but only if you let pump work for 30 seconds before cranking... same thing happens if engine is warm , but didnt work for 20 -30 minutes. If i try to start it immidiately it will start but after 5-10 seconds it cuts out. If I wait 20 secs it starts without problem at works fine

Gonna check tomorow all fuel lines for leakage. Possible tubes in tank that connects to high pressure pump are worn.... or maybe it is a head problem.... but why then there is no fuel in oil....
 
Okey i found place where air has been entering . It was in a fuel tank. Fuel linem has been leaking.
 
sierrafery said:
There is an "air bleed valve" within the filter body ...cheap and easyt o replace, worth a try....this one could make u the trick...see it here The D2 Boys Club. - View topic - Air bleed valve purge the system after u replace it
Click to expand...


Please copy the information there and post it here.
Getting any sense out of that Forum is like getting blood from a rock, register, wait till a moderator approves - what a load of C-R A-P !

It is NOT A MATTER OF NATIONAL SECURITY!!!!

It is not even important!

So why make it such a big Goddam deal?

Anyway, if anyone has information about this air bleed valve let's hear it!

It seems not to be listed in Microcat, and while shown on the Rave diagram, there seems to be no reference to changing it or the like.

CharlesY
 
I did change mine i even still have a pocket in which it came and there is written part number. But new valve became nearly blocked after 3 months. So i just removed and drive without it
 
CharlesY said:
Please copy the information there and post it here.
Getting any sense out of that Forum is like getting blood from a rock, register, wait till a moderator approves - what a load of C-R A-P !

It is NOT A MATTER OF NATIONAL SECURITY!!!!

It is not even important!

So why make it such a big Goddam deal?

Anyway, if anyone has information about this air bleed valve let's hear it!

It seems not to be listed in Microcat, and while shown on the Rave diagram, there seems to be no reference to changing it or the like.

CharlesY
Click to expand...

chill winston! leave it out
 
Protei said:
I did change mine i even still have a packet in which it came and there is written part number. But new valve became nearly blocked after 3 months. So i just removed and drive without it
Click to expand...


Now that's the sort of news we need to hear!

Maybe this thing is about as useful as the EGR Valve?

Like take it off, and BIN IT?

So does your Disco go fine with the damned thing removed?

Is it quick at starting from sitting overnight?

One has to wonder how many more bits could be removed in order to IMPROVE the fuel consumption and reliability!

CharlesY

PS - if you can lay hands on the packet please let me have the part number
 
Okey will write down in an hour its part number. Car did start quite fast today nearly from 1 turn or so
 
Protei said:
I did change mine i even still have a pocket in which it came and there is written part number. But new valve became nearly blocked after 3 months. So i just removed and drive without it
Click to expand...
.... and what happened? I just removed tonight this valve! I replaced yesterday and in the morning I couldn start the engine. After a day of trying, I finaly remove it and now it's running, but I wonder on long term, what damage can create? Since when you removed, how the engine is running now?
 
I hope everyone watching this thread is also keeping an eye on

TD5 AIR BLEED VALVE in Fuel Filter (Multi-page thread 1 2)

These two threads are really about the same thing, and they are running concurrently.

In the case of my Disco TD5, it runs very nicely, but it's a pig to start. Why?

CharlesY
 
Charlesy this happens because now it is easy for fuel system to remove air. But after night due to gravitation fuel comes back to tank alowing air to enter. So you need to purge the system. My oppinion the problem is not only in that valve but also in a one way valve. Gonna chck it today and write what has happened to mine
 
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