Freelander 1 Freelander EV

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Nodge68 said:
Thanks for the Update Ali. ;)

I'm glad the activation of cruise control didn't change the shape of the Fl1.:eek:
Click to expand...
LOL, it caught my attention. :eek:
Nodge68 said:
I'm glad those SLAs are coming in handy. I knew they would, as they're a safe and convenient power source.
Maybe it's worth hooking up the ignition switch to a main contactor, so to avoid a potentially issue in the future?;)
Click to expand...
The controller has an ignition switch cable so it would be easy to rig up something to the key switch but the best thing would be to connect the brake pedal to the operate like ebike brake switches. This would instantly cut power when the brakes are applied.
Nodge68 said:
I'm sure you'll work out the battery box. Some body modifications were likely, but I guess the trick will be keeping them to a minimum.
Can you build a box in the space where the exhaust box was, maybe replacing the cubby pressing with a simple flat sheet of steel instead?
Click to expand...

Yes I think removing the fish tank and plating over it should be OK for any inspector, he may not even notice it had been done. The only thing that concerns me about putting too many batteries back there is weight. They would be behind the rear wheels so with less weight under the bonnet (potentially) it could cause balance issues. I'd prefer to put as many in front of the rear axle as I can but I'll take some measurements and report back.
 
The Freelander is designed to take quite a bit of weight in the back, so suspect it'll remain sensible, but yes putting weight in front of the rear wheels is the best option, at least sharing the weight behind and in front of the rear axle is best. A few extra cells up the front, will to help balance the whole pack. Its not ideal having cells in multiple places, but it's all about balance.
Obviously there's nothing to stop you using more beefy spring at the back, to help maintain the correct height. ;)
 
So I spent a bit of time today making cardboard battery modules to see what space I have and it looks like I can fairly easily fit 6 modules in the fuel tank space.

IMG_20210503_173159761.jpg
IMG_20210503_183538498.jpg
IMG_20210503_183652702.jpg

It was very hard to photograph while holding all three boxes but basically the front two are on their side and there is room for another two end to end beside them. The back one is flat to make sure it misses the rear diff and there is room for another beside it. With this layout there is plenty of room for the battery box including the mounting bracketry and cables. In theory there may be room for more modules but it would be VERY tight. I don't want to spend days making a bigger box only to find the diff is hitting it or I can't squeeze in the cables.
I think there will be room for at least 4 more where the fish tank is so I've cut back the carpet and it looks like it is only held in with spot welds so drilling them out is my next move.

So with ten modules (or possibly more) at the back there should be room at the front for the rest.
 
Looking good. Watch out for the front diff mount failure mode. You don't want batteries to be hit by a spinning uj if it fails!!

This came to my attention when looking at why the old fuel tank cradle has a bridge on it. If the uj starts flapping about it prevents the fuel tank being holed!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
Looking good. Watch out for the front diff mount failure mode. You don't want batteries to be hit by a spinning uj if it fails!!

This came to my attention when looking at why the old fuel tank cradle has a bridge on it. If the uj starts flapping about it prevents the fuel tank being holed!!
Click to expand...
Thanks mate
That's one of the reasons I'm not trying to pack more modules in. With the layout I'm proposing there should be more clearance than OEM. ;)
 
Making good progress now Ali. The fun can begin now.
The fish tank has literally 20 spot welds holding it in, the it'll be easy to remove, without affecting the boot floor at all.
There are often so few welds, that the joint often leaks water, sprayed up from the rear wheels, so you'll have no trouble fitting in a plain plate in the same position. I'd actually be tempted to simply stick a flat plate in position using body adhesive, which is pretty much how most modern vehicles are assembled anyway.
 
Nodge68 said:
Making good progress now Ali. The fun can begin now.
The fish tank has literally 20 spot welds holding it in, the it'll be easy to remove, without affecting the boot floor at all.
There are often so few welds, that the joint often leaks water, sprayed up from the rear wheels, so you'll have no trouble fitting in a plain plate in the same position. I'd actually be tempted to simply stick a flat plate in position using body adhesive, which is pretty much how most modern vehicles are assembled anyway.
Click to expand...
Thanks John
I had a look and it seems LR didn't even bother to put seam sealer around the joint which is pretty shoddy. I'll probably end up spot welding it again through holes in the top plate in a vain attempt to try and make it more like OEM. :confused: But I'll be sealing it properly this time. ;)
On the topic of the batteries, I made a video while under the car (I'll post it soon) and after watching it I'm thinking I may be able to fit a couple of the short modules as well. I'll make a couple of smaller cardboard modules and see if they'll fit.
 
Making progress :) Tigerseal is a really good polyurethane adhesive / sealant and is relatively inexpensive, and will be much better than seamsealer + spotwelds in the context of sealing in the plate replacing the fish tank.
 
Jayridium said:
Making progress :) Tigerseal is a really good polyurethane adhesive / sealant and is relatively inexpensive, and will be much better than seamsealer + spotwelds in the context of sealing in the plate replacing the fish tank.
Click to expand...

Polyurethane body adhesives are used on many modern vehicles, specifically to attach panels like boot floors to support structures, front wings, bonnet skins to the frames, door skins to frames and many other similar applications. It's used because it's makes production line assembly faster, with high durability, while sealing the panels to the frame, reducing rust.

Fun fact:
The Hillman Avenger was the first UK mass production vehicle to use body adhesives in key locations, in conjunction with a small number spot welds.
 
Nodge68 said:
Polyurethane body adhesives are used on many modern vehicles, specifically to attach panels like boot floors to support structures, front wings, bonnet skins to the frames, door skins to frames and many other similar applications. It's used because it's makes production line assembly faster, with high durability, while sealing the panels to the frame, reducing rust.

Fun fact:
The Hillman Avenger was the first UK mass production vehicle to use body adhesives in key locations, in conjunction with a small number spot welds.
Click to expand...
I didn't know about the Hillman Avenger, so as Andy said, I'll keep that up my sleeve for pup quiz nights* - but I know Lotus use bonding and riveting instead of welding, not only does the process make production easier and less expensive, it also allows the design to use thinner gauge of sheet metal, reducing weight. My point was that Tiger Seal is an easy to find off the shelf product that would be ideal for this application, might save Ali some googling/shopping time.

*I used to do a quiz where winner had to make a round of questions for the quizmaster at the following quiz, and my wife and I are reigning champions on it, so this sort of nugget of information is a gem for such quizzes...
 
Jayridium said:
Making progress :) Tigerseal is a really good polyurethane adhesive / sealant and is relatively inexpensive, and will be much better than seamsealer + spotwelds in the context of sealing in the plate replacing the fish tank.
Click to expand...

Nodge68 said:
Polyurethane body adhesives are used on many modern vehicles, specifically to attach panels like boot floors to support structures, front wings, bonnet skins to the frames, door skins to frames and many other similar applications. It's used because it's makes production line assembly faster, with high durability, while sealing the panels to the frame, reducing rust.

Fun fact:
The Hillman Avenger was the first UK mass production vehicle to use body adhesives in key locations, in conjunction with a small number spot welds.
Click to expand...
If this was just about which was best or which was easiest I wouldn't hesitate to glue it down but I'm very aware that an examiner may ask how it was done so I think welding and sealing sounds stronger even if it isn't.
 
Alibro said:
If this was just about which was best or which was easiest I wouldn't hesitate to glue it down but I'm very aware that an examiner may ask how it was done so I think welding and sealing sounds stronger even if it isn't.
Click to expand...

Makes sense Ali, a belts and braces approach, as my dad used to say.;)

Do you know what sort of examination the vehicle will need?
 
Nodge68 said:
Makes sense Ali, a belts and braces approach, as my dad used to say.;)

Do you know what sort of examination the vehicle will need?
Click to expand...
My understanding is it could be anything from a standard MOT to the Spanish Inquisition depending on who gets the application and what mood they're in.
I don't want to give them any ammunition. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Polyurethane body adhesives are used on many modern vehicles, specifically to attach panels like boot floors to support structures, front wings, bonnet skins to the frames, door skins to frames and many other similar applications. It's used because it's makes production line assembly faster, with high durability, while sealing the panels to the frame, reducing rust.

Fun fact:
The Hillman Avenger was the first UK mass production vehicle to use body adhesives in key locations, in conjunction with a small number spot welds.
Click to expand...
So that's why they made a Tiger(seal) Avenger:):):).
 
So I had an enjoyable if ultimately frustrating day today.
I started by drilling out the spot welds holding the fish tank, as mentioned in another thread there was zero sealant to prevent water ingress hence the rust in several places on the inside of the boot floor. :eek::mad:

IMG_20210508_120124589.jpg
IMG_20210508_120138633.jpg


As Nodge suggested earlier it was easy to drill out the spot welds and lift out the fish tank.
Once it was out I started looking for possible mounting points for the rear battery box and decided to remove the tow bar so the mounting bolts for it would be available. As expected several of the bolts were extremely hard to shift but eventually I got it off without having to cut the heads off. I haven't decided yet whether to reinstate it or not.
The next logical step would be to start measuring up the rear section for a battery box so of course I completely ignored it and started building a CAD template for the fuel tank battery box. :confused:
So after a couple of hours measuring, cutting and taping together sheets of cardboard, the test box confirmed I had made a major blunder and the design for 6 large modules is not feasible. :(
In theory there is room but it would be much too close to the rear diff and may not leave room for mounting brackets and cables inside the box. So I had a rethink and hopefully I can manage to fit 5 large modules and two small ones but until I build ver 2 of the CAD template I won't be sure.
 
It's unfortunate you're day didn't go to plan Ali, but with the fish out the way, you'll have a nice flat area to fit the battery box.
Can I ask, what depth are you allowing for the battery box?

As the back box hangs below the fish tank, this gives a good 12" or more height available for a box.
I don't know what dimension the modules are, but can they be put on their sizes, or maybe double stacked within the box confines, simply to maximise the module density within the available?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
[15564]-[#altbin@EFNet]-[FULL]-[8mm.DVDR.NTSC]-[032/103] - "8mm.r28" yEnc (18/79)
Replies
0
Views
3K
Mustypwnzj00
M
Back
Top