kernowsvenski
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Freelander 1 Freelander EV
- Thread starter Alibro
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Alibro
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Excellent stuff Ali.
It was brilliant to see it moving under it's own power too.
Oh boy this is happening
A massive thanks to all you guys (if I missed, sorry
) who have left such kind remarks.The thing is I could never have got this far without the help and advice of everyone here so I'm afraid you're all to blame for the endless saga of cockups, stupid questions, questionable decisions and lousy videos with incompetent commentary.
Expect a great deal more of the same to come.
Last edited:
Congratulations Ali!A massive thanks to all you guys (if I missed, sorry
The thing is I could never have got this far without the help and advice of everyone here so I'm afraid you're all to blame for the endless saga of cockups, stupid questions, questionable decisions and lousy videos with incompetent commentary.
Expect a great deal more of the same to come.
More motivation for me
Alibro
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So I have the pack opened and quite a few of the HV leads disconnected so it's no longer as dangerous. Obviously each module can deliver around 300A at 14V so while it won't give a shock it won't appreciate any metal tools being dropped on it.
This is the layout of the modules and Pixie path from pack the most positive to most negative.
Next step is to trace out all the BMS and CAN connections, label them and dismantle the pack so I can rebuild it on the bench for testing..
This is the layout of the modules and Pixie path from pack the most positive to most negative.
Next step is to trace out all the BMS and CAN connections, label them and dismantle the pack so I can rebuild it on the bench for testing..
Jayridium
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Impressive work mate, I feel much happier now you've called it the pixie path. The other day I was soldering new terminals onto a much smaller LIPO battery, I don't envy you working on that system.So I have the pack opened and quite a few of the HV leads disconnected so it's no longer as dangerous. Obviously each module can deliver around 300A at 14V so while it won't give a shock it won't appreciate any metal tools being dropped on it.
This is the layout of the modules and Pixie path from pack the most positive to most negative.
View attachment 235250 View attachment 235252
Next step is to trace out all the BMS and CAN connections, label them and dismantle the pack so I can rebuild it on the bench for testing..
Alibro
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I've been building ebike batteries for a couple of years now so I'm very aware of the danger of complacency. They don't have anything like the voltage but still bite if your not careful so I was relieved to break the pack down to sensible voltages.
Alibro
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You're right mate, it took bloomin ages to trace the path as so many of the connections are buried in the pack. It will be days before I have the pack out and on the bench as I have a lot of labelling to do.Excellent Ali. The modules are arranged in a very strange way though.
Looking forward to seeing it all working on the bench.
andyfreelandy
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I'm sure I've missed this, so apologies, but what voltage is the motor you have fitted? Does E stuff use a variable voltage essentially to control speed or is it more complex?
Brain is still ICE focused and that's probably where it will stay!
Brain is still ICE focused and that's probably where it will stay!
Almost all EV motors are 3 phase electric motors, so the speed is altered by switching each phase in turn. The voltage and current determines how hard the motor can rotate (the torque) but the switching of the motor, determines the motor's speed of rotation.
The Leaf motor runs at over 400V, which gives it plenty of torque, especially if used with a variable gear ratio of the FL1 gearbox.
When Ali drove it in the video, he was using a small 36v Ebike battery pack, and an 800W Ebike motor controller, which is why it moved so slowly, but also shows just how efficient an electric drive can be.
andyfreelandy
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Thanks John, that helps. The motor obviously turns at more or less any voltage which is useful for testing.
You're welcome Andy.
Yes the fact that Ali can use a much lower voltage, and current for testing, is really helpful, and much safer that messing about with high voltage and high current capable batteries.
Alibro
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Correct John.
Also if I use the battery pack as it is I will be loosing some power compared to a leaf. The Leaf pack is 96S so approx 96 x 4. The eGolf pack is 88S or 88 x 4 so a much lower voltage.
I suspect the inverter will be current controlled so the max power will be reduced.
All this is still to be confirmed of course.
Also if I use the battery pack as it is I will be loosing some power compared to a leaf. The Leaf pack is 96S so approx 96 x 4. The eGolf pack is 88S or 88 x 4 so a much lower voltage.
I suspect the inverter will be current controlled so the max power will be reduced.
All this is still to be confirmed of course.
Alibro
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Making a start stripping the pack, I'm taking it slow and labelling everything as I disconnect it so I can reconnect it all correctly on the bench.
That's an interesting construction Ali.
What dimensions are the modules used in this pack?
Is it cooled?
kernowsvenski
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Just wondering, what age is the battery pack? What's the anticipated life of the cells?
Alibro
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I haven't measured them yet John but the great news is they came at pretty much perfect storage Voltage, around 3.7V per cell. and no cooling that I can find. This would lead me to believe they are pretty under stressed delivering around 300A
The pack is from a 2020 eGolf that had driven approx 167 miles so basically delivery mileage.
It looks like it fell off the transporter when being delivered. One wheel was smashed off completely and another was only just hanging on. I noticed the brakes were still shiny and new looking on the inside of the vents with no signs of wear at all.
Cell life should be around 10 years or 100k to 150k miles if looked after properly
This is it.
15 years, or about 150k miles. This battery will outlast the FL1.
I'm thinking Ali might need to convert an FL2 at some point in the future, as FL1s will get harder to fine.
That's excellent, and shows the BMS is doing its job, but on a new battery pack, I'd not have expected anything else.
That's interesting.
Maybe VW have developed a heat tolerant battery? Or maybe it's simply too large a capacity to be stressed in this application.
Are you going to find some more cells, to increase its voltage?
Alibro
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I haven't decided whether to buy more or not yet John. I would need two of the 4S modules and they are going for over £500 each so if I can manage it another way I will.
Another option is to purchase the second pack from EVBreakers, break it up and sell the bits I don't need but that would be a big financial risk.
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